V8 4Runner PCV valve replacement with pics

Did this yesterday just for kicks. Old one had gunk in the bottom but looked brand new otherwise. Clicked the same and check valve operated the same as the new one. Doubt I'll see any change from this but it's crossed off the list.
 
Does anyone have the toyota part number for the PCV hose?

The rubber feels stiff and brittle and the connection seems loose.
 
Check out my old PCV valve and the problem I'm having...I believe it might be for lack of changing PCV... I would do a new one, not hard at all...need a 22mm wrench to unscrew it. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/233449-need-help-water-oil.html#post2614829

The PCV fails because it is dirty and clogged not because anything inside breaks.

I cleaned my PCV often so it'll never get to this point.

In any case, I ordered a new one anyway and also have replaced the PCV hose since it is loose.

Part number for the hose if anyone needs it is 12261-50070 for the V8 with VVTI. The Non-VVTI uses 12261-50050. Costs about $15 plus shipping.

If you want to go generic route you can get a crankcase ventilation hose at any autoparts store for about $3-4 and cut to length. I found the inner diameter 11/32 fits well. The difference is the factory comes pre-bent and insulated. :thumb:
 
Tried removing the old valve tonight, but it wouldn't budge and I was too worried to give it too much pressure.

Anyone else experience this?
 
Tried removing the old valve tonight, but it wouldn't budge and I was too worried to give it too much pressure.

Anyone else experience this?

Yes. I couldn't get mine out with a wrench. I ended up breaking the plastic elbow off and then used a deep well socket with a long breaker bar.
 
The title is pretty self explanatory, replacing the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve on my 2004 V8 4Runner. This took maybe 5 minutes with the part and tools ready. This was the original valve too...yuck. I got the valve on Amazon for under ten bucks.

All you do is pull off the rubber hose and a small rubber shroud around the valve, set it aside. Use a wrench or pliers to loosen the old valve. Wipe off any residue around the hole, trying not to let any crud fall in. Next, screw in the new valve. I believe the torque specs are 20 ft/lbs torque. Replace the shroud, the hose, and bingo...that's it.

I did thread the new valve more than it looks. The only tool you need is a wrench or even some channel lock pliers. It was a little tough getting the old one off, but leverage helped. Anti seize may not be a bad idea for the new threads.

I ordered the same blue replacement as you from Amazon, but had some brown substance on the threads. How far did you thread the new valve in?
I feel like I could have kept turning it, but then the hose wouldn't have lined up, I got it to a little past the original position ('straight out'). Should I not go past there, back it out a bit? It was very hard to screw in as well...
 
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I know that PCV's are cheap but can't we just clean it out with some brake cleaner and if it rattles fine, then stick it back in?
 
I ordered the same blue replacement as you from Amazon, but had some brown substance on the threads. How far did you thread the new valve in?
I feel like I could have kept turning it, but then the hose wouldn't have lined up, I got it to a little past the original position ('straight out'). Should I not go past there, back it out a bit? It was very hard to screw in as well...

Yeah, mine was difficult the whole time too. Both removing the old one and putting in the new one in. The new one that I put in had thread locker on it, I assume that is why it was so tight. I put mine back the way the old one was facing.
 
Changed mine today!

168k miles and still rattles. Should have gotten to it sooner, but it never crossed my mind. Thanks for the reminder!
 

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Thanks for this write-up. Ordering the Hose and Valve right now. Does anyone know if there are any other components worth replacing in this system? Noticing a few cracks in some of the vacuum hoses surrounding.
 

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