Valve Cover Gasket is leaking oil....

We're painting a 4runner at my bud's place in Tempe next Monday. If you bring it by there, we should be able to help you tackle it in between coats.

Ok, I work from 8:30am-6:30pm Mondays, Wednesdays, and 8:30am-4pm Fridays. Tuesday/Thursdays I'm at ASU. So, pretty much my only free/homework time is Saturdays and Sundays. Sometime this week hopefully I'm going to take it to a dealership to get a full inspection as I just bought it, and see what all they say I need. Then I'll see if we can connect sometime in the near future?

Let me know what you think.

And I really appreciate the help!
 
Ok, I work from 8:30am-6:30pm Mondays, Wednesdays, and 8:30am-4pm Fridays. Tuesday/Thursdays I'm at ASU. So, pretty much my only free/homework time is Saturdays and Sundays. Sometime this week hopefully I'm going to take it to a dealership to get a full inspection as I just bought it, and see what all they say I need. Then I'll see if we can connect sometime in the near future?

Let me know what you think.

And I really appreciate the help!
Leaking valve gaskets aside, what issues does the truck have currently? And if you don't know technical issues it has, describe some symptoms to me.
 
Leaking valve gaskets aside, what issues does the truck have currently? And if you don't know technical issues it has, describe some symptoms to me.

No symptoms whatsoever, except a very short, like momentary squeal when I start it. Pre. owner said Toyota told him he needs a serpentine belt so I'm pretty sure that's what that is. But there is enough oil around the oil pan and rear main that it has an ever ready to fall drop of oil sitting there. But no drops where its parked (That skid plate is there tough so...). I found a price quote in the folder the prev. owner gave me for the valve cover gaskets, from Toyota, and it doesn't say anything about the main or oil pan leaking, but the seepage around the valve covers doesn't seem severe enough for what I'm seeing underneath around the rear of the engine and the oil pan. I may make it sound like it's an oil disaster under there but it's not that bad. Other than that the truck is beautiful. Had the timing belt, water pump, etc. done at 61,000. 161,000 now is it due for a new timing belt? But interior, exterior and operation seems flawless.
 
No symptoms whatsoever, except a very short, like momentary squeal when I start it. Pre. owner said Toyota told him he needs a serpentine belt so I'm pretty sure that's what that is. But there is enough oil around the oil pan and rear main that it has an ever ready to fall drop of oil sitting there. But no drops where its parked (That skid plate is there tough so...). I found a price quote in the folder the prev. owner gave me for the valve cover gaskets, from Toyota, and it doesn't say anything about the main or oil pan leaking, but the seepage around the valve covers doesn't seem severe enough for what I'm seeing underneath around the rear of the engine and the oil pan. I may make it sound like it's an oil disaster under there but it's not that bad. Other than that the truck is beautiful. Had the timing belt, water pump, etc. done at 61,000. 161,000 now is it due for a new timing belt? But interior, exterior and operation seems flawless.

Oh yeah and the serpentine belt (?) squeal is only when it was cold (AZ cold lol) last night.
 
Oh yeah and the serpentine belt (?) squeal is only when it was cold (AZ cold lol) last night.

My choice to buy this 2000 for 3,000 less than the 04 was that with maybe 1500 I can do everything needed to hopefully make this runner my daily driver up to 300k and I heard there's a 500k club for these things that peeks my interest.
 
Wow.

So I went to toyota of charlotte today to get a oil change and they said my Valve Cover Gasket was leaking oil....Is this a big deal? Is it hard to change myself? They wanted $670.00 to do the job!

Crazy money for a relatively easy job. This is really common. If you don't see any oil on the driveway and you don't smell burning oil from time to time, I'd start with a tightening of the valve cover bolts. If I remember, the torque spec for the bolts is "in lbs" so don't crank them down too much.
If you believe you need to replace the gaskets, this isn't a hard job, even if you don't have a garage. To do it right, its an afternoon. And a couple of beers. I ordered Feltpro gaskets from RockAuto (with the spark plug tube seals-- this is a must) and 3 intake gaskets: 1 throttlebody gasket and 2 plenum gaskets. These gaskets aren't essential but it's a good idea to prevent vacuum leaks (the TB gasket will most likely need replacing and I found my lower plenum gasket wasn't great. None of this is expensive--- I think I spent maybe $40-50. Also, replace the sealant around the halfmoons at the rear of the heads. Yes, you have to remove the TB and plenum halves (and coil packs) but this isn"t a problem. Once you remove the plenum, place a clean cloth over the manifold so you don't drop any debris down into the engine. Take your time, clean the mating surfaces, remove the halfmoons and replace the sealant (I put sealant around the bolt holes and rear mating surfaces as well--- not too much), I also spent 30min cleaning the valve covers as well.
Don't skip the spark plug tubes because if they leak it can cause arcing (some else mentioned this). They are a fiddle to remove from the covers (observe how they're installed in the VC's) and ensure you don't install them upside down.
Every job you do successfully will help build confidence for the next job--- and you'll save cash... to spend on upgrades possibly! Or maybe do the TB/WP job. Sounds like it maybe time... from the above post... and it seems you have some help! By the way, the 4Runner is one of the nicest trucks to work on--- very well designed and laid out..... except maybe replacing the starter!! That's another story!! Take care and good luck!
 
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No symptoms whatsoever, except a very short, like momentary squeal when I start it. Pre. owner said Toyota told him he needs a serpentine belt so I'm pretty sure that's what that is. But there is enough oil around the oil pan and rear main that it has an ever ready to fall drop of oil sitting there. But no drops where its parked (That skid plate is there tough so...). I found a price quote in the folder the prev. owner gave me for the valve cover gaskets, from Toyota, and it doesn't say anything about the main or oil pan leaking, but the seepage around the valve covers doesn't seem severe enough for what I'm seeing underneath around the rear of the engine and the oil pan. I may make it sound like it's an oil disaster under there but it's not that bad. Other than that the truck is beautiful. Had the timing belt, water pump, etc. done at 61,000. 161,000 now is it due for a new timing belt? But interior, exterior and operation seems flawless.

Yeah, you would be due for timing belt and water pump. You could tackle it all at once, or just split it up. I could possibly help as I just did mine, and the 5VZ is pretty easy to do compared with others I've done. Just depends on timing. If you are making good time, you can get the timing belt done in 4 hrs.

I got my kit from AirCabinMan on eBay, all OEM parts, then all my incidentals like crank pulley bolt, antifreeze, etc from Camelback Toyota.

I got a whole bunch of specialty tools to help with the job as well like seal puller, in-lb torque wrench (which you will need for the valve cover gaskets), spill-free funnel, swivel metric sockets. I also have professional air tools if [MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION] has access to air.
 
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It's kind of a pain in the ass, the plastic wire harness broke apart, it was difficult getting the rear half moons out, some bolts are hard to reach, getting the grommets out of the covers was a pain in the ass, and my OCD made me want to clean off the covers and under the intake which took a long time.
 
Pair of needle nose pliers and my half moons came right out with ease. My pastic wire harness broke also, i just wrapped it up. As long as you dont drop a half moon down the oil return, its a days work, not to hard by any means.
 
I just did the valve cover gasket replacement 3 days ago. It's not hard but it's time consuming especially if you do like I did and write down the steps you took to take things apart and also took pictures for reference later if you get confused putting it back together. I also labeled hoses and electrical connections to make reassembly much more straight forward. I used the write-ups on this forum as a reference and then went for it. Most of the oil coming down looked to be from the back of the valve covers so I suspected either my cam plugs or the rear half moons were leaking. Some people said they put RTV on the cam plugs themselves but I decided not to since the FSM didn't mention putting any on the plug itself. I used a pair of channel locks wrapped with some tape to remove the half moons and they came out fairly easily but one side of each head is harder to get a grip on the half moon due to spacing. The driver side valve cover was the harder side due to the wiring loom in the way, and like others reported, the plastic harness for the wires was brittle and cracked in a few places when I was wrenching on it to get the valve cover out and in. I just reinforced the plastic wiring loom with some metal tape like you use for heating duct work and it looks like it will be fine. I put RTV on all the areas of the head the FSM suggested and reinstalled them with the new valve cover bolt washers. I also did the spark plug tube grommets and used the FSM recommendation of deforming the grommet by pounding it from one side with a screw driver and hammer and then prying it out. I bent the little retaining tabs out of the way, installed the new ones with a 32mm socket as suggested in the FSM, bent the tabs back down and it was pretty easy. No cursing required.

I've never owned a torque wrench. I just use the appropriate amount of force based off the bolt or nut size and use common sense knowing the properties of leverage. If I'm tightening smaller bolts, I use a 3/8" drive and I choke up of the ratchet to reduce how much leverage I have with the tool. For bigger bolts, I use a 1/2" drive and may use all the leverage I can get from the ratchet. I think if I was building an engine or something more critical, I would probably invest in a good torque wrench, but so far, I've done pretty well just by feel and I haven't busted bolts off. Things have stripped on me before but I think that was more from the threads being bad than from me over-tightening something. For the valve covers, I choked up on my 3/8" drive and I slowly tightened the bolts using a crossing pattern until they were all cinched up fairly tight. I honestly don't understand how you could crack the valve cover unless there was some type of gap between the cover and the head by tightening down one side completely and then trying to tighten the other side causing a flexing off the metal. If you tighten the bolts down evenly, I would think you would break the bolt before cracking the valve cover, because the bolts are fairly small.

The job took me around 8 hours. Much longer than others reported, but like I said, I took my sweet time writing down all the steps I took and taking pictures also. Using my notes, I reversed the procedure and crossed off things on the list as I put them back together so I wouldn't miss anything. In addition, I drew a diagram of the spark plug wire configuration, noted the configuration of the bolts and nuts that came off the upper and lower plenums and also labeled the other bolts and nuts that came off so I wouldn't be guessing where they went later.

So, in a very drawn out way, I'm saying you can definitely do this is you are mildly mechanically inclined and have the patience to take the necessary steps like I did to make the process much more straight forward and eliminate any guesswork. These Toyota forums are awesome and have saved me a lot of money. The parts for this job ran me around $130 on-line. I bought the two valve cover gaskets, 2 cam plugs, 2 plenum gaskets, the 16 valve cover bolt washers, and the six spark plug tubes grommets. It took me a while to finally generate the motivation to tackle this job and I'm glad I finally rose to the challenge. Out of curiosity, I got a couple quotes for this job, one from a Toyota dealership and one from an reputable shop specializing in Toyota repairs. The dealer quoted me around $1000 and the other shop was $650. I'm guessing if I shopped around, I probably would find a shop willing to do it for much less too.

The money savings doing this job was great, but more importantly, the sense of accomplishment doing your own repairs and the confidence you gain to take on future repairs is definitely worth more.
 
I scored a 3/8" 20-250 in-lb Gear Wrench Torque Wrench for $40 on eBay. It's very nice, and I used it to torque down my water pump, and idler pulleys when I did my timing belt. You can get a good one off Amazon for about the same.
 
Do not overtighten!

The torque specs for the cover bolts are about 7 foot pounds. Most torque wrenches in foot pounds arent sensitive enough to register below 10 pounds. The Haynes manual says it best. HAND TIGHTEN as much as possible, then give it another 180 turn on the wrench. THATS IT.

My first attempt failed at stopping the leak because I overtightened, and backing off the bolts just made the leak worse because the gaskets were messed up. Had to take it to the shop b/c I ran out of time, they did it for 250 for the driver side (the only side I needed done).
 
The torque specs for the cover bolts are about 7 foot pounds. Most torque wrenches in foot pounds arent sensitive enough to register below 10 pounds. The Haynes manual says it best. HAND TIGHTEN as much as possible, then give it another 180 turn on the wrench. THATS IT.

My first attempt failed at stopping the leak because I overtightened, and backing off the bolts just made the leak worse because the gaskets were messed up. Had to take it to the shop b/c I ran out of time, they did it for 250 for the driver side (the only side I needed done).

Well, according to the Haynes manual, I definitely overtightened the bolts then. I know I didn't crack the valve covers because I tightened them down evenly and didn't hearing any type of snapping or breaking sound. One thought that I have is the reason why so many find their valve cover bolts hand tight is because the torque specs are so low to begin with. As the rubber ages on the washers and the valve cover gasket itself ages and possibly shrinks a little, the bolts become loose. I'm thinking because I tightened mine more, I'll have better luck with them staying tight and keeping a better seal over time. If I did screw up, I guess I'll just get the chance to do the whole thing again. The one thing I am worried about is maybe I deformed the gaskets too much and there will be a leak but I'm guessing it's going to be fine. I've driven the vehicle a little since the repair and no sign of leaks anywhere. Like I said in my earlier post, I think the main culprit for my leak was either coming from the rear half moons and/or the cam plugs. I reached my hand behind both heads and came up with no oil on my hands so that was definitely a good sign. Just out of curiosity, I tested the tightness of a couple of the bolts while choking up on the 3/8" ratchet and the bolts were super easy to turn. Much of the resistance you feel while tightening the bolts down must be due to the valve cover gasket and rubber on the bolt washers compressing down. After a little time, the rubber settles in place and the bolt tightness lessens. Anyway, time will tell if the repair holds up. I hope I don't have to redo this repair because that was a lot of work.
 
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Theres not actually a gasket for the half moons themselves or cams, you put a crap ton of high temp oil rtv on them and push them back in.
 
What exactly are the half moons and cam plugs on the rear of the head? I'm looking at the valve cover gasket set seen here: 95 04 Toyota 4Runner Tacoma T100 Tundra 3 4L 5VZFE DOHC Valve Cover Gasket Set | eBay

Are the half moons and cam plugs included in this set? If not how do I find them?

Thanks,
Nate

The 1/2 moons are metal. You scrape them off and use RTV. The cam plugs are rubber, located on the back of the head. It may be tough getting them out. Find out where it is for sure leaking, and go from there. I would get parts from Camelback, or Fel-Pro from Napa. I would not use a no-name brand off eBay.
 

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