Valve Cover Gasket

My valve cover was leaking a bit also and I had figured that I would need a major repair day to replace the gasket, and probably the other seals as well. But after reading the posts on tightening the valve cover bolts, I checked on mine. I was appalled that I could turn the bolts by hand. They were that loose. Tightened them all down "three-finger snug" since I dont have a torque wrench. Thanks for the great tip.
 
I also just checked my bolts and everyone was loose to where i could turn it by hand. tightened them all down and when i get time i will clean where all the oil has gone. thanks for the tip
 
I wasn't wrenching on it hard, just using a socket wrench to get it in and then go back and torque it. It's strange how easily it seems have snapped. That bolt was troublesome coming out, like it may have been cross-threaded.

I'm waiting to hear from a friend who's got a better extractor kit. Will keep y'all posted.
 
man that sucks. this is the risk factor with the do it yourself approach. I would consider towing it to a shop so it can properly extracted.
 
Once you can get the extractor to bite, then it should not be that hard in theory. But it takes patience.

Get another bolt via the dealer and see how well it threads in by hand once you have the old one out before any wrench or socket touches it.
 
Yeah I called in a favor with a friend who deals with this kind of stuff daily. Even with the headaches and delays, I'm glad to do it myself. This is as deep as I've gone into my 4Runner's engine and have learned a lot. I'm lucky to have a patient wife willing to go without her truck for going-on two weeks now, just so I can beat my chest and save $300.
 
Ended up towing it to a shop and had it extracted, they drilled and re-threaded it. I picked it up the next day and finished up the reassembly. Following write-ups and the FSM, I think this was a very doable job with a worst-case hurdle.
 
I hope it was not too much $$$ out of the pocket. In the end, you still saved $$$ and gained some good working knowledge.

My niece is going to Auburn for vet school. She is mad that Auburn is picked 5th in the SEC West.
 
They charged an hour of labor, friend of a friend discount. You're right, I save a couple hundred doing it myself, and gained invaluable experience.

Sounds like you're niece is incredibly smart... going to be a vet and more importantly, an Auburn fan :D We lost a lot of big time players with not much depth to back it up, this season should be interesting.
 
not sure if i missed it but does anyone has a list of parts to replace or recommended to be replaced while doing this job?
 
Here is one from the folks over at YT: I have not been around the campfire long enough here to know of a good post on VC changing on this board.

5vzfe leaky valve covers fixed (56k beware) - Page 2 - YotaTech Forums

Replace the cam plug seals as well. One on each side in the back. Let me know if you need the part#.

I swear by the toyota FIPG but others have used the grey RTV with good results for the half moons.

Make it a day, make sure to have the right tools, and enjoy.

ok. alot of abbreviations throughout. what is fipg for those that don't know like me.
 
after looking at this, i think i am going to pull my intake so that I can get to all the VC bolts and tighten them down a little.
 
I found this bolt sheared while doing my valve covers, what does it do?



Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Back side of the driver's side? It's the bolt that holds the cap for the cam plug (that you'd normally be replacing when doing valve covers). That'd be an easy fix, remove the other bolt, remove the cap and plug, then use vise-grips to twist out the stud. If it's not coming easily, apply some heat, give it a fair hit with a hammer (straight down ~ closer to a tap than a full on hit), and try remove again. Generally, those kinds of fasteners come out easily.

Have to wonder why it's sheared... main thoughts are the prior mechanic over-torqued and it snapped, but they couldn't be bothered to fix. Or the prior mechanic cross-threaded while trying to reinstall with an air/electric ratchet... that'd be more of a PITA to fix as you'd need to try and fix the threads (might just chase out with a tap, might need a *zert thread insert).
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,087
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top