Vibration frustrations

durrell

New member
I have tried new tires and a balance and the vibration remains. The steering wheel doesn't shake or vibrate much and it's not in the brakes, but it DOES vibrate a little worse when I brake. It is most prevalent above 60 MPH, and gets really bad between 65-75.

Can anyone shed some light on this? It's driving me nuts.
 
Register to hide this ad
Have you replaced your tie rods ever? Mine did the same thing at highway speeds for a while and I finally figured out I needed to replace my tie rods. Now there isn't any shaking at all and it wasn't too much to get 'em replaced
 
I have the same problem I just replaced the front sway bar links and bushings that wasn't it I think I need an alignment though, it may also by the steering bushings, but tie rods are next to check out. my truck kinda moves to the side when I'm on unlevel road on the freeway..
 
Nope. Never been replaced. That was my suspicion, as well as my dad's, but I wanted to see if anyone else had any insight. I'll be replacing them as soon as possible, then. I have new steering bushings, I've just not been able to get them installed yet.
 
Last edited:
I may need both inners and outers. The inners aren't visible, they're inside the boots of the steering rack. Do them at the same time as the rack bushings.
 
How hard are they to replace? I've got the main support bushing already replaced, but the other two smaller bushings I've yet to get to.
 
On a scale of 1-10, I'd say rack bushing are a 7. Mine were a pain. I used a c-clamp and a big socket (can't remember what size) to get the metal bushings in/out and it was still not easy. The TREs weren't bad, they went quick. Get an alignment afterwards if you do your TREs and/or upper or lower ball joints.
 
Oh trust me, I know the bushings are a pain. That's why the 2 on the end haven't been changed yet. I worked on them for two days and never got them out because I couldn't get the rack far enough back.

Do the ball joints need to be replaced at 160k or are they pretty good? I just want to knock out as much of this vibration as possible since this is my daily driver. I'm eventually going to lift it and put 285's on it, but not for a little while.
 
Tie rods are a very strong component of the steering system for obvious reasons so tie rods are unlikely to cause a vibration issue, but misalignment definitely is. The tie rods are replaced usually because they seize, or more obviously, when bent or broken (serious impact to cause this). If they are seized then a mechanic can't align, hence the need for replacement. Maybe it was just me, but it was sounding like the vibration issue was from the tie rods, which is unlikely. Another common vibration cause is a u-joint. That could explain why you feel a vibration with no signs of it in the steering wheel. Even warped rotors would generate vibration in the wheel. Good luck, chasing vibration issues is a lot like chasing ghosts
 
I have thought about the u-joint, but it mainly feels like it comes from the front end. I need to get an alignment since I got larger tires, but I hesitate to pay someone 70 bucks to do an alignment only to find out I need to replace tie-rod ends or some other suspension component that is related to alignment.. :(
 
I have thought about the u-joint, but it mainly feels like it comes from the front end. I need to get an alignment since I got larger tires, but I hesitate to pay someone 70 bucks to do an alignment only to find out I need to replace tie-rod ends or some other suspension component that is related to alignment.. :(

You're 4x4 so you could still have a u-joint issue in the front end. You can always check the tie rods yourself to see if you can turn them or if they look damaged at all. Oh, and find a place that offers lifetime alignments like Firestone. I've had some people on here recommend the same and I plan on following the advice
 
I have thought about the u-joint, but it mainly feels like it comes from the front end. I need to get an alignment since I got larger tires, but I hesitate to pay someone 70 bucks to do an alignment only to find out I need to replace tie-rod ends or some other suspension component that is related to alignment.. :(

I took my 4runner in to get an alignment one day and they called me saying they started doing the alignment and noticed my tie rods were bad and said they couldn't do the alignment unless they replaced them so you can probably go to a shop and ask 'em to do one and well they won't be able to if you've got bad suspension components so they won't charge you. That's how I figured out what I needed done. Go to firestone and get there lifetime alignment! check out my thread on that:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/64995-firestone-tire-alignment-great-deal.html
 
I've just always been kind of wary of Firestone because I've heard horror stories of them not doing a good job. Maybe I should take it into the local alignment shop and see if they can just tell me if the TREs need replacing.

That's a good point about the front u-joint as well. I imagine a lot of this stuff has seen some pretty good use since I have 160k miles.
 
Yeah, I know what you mean about "horror stories @ Firestone." Know a couple people who have been caught up in those but thankfully I know one of the mechanics that works at one by my house and he's the only one allowed to touch my vehicles ! I lucked out
 
I've just always been kind of wary of Firestone because I've heard horror stories of them not doing a good job. Maybe I should take it into the local alignment shop and see if they can just tell me if the TREs need replacing.

That's a good point about the front u-joint as well. I imagine a lot of this stuff has seen some pretty good use since I have 160k miles.

I don't think the front u-joints are replaceable, you just replace the whole front driveshaft AFAIK. I haven't dealt with the front driveshaft myself though so I could be wrong, but I believe the only u-joint that you can replace is the rear one on the rear driveshaft.

Get under there with the truck in N, block the tires, and grab the driveshafts and see if there is play in either of them. A little clockwise/c.c. motion is normal, but side to side or up and down motion means a u-joint is bad.
 
Ok, I'll give that a shot. Garage got robbed so it's inaccessible right now while I replace the doors. :(

Thanks for the help guys. This is pretty much the only other issue I have with the Runner besides the brakes and that's an easy fix. :)
 
going back to your first post...


Who balanced your tires??? I ask because I tried a couple different shops (Sears, Peerless) before caving and taking it to the dealership. $88 later, smooth as silk with no vibrations. Cost is a bit much, but it was worth it.

EDIT: I had tires mounted as well, so it shouldn't cost $88. Should be more like $30-$40. Sorry, I forgot to mention that.

It took me 5 months and replacing all of my bushings to track down the culprit. I didn't know it was my tires, because I assumed (huge mistake!) that Sears balanced them properly the first time. I'm not overly bitter, because the bushings needed to be replaced, but it's been a frustrating experience.

You will hear varying opinions on the subject, but; in my experience, it really doesn't matter where you have them balanced if it isn't done correctly.
 
Last edited:

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,054
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top