Ignoring the fact that you don't know how many calipers there are, this is terrible advice. They can either replace the calipers again if they believe the calipers are the problem, or take it to a shop to diagnose, but why would they buy replacement parts without knowing that they will fix the issue, and then have a shop diagnose?
Violent shaking when braking
- Thread starter nathanroyse
- Start date
Ignoring the fact that you don't know how many calipers there are, this is terrible advice. They can either replace the calipers again if they believe the calipers are the problem, or take it to a shop to diagnose, but why would they buy replacement parts without knowing that they will fix the issue, and then have a shop diagnose?
Sparky 97Runner
New member
Didn't you have this exact same problem before you did the Tundra upgrade? I doubt that two different calipers would give you the exact same problem, but I could be wrong. Did you ever change out the wobbling CV axle?
You've been dismissive of everyone's suggestions without even checking anything. It can't be my caliper! It's brand new! As several people have stated that they have received brand new bad calipers. But hey, why listen to anyone that doesn't agree with your line of thought. Just keep throwing parts at a problem you don't understand. I'm sure you'll get there eventually.
Have you asked yourself "what did I do that caused this to happen"? Was it doing all this before you put on new caliper/pads/rotors/brake lines? If the answer is "no" then you most likely have a problem with one of them not some other part that was acting perfectly fine before you changed those brake parts. If you replace your tires and you suddenly have a vibration then it's probably a problem with your new tires and not your transmission.
You clearly don't own a 3rd gen. If you're going to hang out in the wrong sub section please refrain from giving any more "advice" or "suggestions".
nathanroyse
New member
Thank you! my point exactly. Changed the CV axles, both of them. No change. My front drivers side still does not spin freely when lifted off the ground. I also checked the rears again just to be 100% sure. When jacking both rear tires off the ground in neutral I noticed that the rear drivers side did not spin at all. I had to use screws to take the drum off because of how tight the shoes were. I also noticed that I could grab the shoes and move them side to side in the wheel cylinder... if that makes sense. I replaced the wheel cylinder with one from auto zone because it was only $20 and at this point I just want this to be fixed. when bleeding the brakes I followed Timmy the Toolmans instructional video but noticed that only the front side of the wheel cylinder would expand when pressing the brake. is this normal? could I just be getting screwed by autozone parts? I threw the drum back on and used the parking brake to self adjust the shoes and sure enough it locked up again.
nathanroyse
New member
Don't you think that the caliper would be the first thing I looked at? I checked the calipers. I have taken them off multiple times, pressed each cylinder in and they all feel the same. no leaks, no cuts in the rubber, nothing. If you would have read my introduction you would know that it was happening before I changed the calipers... that's why I changed them. I made no changes to the car to cause this problem. I don't see how changing tires would effect a transmission... or how that relates to the topic at all. But thank you for your confidence in me getting there! I really hope I am able to figure it out soon.
Sparky 97Runner
New member
I don't know if this would cause the violent shaking or not but this is not normal and also needs to be resolved. I doubt it's caused by the differential but the A.D.D happens to only unlock the passenger side. You could pull the pads to see if it spins freely to rule out the differential. From there it's only the brake systems or the bearings and I think you've already ruled the bearings out. As far as the rear brakes go, the auto adjusters should not be able to over tighten the brakes if everything is assembled correctly. I seem to remember that some rear brake parts can accidentally be installed backwards or opposite. Hopefully someone will chime in on that one.
Cree
New member
Ok, where do you feel the vibration the most?
Dash?
Floor?
Pedal?
Steering wheel?
Does the wheel move?
Does your TCase lever shake when this happens?
Have you tried using 4WD since this happened?
Did you do the axles and the brakes at the same time?
I have a good idea of what it might be, but that will depend on the answers to my questions.
Dash?
Floor?
Pedal?
Steering wheel?
Does the wheel move?
Does your TCase lever shake when this happens?
Have you tried using 4WD since this happened?
Did you do the axles and the brakes at the same time?
I have a good idea of what it might be, but that will depend on the answers to my questions.
nathanroyse
New member
I feel it most in the dashboard, under my butt, and in the back of the car it seems like. it’s like “thump thump thump...” but really fast. steering wheel shakes as well. my tcase lever doesn’t shake. 4wd works perfectly fine. i did my brakes before i did the axles.
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NJ-4Runner
Member
Did you fix this yet. I would imagine that this has something to do with it!
nathanroyse
New member
I took it back off, took it all apart, replaced the wheel cylinder, re-lubed all of the moving pieces just the way timmy the tool man said to do it and re-bled the brakes and a bunch of old black fluid came out of that side. it doesn’t lock up anymore but i’m still having the shaking problem.
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Cree
New member
Have you checked to see if you tossed a wheel weight? I feel like you can rule out brakes honestly. You'd feel that in the brake pedal.
Also, if you have a 00 SR5, which Tundra brakes did you upgrade to? If you went with the 231's and still have the split 3 spoke wheels, you need to check the fronts for signs of contact with the calipers.
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nathanroyse
New member
i did. i’m missing all weights on 1 wheel but i don’t think that would cause such harsh shaking only when braking... i upgraded to 13wl which are the 231’s i think. no sign of contact. i have 16in method NVs with a 1.25” spidertrax spacer. i have like 1/2 clearance all the way around the caliper. and i’m starting to think that i might not be the front brakes but something wrong with my rear end... it’s a pretty bad shake. i don’t wanna say it bounces me off my seat... but it’s damn close[emoji23]
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Cree
New member
Swap your wheels front and rear and see if it changes. I'm guessing it's a rear that's missing weight and as the weight transfers forward it allows that wheel to wobble worse.
nathanroyse
New member
unfortunately i already tried this
it was missing weights in the front so i moved it to the back... no changeSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
nathanroyse
New member
UPDATE: Took it to a shop and turns out the rear drums were warped. 2 brand new sets of rear drums from Autozone were warped right out of the box. Unbelievable. Bought OEM drums from toyota and the problem is fixed.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Too Stroked
Member
High quality Chinese drums no doubt.
Mike's4Runner
New member
Lesson learned, same thing happened to me on my previous car (2001 Subaru Forester). I replaced the rear drums with some Chinese from 1A Auto, I was going nutz from the vibration.. I put the OEMs back on, problem went away.. they were not centric.
Since then and whenever possible, I only buy OEM replacement parts for engine, suspension and brake components.. OEM has the best research and development as well as durability.
Glad you were able to work it out.
