"Voltage Booster" for 31M AGM Battery

Perhaps I'm missing something here, but shouldn't a dual battery setup, equalize it's voltage automatically. With two batteries installed, it's like having one large battery provided they are not isolated. I would think the batteries would simply equalize after time. A normal battery will charge up with anything greater than 12.6 volts right, and the voltage is how you control the rate of charge. If you have a dead battery and jump and start, you will have a high voltage like 15-18 volts charging up the battery, that voltage will slowly creep down back to 13 something over time.

As far as amps, I don't think that has anything to do with it, deep cycle batteries should not be charged at greater than 10amps anyhow, so any alternator will output that and almost all of the time, your alternator isn't putting out hardly anything, until you turn on your headlights which take more than everything else combined. Looking into dual battery setups and deep cycles, I was more concerned with charging the battery too fast, compared to not charging it at all. Perhaps the AGM deep cycles can be charged at a faster rate, but normally deep cycle fast charge is a no no. A normal car battery will charge up in less than an hour usually, they are built to charge up extremely quickly, but should never go below 50-75% charge or damage will start.

What your referring to is a battery bank, I'm running two batteries that are connected via a intelligent solenoid that separates the batteries when at rest. Tractors, boats, and heavy equipment typically have battery banks because of the energy needed to start large engines.

AGMs need much higher than 10v to even maintain charge under load, from my research a typical AGM will not charge under 13.6v. You are correct old school lead acid deep-cycle plate batteries should be charged long and low.
 
Don't they make some kind of DC to DC charger that would simply charge your secondary battery from the provided voltage and regulate(boost) the voltage as needed for the AGM, so input voltage could even be the static 12.6 and still charge up?

Really you just need something to boost and regulate the voltage, however I don't like the idea of altering the systems current running voltage system, seems like it would be better to boost the voltage from the supplied voltage by using a DC-DC charger.
 
Don't they make some kind of DC to DC charger that would simply charge your secondary battery from the provided voltage and regulate(boost) the voltage as needed for the AGM, so input voltage could even be the static 12.6 and still charge up?

Really you just need something to boost and regulate the voltage, however I don't like the idea of altering the systems current running voltage system, seems like it would be better to boost the voltage from the supplied voltage by using a DC-DC charger.

They do, but DC-DC converts Amps into Volts and from what i have read, from those across the pacific, is that the DC-DC chargers are fire hazards and do more damage... not to say putting a resistor in my fuse box is not a fire hazard but i couldn't find any documented issues with the fuse solution.
 
Update: it appears like the fuse allows for just enough amps to charge my AGM battery.

Sunday morning my AGM battery showed 11.6v this morning it shows 12.2v. Yesterday I drove approximately 2hrs of mostly highway, parked and let my fridge run all night. Prior to installing the fuse my AGM battery would be critical unless I plugged into shore power. Initially this fuse appears to charge the AMG at a rate to overcome overnight discharge.

One thing to note, my primary (oem) battery typically shows higher volts than what it is showing this morning. It will be interesting to see if this trend continues.


I will keep updating this thread
bda358ac12e44f52209ad20784250a4e.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Update: it appears like the fuse allows for just enough amps to charge my AGM battery.

Sunday morning my AGM battery showed 11.6v this morning it shows 12.2v. Yesterday I drove approximately 2hrs of mostly highway, parked and let my fridge run all night. Prior to installing the fuse my AGM battery would be critical unless I plugged into shore power. Initially this fuse appears to charge the AMG at a rate to overcome overnight discharge.

One thing to note, my primary (oem) battery typically shows higher volts than what it is showing this morning. It will be interesting to see if this trend continues.


I will keep updating this thread
bda358ac12e44f52209ad20784250a4e.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

why is your fridge drawing down your starting battery, i thought you had it isolated?
 
That raises the voltage?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Yes, it's designed to raise the voltage for the type of battery, in the case of AGM, it's 14.4v, at a max of 25amp charge, from a system that put's out much less voltage, so if your voltage is 13.4 or more, this will start charging the second battery. It also will accept solar panels and charge your second battery from the solar panel and the main battery at the same time. The only thing I see this not doing is backwards jump starting.
 
Yes, it's designed to raise the voltage for the type of battery, in the case of AGM, it's 14.4v, at a max of 25amp charge, from a system that put's out much less voltage, so if your voltage is 13.4 or more, this will start charging the second battery. It also will accept solar panels and charge your second battery from the solar panel and the main battery at the same time. The only thing I see this not doing is backwards jump starting.

This is the smoke and mirrors that was referred to earlier in the thread. All this unit does is convert the already limited amps into watts. On top of that these coverters have reliability issues.
 
Yes, it's designed to raise the voltage for the type of battery, in the case of AGM, it's 14.4v, at a max of 25amp charge, from a system that put's out much less voltage, so if your voltage is 13.4 or more, this will start charging the second battery. It also will accept solar panels and charge your second battery from the solar panel and the main battery at the same time. The only thing I see this not doing is backwards jump starting.
I don't see anything in the manual, the output voltage looks like it mirrors the input (except when input is higher, has mppt controller)

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
This is the smoke and mirrors that was referred to earlier in the thread. All this unit does is convert the already limited amps into watts. On top of that these coverters have reliability issues.

I haven't really researched these at all, but from what I'm seeing, I don't see any reason why these would be smoke and mirrors. It's pretty easy to build a DC-DC charging circuit. These are not converters, this unit is a battery charger, instead of an input of AC 110v, these use a DC input, not much too it, simple circuitry.

With olm's law, you can do a lot of things with resistance, voltage and current, your simply trading a bit more current to boost the voltage up, but not by much and your alternator shouldn't have too much trouble with a 25amp charge, your headlights require almost that much to run, I would think even at idle you would be charging pretty decently, but I have no real world experience, testing any of these.
 
I don't see anything in the manual, the output voltage looks like it mirrors the input (except when input is higher, has mppt controller)

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

The brochure will show that the voltage output is dependent on what type of battery it's charging, in the case of AGM, it's 14.4. But it's going to vary the voltage somewhat during the charging cycle to top the battery off, get fully charged and not overcharge.

https://www.australiandirect.com.au/assets/files/IDC25_Broch.pdf
 
This fuse definitely works for my application. I never plugged into shore power for the last 7 days and my fridge battery has stayed charged and operational. I drove 2 hrs Monday, 2 hrs Tuesday, 1hr Wednesday, and 1.5 hrs yesterday (Thursday). I'm very happy with these results. Additionally the last 3 days have been very hot and my truck has been parked outside in the sun with my fridge set at 37*.



Below is a picture from this morning.

93304bf3fc59b3cee3b8d6fa6cf29b56.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This fuse definitely works for my application. I never plugged into shore power for the last 7 days and my fridge battery has stayed charged and operational. I drove 2 hrs Monday, 2 hrs Tuesday, 1hr Wednesday, and 1.5 hrs yesterday (Thursday). I'm very happy with these results. Additionally the last 3 days have been very hot and my truck has been parked outside in the sun with my fridge set at 37*.



Below is a picture from this morning.

93304bf3fc59b3cee3b8d6fa6cf29b56.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you have isolated batteries, why is your starting battery not fully charged?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
If you have isolated batteries, why is your starting battery not fully charged?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Its a little low because last night I spent about 2 hrs cleaning the truck with the dome lights on, normally it's 12.4 - 12.5.
 
got my voltage booster in.
Running a 31agm, and was definitely not getting charged properly before.

Think i'm getting closer to whats needed to properly charge the agm now.
 
I am looking at buying one of these fuses to boost my voltage on my 2010 4runner. I have dual agm batteries. The site does not list the 2010 specifically, but lists a 2015. Is there something different? I noticed other 2010 Toyota models listed as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I want to purchase the voltage booster for a AGM in my 2007. The website shows only the 2005 year for the 4th gens. Anyone know what would work with my 07 V-8? I contacted the company, since Australia doesn't import 4Runners they are unsure.
 
I am looking at buying one of these fuses to boost my voltage on my 2010 4runner. I have dual agm batteries. The site does not list the 2010 specifically, but lists a 2015. Is there something different? I noticed other 2010 Toyota models listed as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I want to purchase the voltage booster for a AGM in my 2007. The website shows only the 2005 year for the 4th gens. Anyone know what would work with my 07 V-8? I contacted the company, since Australia doesn't import 4Runners they are unsure.

Check fusebox for "ALT-S" fuse. If you have one, then you will be able to use this voltage booster.
 
Rayofsi thank you for the info! I've got the Sequoia at work today but will check when I get home. I'm running 13.8 - 14.0 volts on the 4Runner, not enough to make an AGM work well and last.


.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,113
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top