Walk me through this... Window motor/actuator problems

[GetZPayd]

OK, now same procedure, switch in the up position. Check the Blue with Yellow stripe wire in position #6 for Ground. You will need to have the other end of the test light connected to POWER. Or use an Ohmmeter and check for continuity to ground with the switch in the UP position.

:hungry:

Ok, I got nothing on that one. Test light to power, testing blue w/yellow stripe, switch in the up position.

That means its a bad ground?

 

[IBallEngineer]

Ok, I got nothing on that one. Test light to power, testing blue w/yellow stripe, switch in the up position.

That means its a bad ground?

That means the switch isn't providing ground. Now test terminal #12 for ground, white with black wire should be grounded at all times. Test light to POWER, and probe that wire.

 

[GetZPayd]

That means the switch isn't providing ground. Now test terminal #12 for ground, white with black wire should be grounded at all times. Test light to POWER, and probe that wire.

I assumed you were now on to the drivers side...

Checked white w/black on the drivers side and its good.

 

[IBallEngineer]

I assumed you were now on to the drivers side...

Checked white w/black on the drivers side and its good.

No, we are still on the passenger front door.

If you have a jumper wire, you need to test the entire circuit this way.

Apply ground to the blue w/yellow stripe wire while you hold the switch in the up position. This should make the window go up.

 

[GetZPayd]

No, we are still on the passenger front door.

If you have a jumper wire, you need to test the entire circuit this way.

Apply ground to the blue w/yellow stripe wire while you hold the switch in the up position. This should make the window go up.

I have no white w/black on the pass side. Its a 1996

*EDIT*
My bad, reading comprehension is not a strong suit of mine, nor electrical as it seems. I'll go ahead and Apply ground to the blue w/yellow stripe wire while you hold the switch in the up position. This should make the window go up...as you stated.

 

[IBallEngineer]

]I have no white w/black on the pass side. Its a 1996[/B]

*EDIT*
My bad, reading comprehension is not a strong suit of mine, nor electrical as it seems. I'll go ahead and Apply ground to the blue w/yellow stripe wire while you hold the switch in the up position. This should make the window go up...as you stated.

OK, well there should be some sort of ground there at the switch, since the window works in the down position, it is most likely good. I was just covering myself. Let's see if [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] can take a moment away from undercoating his rustbucket to look for the colors on a 96!

 

[TheDurk]

OK, well there should be some sort of ground there at the switch, since the window works in the down position, it is most likely good. I was just covering myself. Let's see if [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] can take a moment away from undercoating his rustbucket to look for the colors on a 96!

FORMER rust bucket, thank you very much!

The answer is blue with red stripe.

Here you go:

 

[IBallEngineer]

FORMER rust bucket, thank you very much!

Here you go:

Ah yes, I stand corrected! Thanks for the link.

So to the OP, you checked the ground at the driver's side, which is where the passenger side get's it's ground. So that is all good.

I'm 99% sure you need a switch. Since the 96 appears not to have the AUTO function, you should be able to try a back door switch(??) to see if it works, provided the connector is the same.

:hungry:

 

[GetZPayd]

Ah yes, I stand corrected! Thanks for the link.

So to the OP, you checked the ground at the driver's side, which is where the passenger side get's it's ground. So that is all good.

I'm 99% sure you need a switch. Since the 96 appears not to have the AUTO function, you should be able to try a back door switch(??) to see if it works, provided the connector is the same.

:hungry:

Funny. As you were typing and I was waiting, I went and grabbed one of the switches outta the back window and I'll give ya one guess what happened when I plugged it in....

Thank you for taking the time to help out [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION]. I'll get a new switch ordered. Thanks again, your knowledge is much appreciated.

*EDIT* [MENTION=67856]4R#3[/MENTION] and [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] thanks a lot for the help guys.

 

[IBallEngineer]

:faint:

That's what happens when the person posting thanks people for the help!

Happiness all around!

:hatsoff:

 

[GetZPayd]

It works. The window goes up/down when its asked to, from both door.

It is backwards tho (down is up and up is down). Taking a shot at this one, I would say it was because I used a switch from the opposite side (used rear drivers)?

 

[TheDurk]

It works. The window goes up/down when its asked to, from both door.

It is backwards tho (down is up and up is down). Taking a shot at this one, I would say it was because I used a switch from the opposite side (used rear drivers)?

I doubt it. All three switches are wired the same way. Either connection reversed at motor, as suggested above, or at the switch, or the whole switch is in backwards. Those plugs all go in only one way, so maybe you can just turn the whole switch around?

 

[GetZPayd]

I doubt it. All three switches are wired the same way. Either connection reversed at motor, as suggested above, or at the switch, or the whole switch is in backwards. Those plugs all go in only one way, so maybe you can just turn the whole switch around?

Hrmm. Which is the right way to do it? I imagine just swapping the wires on the motor would be quickest/cleanest option. Would that create any future problems you guys can think of? I mean, it works, right?

So its not like I cant make it to work this week cuz my window controls are backwards...or maybe I can't :evil:

I have everything up back together atm, but planned on tearing it apart again this weekend to start stereo install and sound deadening.

 

[GetZPayd]

Great question. Everyone's definition of 'the right way' is different. Well, if it's my 3rd gen the right way to do it is figure out why up-down seem to be reversed and correct it.

Right

Regarding any long term concerns with installing a motor after swapping the wiring? Not necessarily, but you've got to question the quality of any aftermarket or reman motor which somehow arrived to you with motor polarity reversed. They move a decent about of current too, so your wire swap - I'd probably go solder + heat shrink tubing vs. crimp and e-tape.

I'm with you on the remaned motor issues. I'll try and dig up the Ebay link to motors I bought. They seemed legit and had a ton on sales and reviews so IDK.

I like where your going with your thought on solder vs. crimped connections also.

See if we can get the "experts" in here for their stamp of approval. [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] and [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

 

[TheDurk]

Right


I'm with you on the remaned motor issues. I'll try and dig up the Ebay link to motors I bought. They seemed legit and had a ton on sales and reviews so IDK.

I like where your going with your thought on solder vs. crimped connections also.

See if we can get the "experts" in here for their stamp of approval. [MENTION=102597]IBallEngineer[/MENTION] and [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]

I agree with the above. Try some other switches just to rule that out while you look for anything that is in backwards--I don't think there is. Then swapped motor leads is the only remaining possibility and is certainly the kind of error you see on Chinese parts from time to time. I've had BMW left foglights with the right side plugs on them and so on. If it can't be reattached at the motor end, then cutting and flipping the truck lead is the way to go. And absolutely solder and heat shrink over crimps. I hate those things.

 

[IBallEngineer]

I agree with the above.

Me too!

:closed_2: