Wanting to improve on-road comfort, looking for feedback

BigDummy

New member
Hi all, I have a 2001 SR5 4x4 that is on its stock suspension with 155k miles, I have owned it since 60k miles in 2006, and I plan on owning, or at least keeping it in the family, it for the next 15 years as well. Driving is 99% paved, 1% gravel roads sometimes in bad shape.

I want to reduce excess rebounding, body roll, generally improve composure, and reduce noise.

Shocks - Tokico Trekmasters front and back. It looks like they were discontinued but I found a few places that claim to still have them. If they aren't available, I was thinking OME. The OEM Tokico's are another consideration if the Trekmasters fall through. My current shocks are shot so anything will be a huge improvement.

How long do springs last and how do I know if mine are bad? Even if they "work" a 19 year old spring won't ride like a new one, right?

I like the idea of doing a 5th gen 4Runner rear spring (orange/pink) which would put me about a 1.5" over stock with a firmer spring. I would then want an inch up front so probably OME 880s or 99 talls? Seems like those are the only real options I can find, plus spacers if needed. Seems like everything else rides higher.

Any other options for springs I am not considering that are in the spirit of minimal lift improved ride? I would consider coil overs if they are worth the extra cash for on-road performance.

Bushings:
Many of my bushings are shot. All the aftermarket sets I am finding are polyurethane. Are there any parts that really benefit from being rubber? Seems like body mounting bushings in particular could benefit from being rubber. Steering rack I would liked tightened up so poly there makes sense. The others I am less sure on. The rear control arm bushings, for example, seem like a great place to isolate vibration, but also a way to keep everything firm to begin and provide better performance, overall I would lean rubber though. Sway bars though I think would benefit from poly for my purposes. Has anyone taken a hybrid approach on replacing their bushings?

Diff drop:
If I do a 1-2" lift or so, would I need to do a diff drop?

Front UCA:
Do uniball UCAs provide improved ride quality if I only lift 1-2"? At what point do they become recommended? I am thinking I can skip them, but maybe there is maintenance I should be doing while I am doing other things?

Sway bars:
I was going to do the suspension and bushings first and see if that got me where I want the rig to be. If it was still too loose, then add The Addco one's seem a good upgrade if I go this route.

Sound Deadening:
I have 100 pounds of the stuff ready to install as I take body panels off for stereo work and then eventually the rest of floor. I also need to replace the lock on my rear tailgate (was rear ended a year ago and just finally got a paint matched tailgate), so good time to access that!

Tires:
Going with Highway All-Seasons. Thinking something like Michelin Defenders. I see the 2020 Tacoma Premium 18" comes with them, but those wheels appear to be +35 offset. They are also 7.5" thick wheels (.5" thicker than mine), so another .25" (6.3MM) each side of center. So if I got a 1" (25.4MM) spacer that should get me within 1MM of original interior part of wheel, about 20MM past where the tire currently is. They are 265/60/18 so same height as my current 245/75/16. I found a local deal on a 2020 Tacoma Premium take off I want to grab if this would work. I currently have some unevenly worn, older Toyo All Terrains on it, so this should be a massive upgrade if they fit.

Seats:
I hate the seats in this thing. Still doing research. I think a replacement will go further than a re-foam and new leather. Seeing some BMWs, Audis, Lexuses (Lexi?) being swapped.

Any feedback on all of this would be appreciated.

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If your goal is the best road manners possible I would stick with stock height or 99 tall springs at the most, replace control arm bushings with oem rubber and use poly bushings on the sway bars and steering rack. I like poly bushings and have everything poly on mine but it definitely makes the ride more harsh, so go with rubber there and on the body mounts as well.

The stock springs are likely pretty worn out so I would bet that just new springs and shocks would be a huge improvement, especially with the body roll. I would pick 99 talls with oem shocks, you wouldn’t need a diff drop with that setup
 
So far I've been disappointed by every shock I've tried. I'm hoping to try out a progressive shock soon, perhaps the dobinson.

I will say that I absolutely do not recommend ome shocks, way too stiff. 5100s are too stiff as well, imho
 
So far I've been disappointed by every shock I've tried. I'm hoping to try out a progressive shock soon, perhaps the dobinson.

I will say that I absolutely do not recommend ome shocks, way too stiff. 5100s are too stiff as well, imho


So I like what I read about progressive valving but I am having a hard time figuring out who is progressive / linear.

King and Fox are progressive.

Bilstein and Icon are digressive.

Eibach I see a fair number of forums saying they are progressive, but I can't find anything on their website.

The Tokico Trekmasters I can't find anything.

OME I see a number of websites saying they are progressive but can't find anything in official material, same as Eibach.
 
If you want comfort, avoid any springs that are stiffer than stock. '99 talls are good. 5th gen rear springs will give you a lift, but are stiffer than stock (good if you are going to tow or carry weight, not the best for comfort if you are empty). Don't mess with any diff drop, extended swaybar links or anything like that. A 1" lift (say, '99 talls) is still a 'stock' height! That said, if you like the current ride height (if you are around 20" from center of hub to fender), you can keep your stock springs just fine. If your ride height is much below 20", you can start hitting bump stops during normal driving which is very uncomfortable...

Most comfortable shocks will be OEM Toyota. KYB is another good choice for comfortable stock replacement. I chose bilstein 4600's for a slightly stiffer and controlled ride many years ago and run 5100's now.

Keep all suspension bushings stock rubber for max comfort. Poly swaybar bushings will be fine.

Good quality street oriented tires at the right pressure will help too. (no load range E all terrains!) So you are on track there.

I have Addco bars on mine for street use (I disconnect the front offroad). Do just the rear first and see if you like the improvement. The front is much stiffer than stock which can be good or bad, depending on personal preference and driving conditions.

Seat comfort is very personal. I didn't like my old stock base (non-sport) seats, but the sport cloth seats fit me pretty well. You can swap seat foams left to right with some effort to gain some more 'mileage' from your current seats.

-Charlie
 
Also, based on what I can find and read, the diff drop isn't really a drop, but a "re-angle". Not worth it at all under 2-2.5 I think. To me, it's best to avoid it, honestly you don't want to lose down travel.

I have some charts I need to post, shows a lot of information about shocks that I've found.
 
I went with Kings and the ToyTec Superlift springs in back a few months ago. The ride is much smoother and handles weight very well. My wife has even commented on how well the 4Runner rides now.
 
IucLPra


I think I got a good deal. $600 brand new pull offs of a 2020 Tacoma Premium. But spent $200 on 1" spacers (will be here next week, will post pictures once I can install them). So basically paid retail for the tires and got the wheels for free. Will be the first time I've ran spacers on anything, will be interested in seeing if they blow my wheel bearings.

Unusual Activity Detected - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing 2x of those.

I don't mean to knock your purchase of spacers, as those probably will work, but ideally you want something that has the lip that replicates the factory hub so the wheels have something to be centered on. Without the lip it can cause vibrations depending on the wheel.

I went with BORA. 4 Years strong at 2"
https://www.motorsport-tech.com/4DCGI/updateprice_truck
 
I went with Kings and the ToyTec Superlift springs in back a few months ago. The ride is much smoother and handles weight very well. My wife has even commented on how well the 4Runner rides now.

Big moneyyy! Haha. How do the king's handle small bumps? Harsh or soft?
 
Big moneyyy! Haha. How do the king's handle small bumps? Harsh or soft?

I spent the extra for custom valving from Filthy Motorsports with extra travel plus remote resis in back with adjustable dampeners. I caught myself running 40 mph down a dirt country road a few weeks ago without evening thinking twice about it. I started to back off at 60 mph mainly because the rig felt loose on the dirt; not because the ride was harsh.

My only regret is not doing this upgrade the day I bought my 4Runner.
 
The cheapest thing you can do to improve body roll is to replace all four sets of sway bar end link bushings. I do recommend poly bushing here as you do want them stiff, these 4Runners have a lot of body roll once they age. I'll list some other low-cost things to improve on-road handling (I consider my 4Runner an on-road build):

Sway bar end link bushings - $30. Energy Suspension sells a good kit that works well.
Sway bar bushings front and rear - $30. Once again Energy Suspension has good kits.
Steering rack bushings - Stick with rubber. New bushings help with steering slop but poly bushings will transfer vibrations from the front wheels to your hands while driving. They are difficult to replace though.
Shocks - OEM Tokico blacks are the smoothest on-road shocks you can buy. Same goes with OEM springs like the 99 talls. Almost every other aftermarket shock and spring is made for offroading in mind, not on-road driving. Rear OEM Tokico's can be had for $42 each: Shock Absorber - Toyota (48531-80693) | Toyota Parts.

I would save the money and not buy the Addco sway bars. The bushings alone will make a huge difference.
 
So what about the UCA's? I am also curious if changing these out would improve ride quality. I replaced my LCA bushings (Whiteline) and ball joints (Toyota OEM). Wondering if doing the same to the uppers would help some also or if its more worth it to buy aftermarket UCA's. I heard replacing the ball joints on the uppers are a pain too. Got about a 2.5" coilover lift and 1" BL.
 
The cheapest thing you can do to improve body roll is to replace all four sets of sway bar end link bushings. I do recommend poly bushing here as you do want them stiff, these 4Runners have a lot of body roll once they age. I'll list some other low-cost things to improve on-road handling (I consider my 4Runner an on-road build):

Sway bar end link bushings - $30. Energy Suspension sells a good kit that works well.
Sway bar bushings front and rear - $30. Once again Energy Suspension has good kits.
Steering rack bushings - Stick with rubber. New bushings help with steering slop but poly bushings will transfer vibrations from the front wheels to your hands while driving. They are difficult to replace though.
Shocks - OEM Tokico blacks are the smoothest on-road shocks you can buy. Same goes with OEM springs like the 99 talls. Almost every other aftermarket shock and spring is made for offroading in mind, not on-road driving. Rear OEM Tokico's can be had for $42 each: Shock Absorber - Toyota (48531-80693) | Toyota Parts.

I would save the money and not buy the Addco sway bars. The bushings alone will make a huge difference.



That's some great feedback, thank you.

I ended up getting Tokico Trekmasters on Shox.com. I halfway expect them to not be fulfilled, I just ordered them last night. I also bought the OEM 2001 springs front and back and new KYB tophats.

I installed the wheels / tires off the 2020 Tacoma Premium with wheel spacers and did 10 miles with 6 of those on freeway. I will take them off and re-torque the spacers before I drive it next. Way better ride with the tires alone. 265/60/18s still give enough sidewall to take bumps and the Michelin Defender is just such a superior tire to my old Toyos. Time remains to see if I regret going to spacers or not.

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

I've tried embedding pictures but it doesn't seem to let me with imgur.
 
Shox.com just cancelled my order for the Trekmasters so I went with OEM from Camelback Toyota.

This makes me rethink getting the KYB tophats a little bit, as now I will have OEM shocks and springs but KYB tophats... Just seems like OEM tophats are way too much.


Speaking of which, I am trying to find the TRD Supercharger Throttle Body O-Gasket PTR26-35041. It looks like that part has gotten really expensive for what it is ($35+) but the URD version is $9. Anyone have luck with that?

I am also looking at doing the ISR mod and trying to decide if the deckplate mod actually does anything.
 
Speaking of which, I am trying to find the TRD Supercharger Throttle Body O-Gasket PTR26-35041. It looks like that part has gotten really expensive for what it is ($35+) but the URD version is $9. Anyone have luck with that?

I am also looking at doing the ISR mod and trying to decide if the deckplate mod actually does anything.
Modify your stock gasket or get the URD one, your choice.

Do the ISR and/or deckplate for engine sound and engine bay beauty, not power. You might get a couple of ponies along the way, but it isn't the point...

-Charlie
 

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