Warning Lights On

[Canazes9]

So Canazes9 your post on 9/27/2013 where you suggest checking continuity of the sensors was in error then!


If you check the continuity on all sensors and they are all good then I would take it to the shop where you got your rims and have them check alignment and perform zero point calibration.

Good luck!

David

Your reading comprehension is exceedingly low. I NEVER suggested checking continuity on the sensors. I suggested checking continuity on the wiring.

I think its more likely that you have a damaged wire or abs sensor than having zero point calibration error unless you smacked a curb or pot hole really hard this morning. Get a multi-meter (you can buy cheap at local auto parts store if you don't already have one) and check continuity on each of your abs sensor wires. Disconnect wire from each sensor and from the harness connection spots and check continuity.

You will need someone to help, its almost impossible to hold the probe on each end of the wiring harness on the front wheels. Start with the front, the wires in the front are more likely to be damaged when the suspension is unloaded. You will NOT be able to see any damage - the outer rubberized sheathing is very flexible and stretches, the wires break inside and you can't see the break. If you find a broken wire you can probably rig a patch by splicing and sodering in a new wire. I would only run on a patch until you can get the new wire ordered from Toyota - the part is fairly cheap (I think like $70).

If you check the continuity on all sensors and they are all good then I would take it to the shop where you got your rims and have them check alignment and perform zero point calibration.

Good luck!

David

I already explained that to you once here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/151551-warning-lights.html#post1492313

The problem was exactly what I thought it was - damaged wiring on the ABS system. The only error on my part was thinking that he wouldn't find it w/ a visual inspection - this is the first time I've seen a bracket come loose like that. Certainly a continuity check would have found this problem, just that you didn't need a meter to find a clearly severed wire.

David

 

[GreyhoundGuy]

I took a look at where you said the bracket should go, and it's a perfect fit. With the shadows I had last night, I wasn't able to see it.

Thanks again, [MENTION=96409]Canazes9[/MENTION]. I'll be able to hopefully get it back to 100% tomorrow... including adding back in a 10mm bolt!

-Joel

 

[Scott@Hightech]

So the question is really how it became loose?

 

[05Rrunner]

I took a look at where you said the bracket should go, and it's a perfect fit. With the shadows I had last night, I wasn't able to see it.

Thanks again, [MENTION=96409]Canazes9[/MENTION]. I'll be able to hopefully get it back to 100% tomorrow... including adding back in a 10mm bolt!

-Joel

Did you buy the 4runner new ?

 

[05Rrunner]

So the question is really how it became loose?

We need more info, #1 Is he the original owner.
#2 Any warranty work history.

imho: Very doubtful this was a untouched factory part that just fell off.

 

[flyrv9]

So Canzes9 you use the word sensors and now it's supposed to imply wiring? I'd say my comprehension is just fine. I was only referring to the words you used. Let's forget it shall we.

 

[Canazes9]

I think its more likely that you have a damaged wire or abs sensor than having zero point calibration error unless you smacked a curb or pot hole really hard this morning. Get a multi-meter (you can buy cheap at local auto parts store if you don't already have one) and check continuity on each of your abs sensor wires. Disconnect wire from each sensor and from the harness connection spots and check continuity.

You will need someone to help, its almost impossible to hold the probe on each end of the wiring harness on the front wheels. Start with the front, the wires in the front are more likely to be damaged when the suspension is unloaded. You will NOT be able to see any damage - the outer rubberized sheathing is very flexible and stretches, the wires break inside and you can't see the break. If you find a broken wire you can probably rig a patch by splicing and sodering in a new wire. I would only run on a patch until you can get the new wire ordered from Toyota - the part is fairly cheap (I think like $70).

If you check the continuity on all sensors and they are all good then I would take it to the shop where you got your rims and have them check alignment and perform zero point calibration.

Good luck!

David

So Canzes9 you use the word sensors and now it's supposed to imply wiring? I'd say my comprehension is just fine. I was only referring to the words you used. Let's forget it shall we.

I'm not sure what your problem is? I've quoted the original post above. I was talking about checking the wiring. Your repeated insistence that I suggested checking continuity on sensors is absurd - when u read that sentence in context, its quite clear. You drop it - you've contributed nothing to this thread other than repeated trolling.

David

 

[Scott@Hightech]

I'm not sure what your problem is? I've quoted the original post above. I was talking about checking the wiring. Your repeated insistence that I suggested checking continuity on sensors is absurd - when u read that sentence in context, its quite clear. You drop it - you've contributed nothing to this thread other than repeated trolling.

David

In the last part in the post you quoted you said to check continuity of the sensors. That is the part he is talking about.


You are both right and wrong at the same time. Checking Continuity of a sensor at the harness is a valid test, This checks for an open wire or sensor. In most cases that is the problem. Sometimes you have to go a little deeper. The next step would be to compare resistances. This may or may not solve your problem as it is still inconclusive. You don't know if the tone ring is damaged or if the gap is incorrect at this point.


THE CORRECT WAY:
Use a 4 channel lab scope and graph all 4 sensors at the same time while driving in a straight line. All 4 pattern's should be the same wave form and all be equal in amplitude.

 

[Canazes9]

In the last part in the post you quoted you said to check continuity of the sensors. That is the part he is talking about.


You are both right and wrong at the same time. Checking Continuity of a sensor at the harness is a valid test, This checks for an open wire or sensor. In most cases that is the problem. Sometimes you have to go a little deeper. The next step would be to compare resistances. This may or may not solve your problem as it is still inconclusive. You don't know if the tone ring is damaged or if the gap is incorrect at this point.


THE CORRECT WAY:
Use a 4 channel lab scope and graph all 4 sensors at the same time while driving in a straight line. All 4 pattern's should be the same wave form and all be equal in amplitude.

Read the whole post again and the post i was referring to when I typed it. Its very clear! I spent two paragraphs discussing checking continuity on the abs wiring. Then I summed it up, check the continuity before u bring it back for the zero point cal. I left 1 word out of that last sentence - i sure as heck wasn't telling anyone to check continuity on the sensors. Only an idiot would read it that way.

Then he brought up checking continuity in the sensors, and i explainec to him that's not what i meant. Now we've got a series of "gotcha" posts by a non contributor to the discussion.

I agree with the further tests you are describing if someone is attempting to diagnose a full blown abs problem - i was trying to help someone with a sudden problem on the weekend after he recently had work done on a new vehicle.

Read the thread from the begining, he's trolling....

David

 

[Scott@Hightech]

Read the whole post again and the post i was referring to when I typed it. Its very clear! I spent two paragraphs discussing checking continuity on the abs wiring. Then I summed it up, check the continuity before u bring it back for the zero point cal. I left 1 word out of that last sentence - i sure as heck wasn't telling anyone to check continuity on the sensors. Only an idiot would read it that way.

Then he brought up checking continuity in the sensors, and i explainec to him that's not what i meant. Now we've got a series of "gotcha" posts by a non contributor to the discussion.

I agree with the further tests you are describing if someone is attempting to diagnose a full blown abs problem - i was trying to help someone with a sudden problem on the weekend after he recently had work done on a new vehicle.

Read the thread from the begining, he's trolling....

David

No need for the explanation, I Know exactly what you said and what you meant. I was only pointing out his argument.

Regardless, The problem has been solved and all it took was a simple visual inspection. Often times the most basic processes solve problems.

 

[harper7]

When I broke one of my ABS wires I got a OBD DT code of P0502 that I pulled up on my Scangauge. Not sure why they didn't on yours unless the guy cleared it first or his scanner was too cheap to pull it up. P0500 thru P0503 are ABS with the latter being for intermittant ABS signal problems which I've seen before too when I had a actual bad sensor on another vehicle.
What the DTC doesn't tell you is which wheel but pretty sure Toyota's Techstream would and which I didn't have at the time.Next time I have my Techstream hooked I'll I'll unplug a sensor and see what info is on there.

DTS Code P0502...... Toyota P0502 OBD/DLC Error Code - Vehicle Speed Sensor "A" Circuit Low Input

OBD-II Check Engine Light Trouble Codes

Toyota specific....Toyota OBD-II Trouble Codes
[MENTION=90522]GreyhoundGuy[/MENTION].... looks like the wire might have gone against the manifolds since it's bracket wasn't bolted down and burned through.Looking to see if you had suspension work done as that's when that is usually taken loose and came across one of your previous post that you had front end damage work done. Could be possible they took it loose and didn't put the bolt back in or it might have gotten missed at the factory but that's not like Tahara where it was built.

 

[GreyhoundGuy]

Did you buy the 4runner new ?

No... I bought the 4R with 37k miles in November 2012. As it stands, I'm at 52k miles. Crazy how the miles rack up.

We need more info, #1 Is he the original owner.
#2 Any warranty work history.

imho: Very doubtful this was a untouched factory part that just fell off.

I haven't had any warranty work done... none needed. I've had body work done twice, once for being keyed and once for storm damage.

[MENTION=90522]GreyhoundGuy[/MENTION].... looks like the wire might have gone against the manifolds since it's bracket wasn't bolted down and burned through.Looking to see if you had suspension work done as that's when that is usually taken loose and came across one of your previous post that you had front end damage work done. Could be possible they took it loose and didn't put the bolt back in or it might have gotten missed at the factory but that's not like Tahara where it was built.

Your thought was the same as mine. I'm wondering if the wire got too close to the manifold and just slowly burned through.

I haven't had any suspension work done, and didn't really have front end damage. The storm damage mentioned above was shingles coming off the house and scratching the sh!t out of my entire truck. They ended up doing the hood, roof, both quarter panels, grill, windshield (replacement), and wiper cowels. Crazy that shingles can cause that much damage!

Regardless of how it got loose, the bracket is going back on ASAP.

I ordered the part from Toyota. The wire was $57 and the bolt was 78 cents! I'll pick up the part Wednesday night and hopefully work on it once my engine cools.

Thanks for all your help. This forum is awesome!

-Joel

 

[05Rrunner]

No... I bought the 4R with 37k miles in November 2012. As it stands, I'm at 52k miles. Crazy how the miles rack up.


I haven't had any warranty work done... none needed. I've had body work done twice, once for being keyed and once for storm damage.


Your thought was the same as mine. I'm wondering if the wire got too close to the manifold and just slowly burned through.

I haven't had any suspension work done, and didn't really have front end damage. The storm damage mentioned above was shingles coming off the house and scratching the sh!t out of my entire truck. They ended up doing the hood, roof, both quarter panels, grill, windshield (replacement), and wiper cowels. Crazy that shingles can cause that much damage!

Regardless of how it got loose, the bracket is going back on ASAP.

I ordered the part from Toyota. The wire was $57 and the bolt was 78 cents! I'll pick up the part Wednesday night and hopefully work on it once my engine cools.

Thanks for all your help. This forum is awesome!

-Joel

Being that you purchased it used, these is no way to really know what happened before you. Maybe they had a lift or a million other possible things. The good news is you found it yourself!

 

[GreyhoundGuy]

Done!

I finally had a chance to dig in and fix my 4R. It took some time to go bracket-by-bracket, removing a 10mm bolt, snaking the new cable down and putting it into position, and replacing the bolt. After 80 minutes or so (including having to move the 4R a bit into the garage to get out of the oh-so-brief rain), I have NO Christmas tree.



Thanks, y'all, for all of your help!

-Joel