Warning: OME + Sequoia wheels + 285's = serious UCA rubbing

I'm running the 1.25" Spidertrax spacers too...I noticed right after I put them on that I had a vibration at 70 or 80mph that wasn't there before. After I did my rotor replacement though and had to reinstall them I haven't noticed any vibrations...maybe the first install wasn't tight enough or something else hub related wasn't right, but they're fine now!:thumb3:

cool! i was gonna try rotating them too, cause I don't feel it in the back
 
I love mine! no rubbing ANYWHERE! I do have a slight high frequency vibration, though, anyone else get this?

Mine vibrates around 50mph, how about yours?

I have 35's. Keep in mind you can have custom spacers made from 3/4" on up, hub and lug centric. You can even have adapters that change the bolt pattern, i had a set built for the crossfire. Just FYI...
 
Mine vibrates around 50mph, how about yours?

I have 35's. Keep in mind you can have custom spacers made from 3/4" on up, hub and lug centric. You can even have adapters that change the bolt pattern, i had a set built for the crossfire. Just FYI...

mine's between 55-60 on the speedo, which is around 65-70 actual speed
 
mine's between 55-60 on the speedo, which is around 65-70 actual speed

Mine is 50mph on the speedo, 60mph or so actual. I have the hub and lug centric spacers (but not the spidertrax), i needed 1.5" insted of 1.25".

What are you thinking about doing for the vibration?
 
Mine is 50mph on the speedo, 60mph or so actual. I have the hub and lug centric spacers (but not the spidertrax), i needed 1.5" insted of 1.25".

What are you thinking about doing for the vibration?

I'm gonna start with rotating the spacers. If that doesn't work I may have to run the spacers on a balancer and do some drilling to balance them.
 
mine's between 55-60 on the speedo, which is around 65-70 actual speed

Mine is 50mph on the speedo, 60mph or so actual. I have the hub and lug centric spacers (but not the spidertrax), i needed 1.5" insted of 1.25".

What are you thinking about doing for the vibration?

Your speedometers shouldn't be even close to that far off. We checked mine against the GPS on the way home from Cleveland the other day. When my speedometer read 58, the GPS had it at 61.

For the record, I had zero vibrations with my spidertrax spacers.
 
Your speedometers shouldn't be even close to that far off. We checked mine against the GPS on the way home from Cleveland the other day. When my speedometer read 58, the GPS had it at 61.

For the record, I had zero vibrations with my spidertrax spacers.

thats how I know my speed, with my GPS.

I know 60 on the clock is 69 real-speed
48 on the clock is 55 real
26 is 30
 
Your speedometers shouldn't be even close to that far off. We checked mine against the GPS on the way home from Cleveland the other day. When my speedometer read 58, the GPS had it at 61.

For the record, I had zero vibrations with my spidertrax spacers.

I ran side by side with my friends 2006 Hyundai, when my speedo said 70 his said 80-82.

Now if i could just figure out the one simple wire that the Dakota Digital calibrator connects too.:sadwave:
 
Thanks for the heads up LINY, I am going with OME 882 with Cooper Discoverer STTs (285) I do have All Pro 1.25 Hubcentric spacers. Hopefully I don't get any body rub with the 285s. (no body lift) My spacers are hubcentric, I have no vibration problems at all!
 
Thanks for the heads up LINY, I am going with OME 882 with Cooper Discoverer STTs (285) I do have All Pro 1.25 Hubcentric spacers. Hopefully I don't get any body rub with the 285s. (no body lift) My spacers are hubcentric, I have no vibration problems at all!

285's and no body lift?

I hope you don't flex at all...
 
Your speedometers shouldn't be even close to that far off. We checked mine against the GPS on the way home from Cleveland the other day. When my speedometer read 58, the GPS had it at 61.

For the record, I had zero vibrations with my spidertrax spacers.

You gotta remember the LINY started out with 15's and he is now at 17's. Thats why he is further off now.
 
285's and no body lift?

I hope you don't flex at all...

I'm running 285s and no body lift and can stuff both the front and the rear. I did do a fair amount of trimming/beating the hell out of the pinch weld with a hammer, but its not excessive by any means. I rub on the frame but that's it and a body lift wouldn't solve that anyways.

You gotta remember the LINY started out with 15's and he is now at 17's. Thats why he is further off now.

It's not rim size that matters, it's overall diameter of the rim and tire. If he had the 15s with the 225s on then his probably is off a few more mph than mine but it still should be off by 10 mph... unless your going 120.
 
I ran side by side with my friends 2006 Hyundai, when my speedo said 70 his said 80-82.

Now if i could just figure out the one simple wire that the Dakota Digital calibrator connects too.:sadwave:

Some small amount of human and/or speedometer error could result in a slightly skewed number. Mine was checked against GPS, and while there could be error there as well I would trust it over your method. Also, if your speedometer really was 10mph at 80 mph, its not going to be 10 mph off at 60 mph. It will be more of a percentage thing rather than a magical number. If your speedo says 20, you aren't going 30. Maybe you guys are right and GPS is wrong, but I have never heard of anyone else recording a 10 mph difference running 285s at highway speeds.
 
Some small amount of human and/or speedometer error could result in a slightly skewed number. Mine was checked against GPS, and while there could be error there as well I would trust it over your method. Also, if your speedometer really was 10mph at 80 mph, its not going to be 10 mph off at 60 mph. It will be more of a percentage thing rather than a magical number. If your speedo says 20, you aren't going 30. Maybe you guys are right and GPS is wrong, but I have never heard of anyone else recording a 10 mph difference running 285s at highway speeds.

Im on 35's not 285's, but i still agree with you its more a % thing. Its obviously not as far off at lower speeds.

I am having the calibrator installed by a local shop and i planned to calibrate it via gps. I know this is probably a pretty basic thing but how do you find out your speed from a portable gps unit? My dad has a 4th gen with some kind of built-into-the-dash factory removable gps and thats what i plan to use.

Sorry to hi-jack your thread Liny just wondering if someone could help. If its not a simple answer i will start a new thread.:hiding:
 
Im on 35's not 285's, but i still agree with you its more a % thing. Its obviously not as far off at lower speeds.

I am having the calibrator installed by a local shop and i planned to calibrate it via gps. I know this is probably a pretty basic thing but how do you find out your speed from a portable gps unit? My dad has a 4th gen with some kind of built-into-the-dash factory removable gps and thats what i plan to use.

Sorry to hi-jack your thread Liny just wondering if someone could help. If its not a simple answer i will start a new thread.:hiding:

I thought those looked like 35's in your avatar but wasn't sure. I'm honestly not sure how to do it. The TomToms that we use at work always show your speed on the main screen while you are driving, and the one we checked mine against was my brother's Garmin and I'm not sure what he went into to get the speed. Either way, I'd be interested to know your results.
 
Just to straighten up some of the confusion about speeds and tire diameters here, all it takes is to run the numbers through a tire size calculator.
If your vehicle originally came with 225/75/15, and are now running 285/70/17, then your speedometer is off by ~15.6%, for 285/75/16 you are off by 16.1%.
225/75/15 vs. 285/70/17

actual speedometer
81 70
69 60
58 50
46 40
80 69
70 61
60 52
50 43
If instead you had the more common 265/70/16 OE size, then you are only off by 6.8 and 7.1% respectively

265/70/16 vs. 285/70/17
actual speedometer
75 70
64 60
53 50
43 40
80 75
70 65
60 56
50 47

So indeed at 70mph on your speedometer, your gps should be showing 80-82mph, whereas if you started with the larger OEM size, then the differences between speeds will usually be less than 10mph
 
It's not rim size that matters, it's overall diameter of the rim and tire. If he had the 15s with the 225s on then his probably is off a few more mph than mine but it still should be off by 10 mph... unless your going 120.
Rim size does matter though, a 265/70/R17 will equal a 265/75/R16, there is a difference, i know what i am saying.
 
Rim size does matter though, a 265/70/R17 will equal a 265/75/R16, there is a difference, i know what i am saying.

doesn't further prove that overall diameter is what is important and not rim size? Your original post said this

JohnsD90 said:
You gotta remember the LINY started out with 15's and he is now at 17's. Thats why he is further off now.

I get what you are saying because if your vehicle originally came with 15" wheels, then they were mounted with 225/75/15 compared to the 16" wheels with 265/70/16, but then the 17" wheels LINY is running aren't running the OEM sized tires anymore so you aren't being consistent in your comparison.
 

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