Water accumulation on passenger floorboard from A/C

DWilliam

Member
Thankfully I have weathertech mats so I can easily dump it, but it’s not ideal. It’s just water, not coolant. Is my evaporator case clogged? If so, do I need to drain the coolant before I pull it to clean? Is there a good video showing how to drain it?
 
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There's a drain you probably have to clean. Start with going up the drain from the outside. It comes out of the firewall on the passenger side and (should) drip on the swaybar bracket mount. You can try with some lawn edger string or a quick blast of air.

You can also pull the blower motor and blower motor resistor and clean up the box - there is no filter so there can be a lot of build-up in there.

-Charlie
 
There's a drain you probably have to clean. Start with going up the drain from the outside. It comes out of the firewall on the passenger side and (should) drip on the swaybar bracket mount. You can try with some lawn edger string or a quick blast of air.

You can also pull the blower motor and blower motor resistor and clean up the box - there is no filter so there can be a lot of build-up in there.

-Charlie

Thanks Charlie. If I pulled the blower motor and box, do I need to drain coolant? Is there a good picture or video showing how to pull the blower motor and box?
 
Thanks Charlie. If I pulled the blower motor and box, do I need to drain coolant? Is there a good picture or video showing how to pull the blower motor and box?
Blower motor is easy - remove passenger door scuff plate and lower footwell panel, then 1 plug and three screws (torx, I believe?) to remove the blower. Removing the glove box and blower motor resistor will help with seeing inside without doing major surgery.

You won't be able to remove the HVAC box without removing everything else in the dash (literally - cover, wiring, support bar, etc.) - but you can open it enough to see/clean any issues. Then you can decide if you are just cleaning or doing more.

-Charlie
 
Blower motor is easy - remove passenger door scuff plate and lower footwell panel, then 1 plug and three screws (torx, I believe?) to remove the blower. Removing the glove box and blower motor resistor will help with seeing inside without doing major surgery.

You won't be able to remove the HVAC box without removing everything else in the dash (literally - cover, wiring, support bar, etc.) - but you can open it enough to see/clean any issues. Then you can decide if you are just cleaning or doing more.

-Charlie

Thanks. I was really hoping I would be able to just easily clean a hose but of course it sounds like a bigger project.
 
Thanks. I was really hoping I would be able to just easily clean a hose but of course it sounds like a bigger project.
Well, I did say just start with running some weed whacker string up the drain pipe...

But without a filter in there, the fan and evaporator and heater cores do get pretty dirty over time and might be worth cleaning once every 25 years...

-Charlie
 
Blower motor is easy - remove passenger door scuff plate and lower footwell panel, then 1 plug and three screws (torx, I believe?) to remove the blower. Removing the glove box and blower motor resistor will help with seeing inside without doing major surgery.

You won't be able to remove the HVAC box without removing everything else in the dash (literally - cover, wiring, support bar, etc.) - but you can open it enough to see/clean any issues. Then you can decide if you are just cleaning or doing more.

-Charlie

I've had a buzzing sound with my AC that gets louder as I increase the fan speed. Could this also be the Blower Motor?
 
That is probably something stuck in the fan blade/squirrel cage. Pull the blower motor and look

Pulled the fan and found that a bit of the metal portion of the space the fan sits in was bent inwards. I didn't find anything else in there so I figured this had to be the culprit. I hammered it down with a screwdriver and reinstalled the fan.

Noise has gone down a lot but still comes back lightly at full speed. I'm guessing I need to hammer it down a little more. Perhaps the fan gets slightly wider as it speeds up and just barely contacts the metal.
 
Mostly the blower motors will start to whine when the bearings start to fail. Being the age on these rigs some blower motors will start going.
If it starts to get annoying. Its time to replace it.
Don't do what I did in a 1987 Toyota pickup and ignore it.
Then have the entire cabin fill up with smoke when the motor burned up.
Trying to roll the windows down with the hand cranks as driving down the road.
Looked like Cheech and Chong driving down the road with that electric burn smell irritating my nostrils....:lookout:
 
Mostly the blower motors will start to whine when the bearings start to fail. Being the age on these rigs some blower motors will start going.
If it starts to get annoying. Its time to replace it.
Don't do what I did in a 1987 Toyota pickup and ignore it.
Then have the entire cabin fill up with smoke when the motor burned up.
Trying to roll the windows down with the hand cranks as driving down the road.
Looked like Cheech and Chong driving down the road with that electric burn smell irritating my nostrils....:lookout:

Yeah, noise is back and just as loud as before :/. It's not crazy loud so I guess I'll just deal with it for the time being.
 
Well, I did say just start with running some weed whacker string up the drain pipe...

But without a filter in there, the fan and evaporator and heater cores do get pretty dirty over time and might be worth cleaning once every 25 years...

-Charlie

Fair point! For the drain/weed whacker line, is that pipe accessible from the top or underneath the front end?
 
Fair point! For the drain/weed whacker line, is that pipe accessible from the top or underneath the front end?
Easiest is through the passenger wheel well, assuming you have some replacement splash guard clips. Otherwise, it is a bit of a reach up from the bottom. I don't think you could get down there from the top very easily.

-Charlie
 

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