Water temp at 203 after maintenance.

L

Lizard333

New member
I just replaced my timing belt, drive belts, thermostat, waster pump, tensioner, seals and what not. Before the new parts, my temp was as 193, according to my ultra gauge. Now it is at 203. What do you guys think? I replaced everything with factory parts, no aftermarket.

It never goes higher, but I do live in the desert. Grant it, she will spend the majority of her time at home at 7000 feet. But on occasion I do travel to Phoenix. Just wondering if I should be worried.
 
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I have the same problem.

I believe the fix is to rotate the thermostat so the jiggle valve is at the 6 o clock position.

I'm waiting for nice weather to drain my coolant. Rotating the thermostat should only take a few minutes.
 
I would guess you didn't put the jiggler hole on your thermostat at the 6'oclock position when you reinstalled it.
 
Remove & reinstall the thermostat so that the jiggle valve is @ 6 o'clock. I had the exact same thing happen and this is the fix.
 
Last month had the local Toyota Dealership do my water pump/timing belt and have had the exact same happen, was running at 195 and now around 203-205 after the change... Possibly the tech rotated the thermostat, but when I questioned the service rep (whom I personally know) and another tech about it after my test drive they both said it was nothing.

Could any bad side-affects possibly happen from running the round-about 10 degrees warmer water temps?
 
I hope not!, about a year ago I had Toyota do a water pump and belt job. Pretty much the same thing happened to me I get to 204.8 according to my ultra gauge.

One thing for me it only happens when in 5th gear cruising on the freeway, I can drop it down to 4th and in seconds the temp drops to 195. It has me confused as to why it gets hot in 5th. Called the mechanic and he said 210 is no problem, but still it just seems too hot when compared to other members.
 
I would say on a N/A motor 10* isn't much of an issue, but with the SC'd runners 10* makes a big difference due to running lean often and fighting hotspots on the pistons.
 
I just did some quick searching about the jiggle-valve... what I could gather is that it's there to bleed air from the system. So wouldn't it make sense to have the valve at the 12 o'clock position so it could bleed the air that would have risen to the top of the waterway?

Also, sucks that ours isn't on top of the block like some other vehicles.... :violin:
 
Dutch-Runner '99 said:
I just did some quick searching about the jiggle-valve... what I could gather is that it's there to bleed air from the system. So wouldn't it make sense to have the valve at the 12 o'clock position so it could bleed the air that would have risen to the top of the waterway?

Also, sucks that ours isn't on top of the block like some other vehicles.... :violin:
Click to expand...

I agree. Many have made the same suggestion, and most engines have it that way. But...

1. The FSM says 6 o'clock.
2. It runs cooler that way in real life.

So who cares what makes sense? My theory is it has nothing to do with the jiggle valve, which really should have little effect on a running engine where the 'stat is fully open, and where all the air has been bled out anyway, but some other aspect of the orientation of the 'stat.
 
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TheDurk said:
I agree. Many have made the same suggestion, and most engines have it that way. But...

1. The FSM says 6 o'clock.
2. It runs cooler that way in real life.

So who cares what makes sense? My theory is it has nothing to do with the jiggle valve, which really should have little effect on a running engine where the 'stat is fully open, and where all the air has been bled out anyway, but some other aspect of the orientation of the 'stat.
Click to expand...



Plus the jiggle valve is closed when there is coolant flow. It only relaxes when the engine is off.
 
Ok. So jiggle valve is at 12:00. It was at 0800. Temp still at 203. No change. I've cooled the motor and checked for air at the cap. All looks good. Should I be concerned??
 
As long as it's staying under 210 your fine but that only gives you about 7 degrees to play with when it's hot outside or your pulling hills. Is your radiator cap good?
 
Put the jiggle valve between 5 and 6 o'clock. Bleed for air bubbles by leaving the cap off and turning on the heat to Max.

How tight did you make the drive belts when you put the new ones on?

203 driving and at idle?
 
Lizard333 said:
Ok. So jiggle valve is at 12:00. It was at 0800. Temp still at 203. No change. I've cooled the motor and checked for air at the cap. All looks good. Should I be concerned??
Click to expand...

Why did you move it to the 12 o'clock position after know that the FSM says 6 o'clock?
 
Also when burping the system I always park with the nose raised up on a hill to get the remaining air out...

Hopefully it was a typo and the OP meant to say 6 O'Clock position.... If not, I can see this happening in his near future: :doh:
 
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Ok. Did the change. The jiggle valve was moved to 600. My Haines manual was very clear the the valve should be at 1200 give or take 15 degrees either way.

Anyhow, temp went from 203 to 185. I'm amazed. I can't believe the difference. How a "jiggle valve" placement makes that much of a difference is crazy.

Place the t-stat with the jiggle valve at 0600. Period. It really works.
 
Good to hear!

I lived in Flag for three months back in the summer of 1999. Quite nice. No 4runner though for me at the time. I do miss the fishing outside of Sedona though.
 
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