Weekendclimber's Legal Green Weekendcrawler - 99 SR5 Auto 4x4 Highlander Clone

[weekendclimber]

4.88 Rear-end and new bearings and seals

Over the long weekend I had the chance to get a lot of things done that have been building up. Thank you to my beautiful wife for letting me have 3 days to leisurely get this completed while she tended to the 2 year old:trophy:. I cannot wait until he's old enough to join me out in the garage and help out:happy:

In January, I purchased a new 3rd member from ECGS with Nitro 4.88 gears and a Detroit True Trac. It was now time to get it in the truck. While I had the axles out, I figured it would be a good time to do some preventative maintenance and replace the bearings and seals. They were surely tired after 200k+ miles of forest roads and highway driving.

After pulling the tires and drums off, I popped out the ABS sensors to have a looksie. Low and behold, both of the ABS tone-rings were covered in gear oil.

Drivers side:

Passengers side:

Goopy!:

I was certainly glad that I had all the parts already purchased and waiting to be installed while putting in the new 3rd. I ended up going with Low Range Offroad Ultimate Rear Wheel Bearing Kit, which includes a different axle seal than the updated design of the OEM Toyota seal.

Got the old 3rd out and at the same time, removed all the OEM studs so that I could replace them with black oxide 5mm hex button head 10.9 steel 40mm m8x1.25 bolts. There was nothing wrong with the OEM studs, but after getting some advice from [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] and [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] in another thread, I decided this would definitely be an upgrade from OEM. It also makes it really easy to clean up the mating surface of the housing.

Removed old studs and cleaned up the housing:

New studs installed with some red loctite:

Now, it was time to get the new 3rd in. It was the end of the second day of working on the truck (4-5 hours Friday, 4-5 hours Saturday) and I was getting pretty worn out. I had already done the press work on the axles and getting the new studs in was about an extra hour of work. I cleaned off the housing and the diff with some mineral oil to prep the surfaces before then putting Permatex Ultra Black on for the gasket on the diff side.

I lifted it up into the housing and to my dismay, it wouldn't go all the way in. It seemed like some wasn't quite right with the fitment and something was getting hung up. I looked around on it and after about 20 minutes of fiddling with a heavy 3rd, I gave up and started doing some measuring.

New Nitro 4.88 ring gear (40mm):

Gap in the housing:

Side by side, with the old 3rd at the top:

It seemed that it was getting hung up on the ring gear when trying to get it in. I emailed ECGS and put out a post for advice on the forum. Got some good advice on getting it past the sticking point and had a plan of attack for Monday morning to get this done.

Monday morning rolled around and ECGS, to my surprise, responded with almost the exact same advice I got from the forum: "Put it up in place and then twist the pinion flange to walk the ring gear past the hang up." Gave it another go and then found it was actually the side bearing adjusters that were getting hung up. Out came the BFH and I was able to pound it past the hang up and into the housing. Whew!!

SUCCESS!!

Now it was time to get the axles in and make sure the seals were seated properly around the retainers. This where things got interesting. While waiting for the new housing studs to arrive on Saturday, I got all the press work done. This was pretty straight forward with the new tool that [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] recommended from his new Toyota Rear Axle Seal/Bearing Replacement (Part 2) video.

Tool installed:

Getting ready to press:

On installation, things got interesting compared to what has been thoroughly documented on this forum. At 5mm of exposed polished axle, the "grease test" showed the seal was wiping the retainer clean:

I slowly pressed the retainer and ABS tone-ring further and further outboard until I got what I thought was a good seating of the seal. I ended up with just over 10mm of exposed polished axle:

I thought maybe that the seal wasn't seated in the axle housing all the way, but was able to confirm that the depth of the seal matched the originals that I was replacing:

Here's what the seal looks like:

If I had to do it again, I would most likely get the ABS version of the Low Range Offroad kit which has the newly designed OEM Toyota axle seal. I'm still contemplating whether to purchase new OEM seals and replace these when I change the gear oil after the 500 mile break-in period on the new 3rd.

 

[weekendclimber]

Just a standard old oil change over the weekend. Installed a Fumoto F-103N drain for future oil changes to hopefully simplify things a bit and eliminate the need to remove the skids. Not sure if I'll be able to reach up there and do that, but I guess we'll see.

Also remounted the front light bar that I took off, no pictures of that yet.

 

[weekendclimber]

Wireless Charging RAM Mount

So, I've been using the RAM Mount for a while now and have been really liking how solid it is. The only thing that I don't really dig about it, is the fact that I've got to plug in the phone each time I throw it up there. #firstworldproblems

A while back I got a couple wireless chargers for the wife and I. I use it all the time at my desk at work, but she's literally used her's once and it's since sat in a draw. I started fiddling with it and found it fits perfectly in between the arms on the RAM Mount.

Before:

A little super glue, and after:

I've gone caseless for the last few months on the phone, but this particular wireless charger is still thin enough to allow a significant amount of the rubber on the arms to contact the phone. I don't think a thicker case would really matter. Hey [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION], I think you might like this mod!

 

[Reinout]

Did a [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] modification over the weekend. I think it was one of his videos that showed the door sill screw nuts/catches that go me thinking about doing this. My door sill plastic has not been securely attached for years now and this was just the thing to get them back tight and in place.

Got a baker's dozen of these nylon nuts/catches:

Hey, I looked these parts up, but can't find them. Where'd you get them?

 

[weekendclimber]

Hey, I looked these parts up, but can't find them. Where'd you get them?

Got these from NAPA. They were like $7

Here's a linky: Balkamp 665-2083

 

[TonyB66]

Just a standard old oil change over the weekend. Installed a Fumoto F-103N drain for future oil changes to hopefully simplify things a bit and eliminate the need to remove the skids. Not sure if I'll be able to reach up there and do that, but I guess we'll see.

Also remounted the front light bar that I took off, no pictures of that yet.

With my RCI skids I can reach this valve from above the skid, squeezing my hand and forearm right behind the radiator, driver side.

I imagine that black Fumoto piece is a safety clip to help prevent accidental movement? If so, I didn't have one with mine...

 

[Reinout]

thanks!!

 

[weekendclimber]

I imagine that black Fumoto piece is a safety clip to help prevent accidental movement? If so, I didn't have one with mine...

You are correct. Those are to prevent accidental flippage [sic]. I think they started including those with their new design options. I still need to put the tubing I have on it to redirect the flow when I do the next oil change.

 

[phattyduck]

With my RCI skids I can reach this valve from above the skid, squeezing my hand and forearm right behind the radiator, driver side.

I imagine that black Fumoto piece is a safety clip to help prevent accidental movement? If so, I didn't have one with mine...

That's how I do it with mine. I have a hose that just barely sticks out below the skid plate that I just leave on there all the time...

And I wouldn't worry about the extra safety clip. I've driven a few hundred thousand miles with exposed valves on lowered vehicles (some with no plastic fairings, even) with no problems. With a metal skid plate, there's 0 chance of accidental flippage.

-Charlie

 

[JZiggy]

Hey, can you give us some more details about the power inverter you put in the driver's side rear panel? I've always thought that that space should be utilized for something. How'd you work around the black box full of stuffing that is there from the factory?

 

[weekendclimber]

Hey, can you give us some more details about the power inverter you put in the driver's side rear panel? I've always thought that that space should be utilized for something. How'd you work around the black box full of stuffing that is there from the factory?

I basically used that black box as the mounting point. I added some metal straps around it and secure those to the back side of the interior panel to make it a bit more secure. I'm going to be revisiting it soon to check to make sure nothing is coming loose. I had to break off the plastic rivets that originally hold it to the back side of the interior panel and I'm afraid it could be coming apart after 2+ years of living back there. Might use some liquid nails or something similar (JB Weld, etc.).

I then opened up the inverter and pulled the controls, LCD, and dingus end of the guts out to mount on the piece of acrylic shown here:

I unfortunately didn't take any pics of the back side of it all mounted up behind the interior panel. I'll be in there again soon when I run an antenna wire for the CB I'll be putting in it, and will take some more photos then. Here are some picture I took when mocking it up (you can see I broke off the plastic tabs in the upper corners):

 

[JZiggy]

I like it, thanks!

Just an idea: if you need to glue something to the tan panel try Loctite plastics bonding system. It has a little primer pen you use first. It actually works really well on the PP/PE that the panels are made of. JB weld (epoxy) won't stick to it. I think the black box is ABS so most glues will stick to that fine.

 

[weekendclimber]

I like it, thanks!

Just an idea: if you need to glue something to the tan panel try Loctite plastics bonding system. It has a little primer pen you use first. It actually works really well on the PP/PE that the panels are made of. JB weld (epoxy) won't stick to it. I think the black box is ABS so most glues will stick to that fine.

Thanks for the tip! :thumb:

I'll definitely do that. Currently the metal strap is screwed into where the plastic rivets were, which at the time seemed pretty secure. I need to take another look though to make sure it's still holding up.

 

[phattyduck]

That black box/tube is there for sound reduction of the cabin air exhaust (leads to the vent behind the bumper on that corner. Delete if you want...

And make sure you have the flap on the vent or you will be filling the cabin with dust offroad. :thumb:

-Charlie

 

[weekendclimber]

Hey [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION], as promised, here are the photos on the backside of the panel with the inverter all lined up.

The strap is not connected to the "black box", it only holds it from moving in and out:

The strap is secured in the mounts where the plastic rivets used to be. The screws I'm using really bite into it:

Here's where the wires come out to the panel. I thought about putting the top part of the case back on, but it would still be fairly open to the outside:

Wires come out the bottom. The ground goes all the way back to the battery for a good solid connection:

 

[weekendclimber]

I've got my rear all torn out for both setting up a CB antenna on one of [MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION]'s mounts. I'm doing it on the passenger side with the assumption that the swing-out will clear it.

Also, I've taken the other side apart as well in order to run a wire for the backup lighting that will be in the light buckets of the 4xInnovations rear bumper that's on the way. The plan is to have a SPDT switch that allows for those lights to be switched on, switched off, or on when backing up.

Here's a diagram, along with the location of the splice needed to tie into the reverse lights:

Driver's J/B:

Pin location on the driver's J/B:

 

[weekendclimber]

Here's a quick update on things:

This showed up on my door step earlier in the month. It's off getting painted now as I don't have the space to do it right now.

In preparation, I've got wiring ready for the backup lights that go into the cutouts, license plate lights, and new flat-4 tow wiring. I'm going to swap out the old '96-00 style pressure vent for the new '01-02 version and run all the wiring out the factory hole there. I'll have plugs for everything to make it easy to remove if I ever need to (you're welcome future self).

In addition, while removing the factory tow hitch I encountered some of the first problematic rust on this rig (knock on wood). It seems on the passenger side that the nuts-on-a-stick that are used to get the two furthest forward nuts in place were rusted onto the bolts. I was able to get them about 4-5 turns before they broke the stick they are weld too. This caused the stick to break in half and then wrap around the bolt heads inside the frame.

Hard to see it here:

After the sawzall:

Not too big of a problem, and I got to buy more tools :eyebrows:

Also, I wired up the rear window so I can roll it up with the key fob. I used the post [MENTION=252501]YourUncleFats[/MENTION] created to order everything needed a as a guide for the wiring. For me, this is a really good mod because I somehow keep rolling down the back window accidentally when getting out of my truck.

"Factory"ish wiring diagram (see [MENTION=252501]YourUncleFats[/MENTION] post for parts):

All wired and tidy:

 

[weekendclimber]

More updates as I wait for the rear bumper to come back from paint:

Having the two hitch bolts rusted up had me a little worried about the condition of the frame back there. I got some Rustoleum chassis paint in order to clean things up a bit before putting the bumper on in the next week or so. Hit the whole area with a wire wheel on the angle grinder and spayed it down. Looks great now:

Oops, hit the exhaust a bit :-/

Also installed the updated rear pressure vent. And thanks to a post from [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] (don't remember which thread it was) that I saw, I also picked up a Daystar Universal Firewall Boot. It fits perfectly in the pressure vent to seal out the weather. I'll end up having backup and license plate lights, trailer, and backup camera wiring all coming out of there:

While I was under there, I also changed out the rear diff gear oil since it is finally beyond the 500 mile break-in period for the 4.88's. Everything looked good on the magnet of the drain plug and I refilled with the recommended Lucas Oil 85w-140.

One gripe I have from ECGS (or at least my lack of noticing this) was that I didn't realize the diff housing wasn't painted when it came to me. Not a big deal, but I'll now need to wire wheel it and then paint it to stop this from getting worse:

 

[phattyduck]

Toyota doesn't always paint cast iron bits at the factory...

(rear diff from my Alltrac at around 30 years old)

Though, the 4Runner diffs are painted/coated from the factory.

-Charlie

 

[weekendclimber]

Toyota doesn't always paint cast iron bits at the factory...

(rear diff from my Alltrac at around 30 years old)

Though, the 4Runner diffs are painted/coated from the factory.

-Charlie

Yeah, it just looks so funny with all the black stuff under there and then an orange diff uke: