Weight saving plan: What have you done?

Terrapod

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Racing and track weekends was a former passion of mine. And...as such, everything vehicle related is weight dependent. Handling, gas mileage, etc. Shaving weight...often times in extremes was everything for the track. I don't think overlanding (or...pick whatever word you want) should be any different.

My plan for long distance trips forward is to reduce the weight of my gear. Thus saving gas ad giving me better range, etc. Not taking this into account sounds bizarre to me.

How many others out there think the same? What have you done?


C
 
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Kept my body weight to a reasonable (height and build dependent) 170-175lbs


Diminishing returns are going to kill you and I think this is a loosing battle. If you have fun with it, great and I get it (AutoX Miata) but a lot of what is done is to add utility and protection - you can manage the weight in doing those but you still add weight

Alu. vs. Steel
Group 34 vs. 31
Skinny spare vs. full size
etc......

or just add a extra 5 gallon gas can,.....if what determines if you make it home safely - is an extra 15miles of range, you dun messed up" :usa2:
 
i've changed most of my camping gear to more backpacking style stuff; replaced a folding table and fancy cooking table with just a single small lightweight aluminum table; 90% of my meals are things i can cook with a jetboil and/or campfire so no need for tons of cooking supplies or a cook top; instead of a heavy RTT I use a military cot and a tarp; use fairly light LFD crossbars instead of a heavy rack and only carry what i need up there for the specific trip; keep the vehicle as stock as possible.

i do have a fridge but i'm not sure if that is any heavier when you factor in ice (it may even be lighter, no idea), but use a single battery setup instead of dual battery for weight savings.

i still may bring the big bulky stuff (big tent, 10'x10' popup, folding table, propane fire pit) on certain trips, but generally if it's just me i stay pretty lightweight.
 
Kept my body weight to a reasonable (height and build dependent) 170-175lbs


Diminishing returns are going to kill you and I think this is a loosing battle. If you have fun with it, great and I get it (AutoX Miata) but a lot of what is done is to add utility and protection - you can manage the weight in doing those but you still add weight

Alu. vs. Steel
Group 34 vs. 31
Skinny spare vs. full size
etc......

or just add a extra 5 gallon gas can,.....if what determines if you make it home safely - is an extra 15miles of range, you dun messed up" :usa2:


Overall, totally agree. However...I look at it this way - simplicity is my preferred method of camp. Has been for as long as I have done it. What I have learned...there are more out there like me that try to shoot for the less is more approach.

I thought this thread might be a great place to share what folks have done in the simplicity and weight savings dept.

C
 
I removed my roof rack and switched to a hitch basket that I can remove when not in use. I gained 2 MPG's. I also switched from 285/70/17 to 305/65/17..very minimal change. I mean, there isn't much to do other than adding weight to make it more capable off-road.
 
Racing and track weekends was a former passion of mine. And...as such, everything vehicle related is weight dependent. Handling, gas mileage, etc. Shaving weight...often times in extremes was everything for the track. I don't think overlanding (or...pick whatever word you want) should be any different.

My plan for long distance trips forward is to reduce the weight of my gear. Thus saving gas ad giving me better range, etc. Not taking this into account sounds bizarre to me.

How many others out there think the same? What have you done?


C

I stopped drinking Mountain Dew and beer. Down 10lbs so far, shooting for 60lbs. Wish me luck.

As far as the 4Runner goes, I removed the rear seats....
 
I look very hard at every pound.

So - hidden winch mount with synthetic winch rope. No plate bumper.

Rear minimalist bumper skid set rather than full plate rear bumper.

Minimalist rock sliders. A little engineering on sliders goes a long way. They don't need to weigh more than about 50lbs per side.

No roof basket. I use 8020 cross bars on the OEM rails, then use quick attach t-slot nuts on everything I put up there. Awning goes on/off in literally 30 seconds. So does everything else up there. I only carry what I actually need for the trip. Usually Awning, 100 watt solar panel, and high lift. I may buy a solar blanket at some point - you can get 100 watt setup under 20lbs vs about 60 for my current one.

The rest is inside weight. I think a fridge weighs less than a similar size cooler with ice. I have a Dometic 55L fridge and it's very similar weight to my Pelican ~50L cooler empty. I carry water - but also a filter anywhere I know I'll have fresh filterable water available. If I'm in the desert - water is part of the weight planning. Not much I can do to make it lighter...

There are some other little things you can go crazy with - like taking hard liquor instead of beer. Also as a side note - going fast in the whoops with a fridge full of bottles of beer is a bad idea. I did this two weeks ago and ended up with beer and broken glass soup. :( Beer cans are a good choice!

The other weight I carry most times is tools. I've been pretty careful about what I carry - but my hand tool kit weighs 50lbs at least. And that's about the minimum tools that still allow for a full set of sockets from 10-21mm and a full set of wrenches, screw drivers, pliers, and all the electrical connectors and spare wire, etc. I'd like to pair this down. I carry a spare complete front axle. And may take a compete rear drive shaft on some rock crawling trips if I can find one locally in the next week or so. It doesn't weigh much and it's the most likely spot I think I'll damage a critical component.

The rest is typically camping gear. I can go as light as fully backpacking setup and bivy sack, or more typical 4 person dome tent, air mattress, sleeping bags, etc. In either event I'm still far lighter than a RTT. RTT's are mostly really heavy. The Yakima one is the only one I know of with light weight fabric that weights under 100lbs.

That's been my general philosophiy regarding weight and gear distribution. Nothing on the outside that doesn't need to be outside for wind resistance management. Nothing on the inside that I don't reasonably need.

On 34" tires - I still get a corrected 18-19mpg on the highway. I suspect keeping OEM rake is a huge deal in terms of wind resistance. Trying to "level" the suspension and putting a big roof rack on are probably the two worst choices you could make for highway mileage.

The other big weight adder is people. Traveling with only 2 people means you're saving 400lbs just in weight of people compared to a crew of 4. Not to mention all the extra stuff they bring with. Families are just inherently at a disadvantage. Nothing you can do about that. But - they can get out for a really technical section, so it's not such a big issue on the trails for the most part.
 
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I haven't added too much to my truck (4th gen), but weight is something I def think about.

If it were purely up to me, I'd be a minimalist too. But the reality is that I'd like to also involve my wife and kids. Being that additional weight seems unavoidable for me, I've thought of it more on the terms of weight distribution. I'm lifted, so naturally the COG has risen as well. I'm not a physicist, so my reasoning may be irrational, but I have kept the bulk of my additional weight below the frame with things like steel skids, sliders and a heavier wheel/tire combo. I also run spacers so I have a marginally wider than stock wheel base as well. I decided to go Prinsu due to the lighter weight of a full rack up top as well as the low profile.

My changes probably have little to no impact for my COG, and they certainly don't help my trucks workload from a stop. But, I find that the biggest thing for my cruising range has been the rack. I previously had a Rola rack, and would struggle to get 17.5mpgs on the highway (empty rack). My first long trip with the Prinsu I averaged 21mpg. My goal is to use the rack only when necessary, and utilize the interior as much as possible.

Just some of my thoughts. Def curious to hear what others do.
 
How much weight savings does it take to increase mileage 10%? Cuz a 4 gallon gas can isn’t all that heavy and I’m wondering if it really makes that much of a difference. This assumes you are comparing similarly capable rigs, not a pavement princess versus armored up and built for trails.
 
on my 4runner, lighter rims.

As others have mentioned, i have more of a problem of keeping the weight of the vehicle reasonable with every modification. I've tried to keep the weight reasonable with aluminum armor and roof rack, but there are areas where I can't cut the weight (engine bay and cargo bay).

I'm pretty weight conscious these days, mainly because it reduces overall driveability and enjoyment for me.
 
I'm seriously trying to resist a dual battery setup and make due with one battery. Ultimately would like to make that one battery a lifepo4 if possible. Then maybe a goal zero lithium 400 for the fridge. Of course all this costs more than a dual battery setup but it will sure save on weight.
 
This is an interesting discussion and been on my mind a bit as I just bought my first 4R this weekend. Coming from a crew cab half ton truck that had plenty of room and tons of power, I have already told myself to be careful about how I accessorize and load this rig. I know I'm capable of minimizing my gear but I'm also notorious for way overpacking because I've always had the room to do so.

We'll see how well I do with it in the near future. Rig just turned 100 miles tonight and haven't done anything to it yet.
 
I'm curious what kind of mileage you guys are trying to get?

I just completed a 300 mile trip, 1 passenger + our gear.
I have a lift, 275/70/17's, a gobi rack, dual batteries and BBHWM with a Warn winch, and ARB drawers in back full of tools. Also ran the A/C on low most of the way.

19.5 mpg.......I don't think it gets much better than that.
 
I also have experience developing cars for the track, but my main motivation on the 4Runner is to keep the weight down, as it will eventually spend a lot of time doing double-duty pulling a fairly heavy travel trailer and doing some moderate off road touring when the trailer gets unhitched. Short of replacing steel body panels with fiberglass, or making the wheels out of something unspeakably exotic, there aren't a lot of ways to reduce the weight, so the biggest challenge is to resist the urge to make modifications that add weight and/or drag unless you really need them.

As an example, when I switched out the stock tires for BFG K02's, I stuck with the stock size and C load range to keep the weight down, and offset the remaining weight increase of the tires with lighter Method Roost wheels. Similarly, after bashing the stock skid plates a few times, I replaced them with a thicker RCI skidplate, but ordered it in aluminum, as their aluminum front skid is exactly the same weight as the two factory steel pieces.

After many years of trying every conceivable product for sports cars, I've settled down and now try to only buy the things that experience tells me I NEED. This approach also helps me save some money. So in the case of the 4Runner, no sliders, no full skids, no steel bumpers, no built-in winch, no aftermarket roof rack, no roof-mounted light bars, no secondary battery. I did compromise the drag somewhat with a 1" front lift, but the dented skid plates seemed to indicate the need for a bit more front ground clearance.

Don't get me wrong, some of the fully built-out rigs I've seen are really cool, but so far I don't seem to need all that, and adding all that weight along with the weight of the trailer comes with the penalty of increased stress on the drivetrain and the suspension...
 

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