What Am I Going to Do Right - Audio Version

[iowajosh]

The reviews for the $1XX polk components are all good and there are a lot of them, not just 10. I have no idea what they sound like but I didn't find many other things in the price range with as good of reviews.

The infinity reference are also sometimes called bright/harsh. But I've also read to just point the tweeter at the floor and make them act how you want. I figured I could try that. Also, the more leaks I seal up the more full bodied the sound got. Now I'm digging them but my first attempt at sealing up the doors was not adequate.

They are pretty efficient speakers so they get plenty loud on the head alone. The tighter the door is sealed, the farther they will go without clipping, it seems.

 

[tbst]

What did you use as far as dealing the actual holes in the door? Like between the inner door and the outer door?

 

[iowajosh]

There are two big holes in the inner door skin. The big bottom one is the easy one. I cut two pieces of plywood. One that fit in the hole, one just a little larger for a lip and glued them together and screwed them in the door. Really you just need the outer one but the inner one makes it a lot easier to keep in place when you're trying to screw it down and the weight should be a good thing also.

The hole by the lock sucks. I tried just putting P'nS on the plastic but it is too loose. I ended up cutting up the top of a rubbermaid tub. It is pretty easy to cut and mush into place and screw down. Covered some of it with P'nS and duct tape. I don't want it to get hot out and have my door handle not work. It isn't the most fun job to start but it gets a little easier.

 

[tbst]

Yeah, I had to cut the plastic to temporarily mount a crossover in there. Probably going to regret it.

Do the speakers sound better now at least?

 

[iowajosh]

Night and day better! It was really harsh before. You really have to peel that plastic off of the inner door at some point and clean it up. In the past I've always treated that plastic sheet like it was gold but it has to go. I tried to keep just the little bit over the hole in the corner by the lock but didn't work that way.

Even around the plastic speaker holder thing I found more leaks. I ended up going from the edge of the speaker down over the edge of the holder and onto the door. Lots of heatgun to get some seal around the wires too. I didn't strip all the wires off like I've seen pictues of. Didn't cover every square inch of the door.

If you were just gonna set a high pass on the door speakers I think this would all matter a lot less but that is not my plan.

Having never done this before, it was a neat experience but kind of longer than I thought it would be.

 

[BrianSD_42]

If you were just gonna set a high pass on the door speakers I think this would all matter a lot less but that is not my plan.

I set my Alpine 4-channel to 80 HZ for the door speakers. This will "center" the curve at 80 HZ => lowering the decibel level below 80. Refer to the manual for a full explanation.

:hatsoff:

 

[BrianSD_42]

brianemc2_42, I have done some thinking about the components that I have. Returning them to amazon if always an option. I have found some Infinity Kappas 60.9cs on Amazon for $125 or $10 more than the GF paid for the Polks for Xmas.

The reviews I have been read have either been excellent, or as mentioned in this thread, have been that they are bright. Have you experienced this?

I have considered this for two reasons. First, the outstanding reviews of the Kappas (minus them being bright). Next, it adds makes my "system" expandable in the future, as I can add rear speakers and have 75 RMS to all speakers, rather than 50 RMS.

I know you cannot hear the Polks so it's hard to tell. However, if you really are that impressed by the Kappas... Returning the Polks would seem reasonable.

I don't really want to bad mouth the Polk's. They are supposed to be really good but I haven't heard them directly. I will say that Polk / Infinity / Harmon-Kardon are actually all the same company but with differing product lines.

You say they are "bright" well I assume you mean that the tweeter is a bit higher than normal. IMO, it really depends on what amp you are running. Also note that the Kappas come with a external cross-over piece that has a -3db button. I think I have mine set to neutral but it has been 2 years.

Since installing the Alpine 4-channel amp, I noticed they sounded a lot more even than when I was running off the head unit only.

The Polks are probably really good, maybe even great. The Kappas are great and crystal clean audio.


:frog:

 

[BrianSD_42]

Also, the more leaks I seal up the more full bodied the sound got. Now I'm digging them but my first attempt at sealing up the doors was not adequate.

What do you mean "leaks I seal up"? I used a sound dampening material on the doors but they are not airtight and I don't have baffles. The door itself is acting as an open air box.

 

[tbst]

I went to get some Peel n Seal. It is $18 for a 25' by 6'' piece. So 12.5 sq ft for $18 plus tax. I may as well go with edead for that rate. (There was some talk about it earlier in the thread.)

And an update on what I have on order. Hopefully it will come by this weekend and hopefully the weather won't suck.

 

[iowajosh]

Ha that is a lot of $ it adds up to. I got my baby sub delivered today. Need to clean off the tablesaw for further action. I'm planning on a little box behind my seat.

 

[iowajosh]

You could totally entertain me with a running total. I may wonder what better speakers would sound like but I haven't been to a speaker display room in 20 years.

 

[cordrayj1]

I would strongly not recommend you attaching the amp to your sub box. Doing so will shorten the life of your amplifier. I have had several cases where I get people telling me that their amps stopped working. Upon inspection, components inside the amp had come apart. Its rare, but it can happen. The constant vibrations from the sub and box are sometimes a little too much. Just my 2 cents. :hatsoff:

never had a problem with mine....my sub (with amp attached) roll around in the back of the 4runner all the time...just saying.

 

[tbst]

You could totally entertain me with a running total. I may wonder what better speakers would sound like but I haven't been to a speaker display room in 20 years.

You are trying to make me sick. But here you go.

Ordered the enclosure this morning.

never had a problem with mine....my sub (with amp attached) roll around in the back of the 4runner all the time...just saying.

Hopefully I will rig up a way to attach it to the mount points. Nothing drives me more crazy than stuff rolling around in the back.

Overall, I agree, I don't think it would hurt an amp that much. However, in the end all mine will be hidden, just because I wan't to be able to pull out the subwoofer box easier than pulling out the subwoofer box and amp. Laziness.

 

[cordrayj1]

when i go wheeling i do strap down my sub box. that can get a little dangerous if its not strapped down.

 

[IanB]

My system
Alpine Deck w/ 4V pre-outs, tilt, awesomeness, endless features ect.
Alpine 4 Channel Amp 75x4 RMS
Infinity Kappa 6.5" Components (front)
Infinity Kappa 6x9" 3-way (rear, some cutting required)

MTX 6500D Amp
MTX Dual 12" Subs (soon to be replaced with Alpine)


How does it sound?

=> F#cking amazing. Sooooo much better than cheap speakers and a cheap amp.



:beer:

Do you have any pics of what is involved with putting 6x9's in the rear doors, or of the finished product?

 

[tbst]

Got more stuff in the mail today. Not really sure how this is supposed to work. See below. Am I just supposed to stuff the wire in there even though the wire is bigger than the little cylindrical pieces in there?

 

[IanB]

You cut the insulator off 1/2-3/4" back (you'll have to see what works with that specific fuse block), and then fit just the metal part of the wire into the small holes, then tighten the clamp down to hold it there. The clamp needs to be backed out 1st by the looks of the pics.

 

[tbst]

Yeah, I understand how it works mechanically.

The clamp is not a clamp. It doesn't have a cut in it so I can't stretch it over the wire.

Secondly, the wire doesn't fit in the fuse at all, clamp or no clamp. It is bigger than both.

 

[IanB]

Yeah, I understand how it works mechanically.

The clamp is not a clamp. It doesn't have a cut in it so I can't stretch it over the wire.

Secondly, the wire doesn't fit in the fuse at all, clamp or no clamp. It is bigger than both.

So, did you buy 4ga wire and an 8ga fuse?

 

[iowajosh]

I made a box slightly too big for my baby sub. Also found out cheap amp and receiver have limited crossover options. But, still neat to play with.