What Am I Going to Do Right - Audio Version

[iowajosh]

I just opened that wire kit. The red thing is a seal. Goes around the wire. It stretches.

 

[tbst]

This is what I get when trying to get the wire into the fuse holder. Albeit, after many attempts.

What am I doing wrong? I tried a fresh piece several times as well. It should just work.

 

[iowajosh]

Can you find the set screw?

 

[tbst]

I mean, I can "get it work work" by cutting off some of the strands. But that defeats the purposes.

If you haven't wire it yet, coat hanger with the ends cut off through the trunk release grommet works well.

 

[Qyota]

In this picture, it looks like the fitting has an insert. Did you remove the insert? I assume so, but you didn't mention it.

 

[IanB]

After looking closer at the above pic, it looks like there is a sleeve in there that you would use if you had 8ga wire, or remove if you were using 4ga wire. Take the set screw all the way out, and see if that sleeve is removable, if so you should have room for your wire now.

 

[tbst]

In this picture, it looks like the fitting has an insert. Did you remove the insert? I assume so, but you didn't mention it.

After looking closer at the above pic, it looks like there is a sleeve in there that you would use if you had 8ga wire, or remove if you were using 4ga wire. Take the set screw all the way out, and see if that sleeve is removable, if so you should have room for your wire now.

Right, that is for 8 gauge. I removed it before trying to but the wire in.

I think the problem is that manufacturers are making 4 gauge wire bigger than standard. However, the hardware to go alone with the 4 gauge wire is not bigger than standard. I came to this conclusion, regarding the hardware, from comparing the power distribution block to the in-line fuse. Both had the same diameter inputs, meaning that they are both made for conventional 4 guage.

This is for definetely true with the KnuKonceptz. They claim their wire is 8 mm (dont doubt it) however the AWG standard is 5.189 for 4 gauge wire.

I think this "enlarging" is due to the fact that most amplifier wire, including this one, uses CCA wire, which is dramatically less "efficient" than regular 100% copper wire.

Now that I did was just cut some strands away so it fit "nicer". I would rather lose a few strands than have a mess of strands.

Power distribution block shown below. Nice and clean.

 

[tbst]

However, I am an idiot.

So I wired everything up, turned the key on and NOTHING.

Then I realized that the power distribution block is messed up.

Am I supposed to run wires across those terminals?

Yes, I am slowwww.

 

[OHP]

Fuses go in there.

Sent you a PM

 

[iowajosh]

I was like "boy these wiring kits are cheaper than buying wire." And then it turns out the wire is what the wire is. I got one wiring kit in. Took longer than I expected.

 

[IanB]

Fuses go in there.

Bang on, did the fuse block not come with fuses?

 

[tbst]

Negative. Frustrating.

Not the best, but tell me why this won't work? I am going from 4 gauge to 4 gauge, so no reason for a fuse, that I see. And I have an inline fuse about 6" from the battery.

 

[OHP]

Technically that will work, but its not the best way to do it. The purpose of the fuses at the distribution block is to open the circuit as close to the amp as possible if the amp shorts for some reason. The D block fuses protect the amps and the main fuse under the hood protects the whole electrical system. (Vehicle and audio) My system has two amps and only the fuse under the hood. I split the 4ga at my capacitor. I should probably have fuses at the cap but I've never had any problems out of it.

 

[BrianSD_42]

I don't think fuses in such a small D-block are necessary at all. Especially for a system running < 1000W RMS. I ran a system with 800W RMS for several years without a D-block at all. Now i have a 4G block without fuses, everything works great.

Companies like Tsumani like to pitch their product as a "d-block with fuses", as if a comsumer with a low / mid grade system needs it. It is actually just another way to sell something.

Think about it like this:
* you have a 4g fuse next to the battery
* you have several fuses onboard each amp to protect it
* each amp also has onboard circuitry to automatically cutoff the amp and portect it if a short happens.

Do you need another fuse, making the total 3+ for a single circuit?

No! Not for your setup.

(sent from my Droid X2)

 

[tbst]

Technically that will work, but its not the best way to do it. The purpose of the fuses at the distribution block is to open the circuit as close to the amp as possible if the amp shorts for some reason. The D block fuses protect the amps and the main fuse under the hood protects the whole electrical system. (Vehicle and audio) My system has two amps and only the fuse under the hood. I split the 4ga at my capacitor. I should probably have fuses at the cap but I've never had any problems out of it.

We will just hope for now shorts!

I have to use the d-block as I have no cap to split it. When I bought it, I figured it would "distribute" as advertised, I didn't realize I would need fuses.

I don't think fuses in such a small D-block are necessary at all. Especially for a system running < 1000W RMS. I ran a system with 800W RMS for several years without a D-block at all. Now i have a 4G block without fuses, everything works great.

Companies like Tsumani like to pitch their product as a "d-block with fuses", as if a comsumer with a low / mid grade system needs it. It is actually just another way to sell something.

Think about it like this:
* you have a 4g fuse next to the battery
* you have several fuses onboard each amp to protect it
* each amp also has onboard circuitry to automatically cutoff the amp and portect it if a short happens.

Do you need another fuse, making the total 3+ for a single circuit?

No! Not for your setup.

(sent from my Droid X2)

I agree wholeheardly. That was my thinking when I realized I needed fuses there. I didn't have them, and was annoyed at the thought of spending $12 on them. So I spent $3.5 on some crappy battery terminal hardware from advance.

If the in-line fuse doesn't work, and the amp fuses don't blow, then it is what it is.

 

[Qyota]

Sorry guy, but you're making some bad choices here. Do it right the first time, and don't burn down your 4Runner. Get the right size fuse holder (for near the battery), and get the correct fuses for the distribution block. Don't take chances with power cables running through the cabin.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Qyota, why does he need fuses for the d-block? he alreay has 2 fuses in that circuit, there is no need for a 3rd.

This is a LOW power system, probably running 600 W RMS. If he was running a lot more then it would be different.

This car audio circuit:
4G wire with current flow of 600 W RMS.
1 fuse 12" from battery
8-10 ft of 4G cable
1 d-block (no fuse)
18" of 4G into Amp1 (with onboard fuses & protective circuitry)
18" of 4G into Amp2 (with onboard fuses & protective circuitry)

My Ohm's intuition says a 3rd fuse via the d-block is unneccessary.

One thing though, the way you have it looks "rigged" so you have to accept that if you dont get the fuses. That is why I bought a d-block without the fuse feature.

(sent via Z Droid X2)

 

[tbst]

brianemc2_42, good news. We are up and running! Putting the six thousand pieces back together will take some time though.

While I have it apart, ever since I installed my aftermarkey stereo, my antenna hasn't worked. There is a blue wire and a red wire coming from it.

Any ideas on how to wire these so it will work. I had a thread about it, but the jist of it is that I have tried connecting the blue wire to the remote wire. The red wire to the remote wire. The blue wire to the remote wire with the red to the ground. (I think, memory is bad.)

Ideas? It looks like someone replaced, I could tell when I was running the 14 gauge through the doors.

However, the blue and the red were the wires running INTO the "stock" amp.

Thanks!

Nice to hear some jams.

Now to tuning and get things back together.

 

[tbst]

Qyota, why does he need fuses for the d-block? he alreay has 2 fuses in that circuit, there is no need for a 3rd.

This is a LOW power system, probably running 600 W RMS. If he was running a lot more then it would be different.

This car audio circuit:
4G wire with current flow of 600 W RMS.
1 fuse 12" from battery
8-10 ft of 4G cable
1 d-block (no fuse)
18" of 4G into Amp1 (with onboard fuses & protective circuitry)
18" of 4G into Amp2 (with onboard fuses & protective circuitry)

My Ohm's intuition says a 3rd fuse via the d-block is unneccessary.

One thing though, the way you have it looks "rigged" so you have to accept that if you dont get the fuses. That is why I bought a d-block without the fuse feature.

(sent via Z Droid X2)

Yeah, I could still put fuses in there. However, once again agreeing, what little I remember from EE, there would have to be two failures for anything to happen. First, the in-line fuse 6" from the batter would have to fail. Second, the amp fuses would have to fail.

However, Qtoya, there is merit in what you are saying. Another fuse CANNOT hurt. I am planning on doing it just to clean up the d-block if nothing else. I just need to be able to use my car again... So I can go get rear axle seals and replace them...

 

[BrianSD_42]

glad to hear you're up and running.

I don't know the details on the wiring but if you do a search you should be able to find the info. there are multipl e threads going over the wiring pretty recently.