What are "essential" or otherwise popular upgrades?

[Schwooby]

I'm new to the "scene", so I'm not sure what people really do to their runners. Lift kits are obvious, but what about performance parts? New intakes/cams? Exhaust?

 

[thatoneguy]

I'm new to the "scene", so I'm not sure what people really do to their runners. Lift kits are obvious, but what about performance parts? New intakes/cams? Exhaust?

It entirely depends on what you're doing to it.

I believe these older engines, the 22re and 3zve, are way too past their prime to pump performance money into. I do like 22re headers though, and some people put fancy cams in to their liking.

First important bit is which year you have. 84-85 have the very different solid front axle, which is narrower than the IFS, and has a narrow rear axle to match. 86-95 have the independent front end. Wider and (intended to be) more comfortable and less rollover prone on-road than the solid axle. IFS trucks have the wider (heard someone claim it was tougher as well) rear end.

If you're looking for a lift, options are endless. People with IFS either stay stock, slap BJ spacers in for clearance for ~33's, often hammering out a pinch weld, and some go all out for an IFS long-travel full suspension kit. These use longer T100 Cv's, I'm pretty sure track width is increased, and many members here have long travel kits installed to great satisfaction. The upper limit is swapping an IFS truck to a solid axle. Pricey, and not getting into details here.

People with 84's or 85's have the solid axle, generally stronger offroad, although birfield strength is usually the first problem to run into, once 35's or higher are installed with a locker. Often with a decent lift, crossover steering on these trucks is installed, to get rid of the push-pull steering these two years come with.

Now that I got carried away with a pointless Toyota history lesson, it just depends what you want for the truck.

Want a weekend camping rig? Leave it stock, maybe get some bumpers you like, get some nice tires. Want to hit decent trails? Consider a small lift, 31's-33's, any armor you may want, and a rear locker.


What year runner do you have? What do you want out of it?

 

[mikebontoft]

Trail damage.

 

[Schwooby]

I have a 93 sr5 4wd. Personally I need it to be everyday driveable with decent offroad capabilities. I hunt/go outdoors a lot, so I do see SOME mud.

I'm really in "replace what needs to be replaced" mode. 31x10.50 tires, replace the rear springs and shocks, I have to replace the headgasket/valve cover gasket. Probably need to redo the power steering soon. I'm doing the water pump and timing belt in 2 weeks when I do the gaskets. Have to replace the motor or switch on the driver door so the window will roll down. Probably going to replace the wiper motors later on. Just stuff like that.

Once that's done, maybe an exhaust and better intake. Idk.

 

[541joseph]

What engine do you have? 22re or 3.sloooow?

 

[89FourRunner]

If I had a 93 I would probably want to install manual locking hubs, be able to lock the rear, and beef up the rear end and eliminate the sag. For your needs you probably do not need a lift. You could always get a mild one with Ball joint spacers, diff drop and sway bar relocator for dirt cheap. Id rather have the hubs, a stronger rear end and the ability to lock the rear.

 

[Schwooby]

What engine do you have? 22re or 3.sloooow?

3.0 Bone stock.

 

[541joseph]

3.0 Bone stock.

Exhaust system little lift and fix whatever is broken. And maybe a cold air intake or something of the sort.

 

[crash813]

Well, there's nothing that has to done to it. And depending on what you're using it for and your bankroll, you can go all out or keep it as is. You'll find lots of stuff needs fixing on a 20+ year old car.

You're not going to get much power out of the 3.0. If thats what you want, stop the rebuild now and look at motor swap. Else, try to get it running as good as it can, close to stock. Forget exhaust, intake, blah...blah...blah. Its lipstick on a pig!

Personally I do this for mild:
- bj spacers + new longer shocks
- lift springs/spacer in the rear + new long shocks
- good tires (I like 32', some go bigger, some smaller...but if you change watch your gearing)
- diff drop

+1
- simple locker in the rear
- manual hubs up front
- upgrade gear ratios to match oversize tires you're driving

+2
- trail armor
- winch
- front locker

+3
- motor swap
- dual cases


- if you really want to keep the 3.0, think about replacing the passenger side exhaust manifold. Its what tends to heat up the head gaskets and make them go pop. You can search some more on here to learn more. Other small little tech stuff all over the boards for little stuff that can make life easier.

 

[delgadog]

everything these guys said is spot on, i'm relatively new myself to the 4runner community. i've got my truck running pretty well, still some small issues that will be remidied, i also got land cruiser springs (they'll fit on our trucks) which will lift the rear end a bit (still need to install). you can do some searching, i forget what years will fit on the truck, maybe someone will chime in. new CVs and replacing the ball joints and such. other than that, i've found this truck is great mostly stock with some added mods. i also like 31's but thats personal preference. i personally think unless you have plenty of money and you have a second or third vehicle, no need to dump a load of money to get this thing running and looking good. it sits up pretty high naturally from the factory in which it already looks "lifted", though i'm short so it seems pretty high.lol. so i like that aspect. good luck on your rig and keep us posted on what u do. some of these guys have some bad ass rigs and i wish one day mine will look almost as good. and one last thought, if you haven't done so already, check your local dealership and find out if your truck already had the head gasket recall, if not, maybe keep that in your pocket for a rainy day if/when your head gaskets go. also, there is a steering relay recall i believe. good luck!

 

[Jayzero911]

From the reading I have been doing this is my plan. I want to keep the suspension stock sense my roommate will have trouble getting in and out if I go to high with it. From what I was reading it was recommended to do the 2" BJ lift up front and get the rear to match that lift with taller coils, 2" body lift, 2" drive-train lift (cutting and welding for this), and stuff 33's under it. I wanted to do all this with out the BJ and coil lifts. The body lift should clear the 33's if I am clearing 31's already. Then the drive-train lift will give you a flat belly. I would also love to do the 3.4 swap and read its not that hard as long as you get the right parts truck. I also read I wouldn't have to re-gear for the 33's with the 3.4. Only thing I am not sure about is that a lot of people end up doing the 2" body lift to clear the hood with the 3.4 swap or cut the hood. I don't want to cut the hood and am not sure if I would end up having to cut if even with the body lift because of the drive-train lift... Anyways thats what I am looking at, that and the obvious lockers and winch (I tend to go out alone). Just my 2 cents, I'm sure someone can pick it apart cuz I'm new to 4x4's lol.

Edit: Looks like I have to look into this head gasket recall....