What can I do about this RUST?

[sport2004]

Today I looked toward the Runner and saw the loop attachment hanging from where it is supposed to be connected, was easy enough to pull it right off...:shocked:


This picture is the end of the brace it was attached to (looking from the passenger toward the driver side wheel). The brace goes right across to the other side, and the corner on the other end looks just as bad, not as bad along the length. It doesn't look like a serious weight bearing component, so I don't think the front end will collapse or anything.

Can the brace be reinforced or have new sections welded in? The installer for my suspension components did say they have worked on 4runner frames before.

Any observations/advice much appreciated, thanks...

 

[y=mx+b]

If you have a decent sized air compressor, I would invest in a needle scaler. I got the big one from Harbor Freight, and it works wonders. Needle scale anything that is crusty and rusty, more than likely you will find a few holes based on how the hook fell off. A wire wheel works as a great follow up to the needle scaler, getting all the remaining crusties and surface rust removed. From there, look into welding or finding a welder to weld up any holes that you find in the frame. Once the frame has been "fixed" do some research on some rust preventative metal treatments. I've been using Rustoleum Rust converter on some smaller parts, but not sure I would spray a whole frame with this stuff. Its worked great for me, but there might be something more industrial out there. I definitely like it better than POR15, which I've used with with marginal success. Most of POR15 is prep work, but I've still had it peel on me after scuffing and etching the metal.

 

[Monty87ls]

That frame looks nice! How difficult was it to prevent overspray? Why not do the whole frame.

To add to the answer. Find a good welder and have the front redone and any holes, the guy i used also recommended using used transmission fluid on and in the frame.

I was thinking paint it like above then add the fluid over and in it.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

 

[sport2004]

If you have a decent sized air compressor, I would invest in a needle scaler. I got the big one from Harbor Freight, and it works wonders. Needle scale anything that is crusty and rusty, more than likely you will find a few holes based on how the hook fell off. A wire wheel works as a great follow up to the needle scaler, getting all the remaining crusties and surface rust removed. From there, look into welding or finding a welder to weld up any holes that you find in the frame. Once the frame has been "fixed" do some research on some rust preventative metal treatments. I've been using Rustoleum Rust converter on some smaller parts, but not sure I would spray a whole frame with this stuff. I definitely like it better than POR15, which I've used with with marginal success. Most of POR15 is prep work, but I've still had it peel on me after scuffing and etching the metal.

This is great information, thanks. Tomorrow I plan to spend some time underneath and see what it looks like. I do know there is a good bit of loose, scaly rust which is also covered with deteriorated undercoating. Nice truck, otherwise.

Researched some and learned there can be damage even without much visible surface rust.

Thanks for the pics, also.

 

[y=mx+b]

That frame looks nice! How difficult was it to prevent overspray? Why not do the whole frame.

Not too difficult, I used a pizza box stuffed behind the frame to prevent stuff from getting on the engine. wheel well is pretty easy since I don't have to worry about it getting on any exterior paint.

Only reason I can't suggest doing the whole frame yet, is that I've only used the Rustoleum Rust Converter product in two different sections and would like to test it for a bit before making an official recommendation. It certainly works well and application is easy, but something more industrial might be out there for doing a whole frame.

 

[sport2004]

That frame looks nice! How difficult was it to prevent overspray? Why not do the whole frame.

To add to the answer. Find a good welder and have the front redone and any holes, the guy i used also recommended using used transmission fluid on and in the frame.

I was thinking paint it like above then add the fluid over and in it.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

Thanks for that, very helpful.

 

[rdruss]

Monty87ls, I've got a patch on the bottom of my frame same place and looks identicle to yours! I pulled about a pound of rust scale out of the frame there too. Other side of frame same location is solid, i'm convinced the A/C condensate drain had a lot to do with it so I relocated the drip to outside the frame into the wheel well.

 

[Monty87ls]

Thanks for that, very helpful.

No problem. Good luck with it!

 

[Monty87ls]

Monty87ls, I've got a patch on the bottom of my frame same place and looks identicle to yours! I pulled about a pound of rust scale out of the frame there too. Other side of frame same location is solid, i'm convinced the A/C condensate drain had a lot to do with it so I relocated the drip to outside the frame into the wheel well.

Same thing here. I forgot to take a pic of what he took out. I will look into the A/C drain location. If you have a pic of what you did with yours I think we would all appreciate seeing it!

I wonder if we could prove the A/C drain location was improper and caused the premature rust in those spots that it could be used as a way to get Toyota to cover these frames?

 

[y=mx+b]

I will look into the A/C drain location. If you have a pic of what you did with yours I think we would all appreciate seeing it!

I did the A/C reloaction as well, figure pictures from a few different people can't hurt. I used a 3/8" splice barb and some 3/8" vinyl tubing zip ties to the frame

 

[Terminator03]

I did the A/C reloaction as well, figure pictures from a few different people can't hurt. I used a 3/8" splice barb and some 3/8" vinyl tubing zip ties to the frame

I will definitely be doing that drain mod soon on mine! It actually rusted through the frame at the top and bottom in that area! Luckily the frame is thicker in that area so the sides are still structurally intact, otherwise it would be unfixable! I’m going to be cutting out and replacing the damaged areas with 3/16” plate, but once done, I’m definitely relocating that drain!

 

[sport2004]

i better see if i can find that drain

 

[Monty87ls]

I did the A/C reloaction as well, figure pictures from a few different people can't hurt. I used a 3/8" splice barb and some 3/8" vinyl tubing zip ties to the frame

Awesome thanks! Im def gonna look into this swell as part of my frame restoration project... Whenever the might be.

I def think that the drain location has a major effect on the rust on the passenger side of the frame. Get enough people maybe it could help the lawsuit.. Is that even still going?

 

[dvto2]

So there have been extended warranty repairs on the Tacoma for frame rust. Is there anything going for the 4runner? My 2005 sport has a lot of frame rust.

 

[Terminator03]

So there have been extended warranty repairs on the Tacoma for frame rust. Is there anything going for the 4runner? My 2005 sport has a lot of frame rust.

They had to do it with the Tundra as well. There has been a lot of talk here over the years about this, but nothing conclusive regarding our 4Runners other than a mention awhile back about the NTSB doing an investigation on it. I suspect the whole Covid mess has really delayed such inquiries though.

 

[sport2004]

Well, just had a look around. I'm not seeing any signs of thru-the-frame rust anywhere. Areas of peely surface crust, with prior undercoating, in many spots. The brace shown above, which the front of the belly pan attaches to, is pretty bad and needs to be replaced, or re-done.

The other issue is the front brackets for the running boards, on both sides, are rusted and broken, leaving the front ends just hanging there. I never step on them. Someone suggested to me that a shop may have used the wrong lift supports and snapped them, not sure how much credence to put in that. I was planning to either remove them, anyway, and possibly replace with nerf bars. I hope the bars could still be installed, but it would be rusty mess removing the bad bracket pieces, would probably need new brackets all the way down.

 

[y=mx+b]

Well, just had a look around. I'm not seeing any signs of thru-the-frame rust anywhere. Areas of peely surface crust, with prior undercoating, in many spots. The brace shown above, which the front of the belly pan attaches to, is pretty bad and needs to be replaced, or re-done.

The other issue is the front brackets for the running boards, on both sides, are rusted and broken, leaving the front ends just hanging there. I never step on them. Someone suggested to me that a shop may have used the wrong lift supports and snapped them, not sure how much credence to put in that. I was planning to either remove them, anyway, and possibly replace with nerf bars. I hope the bars could still be installed, but it would be rusty mess removing the bad bracket pieces, would probably need new brackets all the way down.

Often times the rust holes aren't identifiable with a visual inspection, unless its really too late and they're pretty big. Most times, they're hidden under some flakes that only appear as surface rust. Based on how the front frame and skid mount looks, I'd bet there are a few rough areas around the frame. A needle scaler will very quickly beat away any deteriorated metal and uncover any holes that need attention. An angle grinder with wire wheel is another option, but it can be difficult to control in the tighter areas.

For the running boards, I'd just remove them. Looks better without them on, and sounds like you already step over them to get in.

 

[rdruss]

Awesome thanks! Im def gonna look into this swell as part of my frame restoration project... Whenever the might be.

I def think that the drain location has a major effect on the rust on the passenger side of the frame. Get enough people maybe it could help the lawsuit.. Is that even still going?

I contacted Toyota Customer Service (800-331-4331) on 5/26/17 and reported the problem about A/c condenser drain and frame rust on my '03 Ltd. I sent them pictures too. They assigned a case# 1705262470 and a ref# 170526-000254, but that's the last I heard from them.

 

[Monty87ls]

They had to do it with the Tundra as well. There has been a lot of talk here over the years about this, but nothing conclusive regarding our 4Runners other than a mention awhile back about the NTSB doing an investigation on it. I suspect the whole Covid mess has really delayed such inquiries though.

I called the NTSB also and they took my information and just said the investigation is ongoing.

 

[Monty87ls]

I contacted Toyota Customer Service (800-331-4331) on 5/26/17 and reported the problem about A/c condenser drain and frame rust on my '03 Ltd. I sent them pictures too. They assigned a case# 1705262470 and a ref# 170526-000254, but that's the last I heard from them.

I called them about my frame issues also and the made a claim number and all that but it will never amount to anything. Im hopeful the NTSB investigation will lead to something.