What changes with Bilstein 5100's?

I have posted this in the other thread (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/216390-another-bilstein-5100-question-50.html -page 50) , but here is summarized version of the lift and result:
Bilstein 5100 on all 4 corners, 0.85 in the front with machined to 1/2" poly Daystar spacers on the front left and 5/8” spacer on the front right – to compensate possible lean on KDSS truck that is lifted, 1.5” Daystar spacers on the rear. Result of the lift: 2.1” front, 1.5” rear

Lift was installed by me using hand tools- total price for all parts -with tax was $425.35.

Positive: less lean in turns and a lot less nose dive, obviously increased ground clearance, stance looks great (for me), truck feels more stable on the road (especially on highway with high side wind), CV angles looks great (almost parallel to the ground).

Negative: ride is firmer (vs. stock), it is not harsh, but you can feel the difference. I would describe it as you have slightly over-inflated tires (IMHO: expected from 5100 digressive valving). Interesting to note: I would say 70% of the “firmer” ride came from the rear (after 5100 was installed there)-I am 100% positive on this, as I took a short test drive after installing 5100 on the front and having rear stock.

PS: KDSS specific: lifting the truck with KDSS was not an issue at all, I did strap both pistons to be on a safe side (however, IMHO: I do not think it make any difference to strap or not). Having KDSS maybe added 15 minutes to my work.
 
Replaced the OEM shocks with Bilstein 5100s due to feathered tire wear. Had them installed while getting the alignment done. Not sure what the settings were, as this was before I found this website. Happy with the ride and the feathered tire wear disappeared. From operating the old OEM shocks by hand, it was very clear they were shot and had been since about 80K miles.
 
I have posted this in the other thread (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/216390-another-bilstein-5100-question-50.html -page 50) , but here is summarized version of the lift and result:
Bilstein 5100 on all 4 corners, 0.85 in the front with machined to 1/2" poly Daystar spacers on the front left and 5/8” spacer on the front right – to compensate possible lean on KDSS truck that is lifted, 1.5” Daystar spacers on the rear. Result of the lift: 2.1” front, 1.5” rear

Lift was installed by me using hand tools- total price for all parts -with tax was $425.35.

Positive: less lean in turns and a lot less nose dive, obviously increased ground clearance, stance looks great (for me), truck feels more stable on the road (especially on highway with high side wind), CV angles looks great (almost parallel to the ground).

Negative: ride is firmer (vs. stock), it is not harsh, but you can feel the difference. I would describe it as you have slightly over-inflated tires (IMHO: expected from 5100 digressive valving). Interesting to note: I would say 70% of the “firmer” ride came from the rear (after 5100 was installed there)-I am 100% positive on this, as I took a short test drive after installing 5100 on the front and having rear stock.

PS: KDSS specific: lifting the truck with KDSS was not an issue at all, I did strap both pistons to be on a safe side (however, IMHO: I do not think it make any difference to strap or not). Having KDSS maybe added 15 minutes to my work.

Sweet! I may be doing my 5100 install this weekend, and I know KDSS is a bit different, but I'm trying to figure out if you need to remove the whole sway bar or just unbolt the end links. Maybe I'll end up removing the whole thing just to allow easier removal of the front shock.

By the way, for anyone who needs them, here are the torque values I've compiled from the FSM and factory TRD Pro shock install bulletin:

Front Suspension (w/o KDSS, REAS):
Stabilizer Bar Bracket – 36 ft. lbf
Stabilizer Link – 52 ft. lbf
Shock Absorber Upper Nut – 18 ft. lbf
Shock Absorber Lower Nut – 70 ft. lbf
Lower Ball Joint Attachment – 118 ft. lbf
Toe Adjust Cam Bolt – 129 ft. lbf
Camber Adjust Cam Nut – 129 ft. lbf

Rear Suspension (w/o KDSS, REAS):
Shock Absorber Upper Nut – 18 ft. lbf
Shock Absorber Lower Bolt – 72 ft. lbf
 
... I'm trying to figure out if you need to remove the whole sway bar or just unbolt the end links...

Just unbolt the end links on the front; on the rear I have unbolted sway bar from KDSS cylinder on driver side (two bolts) and fixed bar support from sway bar on the passenger side (two bolts)- do not unbolt sway bar from the rear axle.
 
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Agree with Progress4m

Positive: less lean in turns and a lot less nose dive, obviously increased ground clearance, stance looks great (for me), truck feels more stable on the road (especially on highway with high side wind), CV angles looks great (almost parallel to the ground).

Negative: ride is firmer (vs. stock), it is not harsh, but you can feel the difference. I would describe it as you have slightly over-inflated tires (IMHO: expected from 5100 digressive valving). Interesting to note: I would say 70% of the “firmer” ride came from the rear (after 5100 was installed there)-I am 100% positive on this, as I took a short test drive after installing 5100 on the front and having rear stock.

I would concur with this assessment - especially that is now rides like it has "slightly over-inflated tires." Plus I'm at the end of my Bridgestone Revo2 lifespan, so that may be contributing to the harsher (my word) ride.
 

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