What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[psraff]

Simple job turned ugly, and $$$

Wanted to work on the squeaks from my rear sway bar bushings. So I started to unbolt it and ended up snapping off 3 OF THE 4 BOLTS!!! Easy, drilled one out and started to work it out. Snapped the extractor off flush with the bolt. Now I can't drill it out again because of the extractor is in there (went through 3 or 4 bits trying. It's not going to happen).... Ended up removing the whole sway bar and end links (I don't want to leave it off)... Now I need to find a way to rebuild the mounting plates to remount the sway bar.

But the story continues...
As I was under there I was checking everything else out and noticed my muffler is a lot worse then it was just 2 months ago. Started to separate at the seam. So it's time to research what I want for an exhaust. I'm open to suggestions!!!! I'm pretty sure I don't want Flowmaster due to the interior droning, and Magnaflow has gone downhill from what I've read the past several years.

Now the expensive part....
As I was looking things over, it appears I'm leaning on the driver side. I think my driver side shock is getting soft. I got the boot out of the way and started to measure. The shock shaft was an inch shorter on the driver side compared to the right. In the past I've reached down after running some trails and my shocks were so hot I could hardly hold onto them. I can only imagine the oil inside was cooking. So I'm putting out to everyone how I should upgrade. I was really hoping to upgrade my front suspension first, but my rear shocks could be first. Maybe if work is good this next month I can upgrade everything!

Upgrade to Fox? Icons? Toytec BOSS? Kings?

BTW, I have the 5125 shocks.
http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/4R96-BIL--Rear-Bilstein-Shocks-for-96-02-4Runner_p_64.html

I'm going to start watching YouTube videos for exhaust, and I would love you guys input for any of my issues.
Thanks Everyone!!

 

[rudogg760]

1.25 ebay spacers on (great quality and fitment btw)
2016 Trail Wheels with 33" Nitto Trail Grapplers Load C on..no mods needed with my lift thank god but only had about 1/4" clearance on rear of the front wheel well...driving wise not so bad it is noticably slower as expected but its not terrible!road noise isnt so bad either...
plasti dipped the wheels black...I kinda like it either way what u guys think?

I love those wheels stock silver. But black look nice as well. Been thinking of painting my Fj wheels

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[jkellyn13]

So my 2001 4runner with just over 200k has torn inboard cv axle boots. It appears to have been this way for a little while. I can't see any grease that came out of the boot however the inside of the boot looks relatively clean but very little grease. Should I pull them and replace the boots? New toyota boots are about 55$ my price total. Or should I go with new axles all together. If new axles should they be toyota or what other cheaper brand would I be ok with? I can get toyota axles for 190$ total but trying to not spend that much. Also my truck does have a 3" lift.

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[giguchan]

After my lift on my 3G i had torn boots. The dealer said that there wasn't any damage to my axles foreign matter or anything like that... i had them re pack/grease and I've been good ever since. I was prepared for the worse(new axles) but got away with it.

Best of luck.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Just put up my original wheels for sale - sad moment

So all of you 3rd gen guys/gals I just put my original wheels up for sale in the classifieds. A very heart wrenching moment for me. hwell:

If someone can tell me why I should keep them, I'll pull the classified down. I have Level 8's with Toyo AT's and Sequoia's with Nitto Grapplers M/T's.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...-toyota-4runner-wheels-coke-bottles-$200.html

 

[SWMORNNR]

I loaded my chainsaw, plus my kiddo into the truck and went to clear a fallen tree for my mother. I ended up so drenched in sweat from the heat that it looked like I pissed my pants! Haha.

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[Ironman707]

Something's wrong here

I did the LED cluster swap, all are brand new from superbriteleds.com not sure what happened but it looks like one of them is out. When I checked them in the morning I couldn't really tell if they worked because it was bright out

Looks like tomorrow's project is to fix this

 

[nc-grayson]

I did the LED cluster swap, all are brand new from superbriteleds.com not sure what happened but it looks like one of them is out. When I checked them in the morning I couldn't really tell if they worked because it was bright out

Looks like tomorrow's project is to fix this

Just reverse the bulb, polarity is probably off.

 

[offroadxplr]

I did the LED cluster swap, all are brand new from superbriteleds.com not sure what happened but it looks like one of them is out. When I checked them in the morning I couldn't really tell if they worked because it was bright out

Looks like tomorrow's project is to fix this

I did the exact same thing on the tachometer side... Haven't fixed it yet, but its on the never-ending list...

 

[hour]

Been screwing around with this for a few weekend camping trips, bungee-ing a 100w rigid panel to the roof and then carrying a 100w flexible in the cab.

Decided to go ham and get another 100w rigid and semi-permanently mount them both on the roof for a pleasing total of 200w feeding a 110ah SLA battery in the back. Bungees securing the edges for good measure...

Not too worried over off-gassing from the battery as I have window visors that I permanently leave cracked an inch all around. Runs a Whynter 62DZ dual zone fridge/freezer that I might try leaving in there the rest of the summer. Was at 12.5v last night at 10pm after a 100* day. If I leave the 4runner at home, my spot in the driveway provides direct sun from sunrise to about 6pm (achieving max output of around 11 amps) and then tapers off as the sun disappears behind my house. Should be able to run indefinitely and save my back from having to lift the dumb thing in and out every weekend. Obviously I'm generating way more electricity than I can use, but when camping I can power a whole slew of 12v LED flood lights that I have, charge phones/bluetooth speakers/headlamps/etc and inverter duties.

Also made a home for axe and shovel with quick fists and some extra reusable twist tie rubbery things for good measure. Next step is to figure out a good way to get rid of my cross bars and mount the rack's mounting feet directly to the tracks. and bring it down a couple of inches. The shovel+axe are only thrown up there when I'm departing for a camping weekend, the panels are safe guarded with little locks I got with some firearms I purchased. Honestly that's overkill, I commend anyone who can remove them from the rack because it sure sucked to put em on. Tested the limits of man lifting over 100 lbs solo 7 feet in the air and not scratching the paint :boink:

 

[rudogg760]

Thanks it looks really good. Definitely going on the want list
Is your problem with coupler release hitting the tire before you can get the coupler on the ball?

So here it is. Two inches higher and two inches closer to the hatch. Don't mind the welds. The welder sucks lol

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[jawga4runner]

Replaced old gauge cluster lens with new Toyota part but first added 15% tint to overlay ECT, O/D, and CRUISE lamps which is perfect for night driving but still easy to see during the day. The lens looks great, nearly invisible, no more glare and reflections from scratches/swirls.

TPN: 83852-3D200 - ~$25

If you do this, work like you're in a clean room and have compressed air and a clean new makeup brush on hand. Any dust or debris will attempt to settle on the matte black cluster or cling to the back of the new lens.

Looks good. Not sure how the PO on my truck got so much dirt inside mine, but I'll probably looking into this. Thanks for providing the part number

 

[SWMORNNR]

Next step is to figure out a good way to get rid of my cross bars and mount the rack's mounting feet directly to the tracks. and bring it down a couple of inches. :boink:

Forgive me for shortening the quote. I have been contemplating a way to do the same thing. I still have the roof slats on my truck and am likely to stop at the hardware store in the next couple days to get some turnbuckles and see how they work. If you come up with any other ideas please share.



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[Ironman707]

Just a little plasti dip action

 

[VanPattyCakes]

Been doing a lot over the past couple months including new Icon suspension/lift, Camburg UCA's, new battery and front end overhaul (LBJ's, inner, outer tie rods and steering rack). Today my new Wheels and tires went on. Level 8 Bully Pro wheels and Falken Wild Peak M/T in 285/75-16. Next up is new lower control arms, sliders, skids and a front bumper.

 

[ThomasGS4]

Installed new KYB struts and rear Moog springs. Also changed the oil and took a picture...

 

[hour]

Forgive me for shortening the quote. I have been contemplating a way to do the same thing. I still have the roof slats on my truck and am likely to stop at the hardware store in the next couple days to get some turnbuckles and see how they work. If you come up with any other ideas please share.



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The luggage strips that rest directly on the roof?

Those would work but I found with my panels, they only have mounting holes on the long sides - and underneath. If you were mounting directly to the luggage strip things you'd have to drill holes in the side frame of your panel, and I could see it still lifting upwards.

I used two turn buckles in the middle edges of the panels (1 each) with one loop around the cargo basket horizontal bars on the bottom and the other hooked up under one of the panels mounting holes. Couldn't really get em tight enough to feel confident in doing that exclusively though, and I bent the panel's frame (while destroying two turnbuckles).

Not sure what you're talking about but if you drew something in MS Paint I'd probably be able to make some suggestions. In the end though it was way more of a PITA than I thought it'd be and I'm pretty delighted that they haven't shifted at all since I mounted them, 200 miles of 80mph interstate and 20 miles of the roughest of dirt roads later. A trail might be another story.

I'm actually revising the setup using the 'official' Z brackets for solar panels on the additional cross rails I have riding atop the basket.. I just got a set in today actually from Amazon but with em being aluminum I'm not sure they're going to be the ticket. In any event - I need to split efforts between securing the hell out of them AND making sure they have a little cushioning, rubber washers or something, to prevent shattering.

 

[Penguin_Who_Laughs]

Just stripped the running boards off today. Love the look.

Before:

After:

 

[zcruiser]

The no-running-board look is the best!

 

[Clayton74]

Wheel'd the sh1t out of my 4Run and tested the winch vigorously. Had to take the pressure washer to the interior (dash, seats and all) to get that thing clean! Glad I herculined my floor!

Quick question of any winching / electrical guys in the know, my winch was very close to stalling out a few times, but it's rated at 10k. Is that a winch issue or battery issue? I'm planning a wire upgrade but I'm still waiting (12 weeks now versus the 4 I was told at order time :rant on my stuff from bumper to bumper.