Mark_BC
Senior Member
Thanks, there is one at the junkyard I am thinking of trying to salvage. I am wondering what is in that space behind the cup holders. Couldn't you put the switches there?
What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Thanks, there is one at the junkyard I am thinking of trying to salvage. I am wondering what is in that space behind the cup holders. Couldn't you put the switches there?
Mark_BC
Senior Member
I haven't changed my rear shocks yet. I know there is no chance that upper bolt is coming off. What about cutting the shock off from below with a disc?
infamousRNR
Senior Member
This is a bite off [MENTION=74071]Brilliant[/MENTION] OEM style switch mod, but that space def screams “put switches here”
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
That is what I did, you will need to cut above the step in shaft that holds bushings
in place, make your cut through rubber and you have it.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Yes it does, my Aux lighting switches are going there since dash locations are full with seat heaters and Trac off switch.
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Tried [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION]'s suggestion - genius! That license plate bezel was MADE for pulling down the tailgate, especially for those of us with the he-man 6815 Strongarm supports!
Thanks for the suggestion!
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Lol brother can spare a CV?
I also forgot to mention the other value of the rear license plate bezel, it's a key holder too
When you want to open the rear hatch without unlocking the entire vehicle, unlock and leave your key in the lock, open the hatch leaving your keychain in the bezel. The bezel acts as a basket for you keys protecting the paint on the hatch. Close door, lock the hatch and remove keys lol
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exactly what i did. didn't even attempt to wrench it. no need for that frustation
wrench.n.wheel
New member
Cleaned up the engine bay, didn't spend too much time since it will get dirty again.
Silver Supra
New member
I came very close to just breaking it but after drilling the dust shield it came off no problem.
Took a couple of days of claying, polishing and waxing but was able to finally bring some of the shine back from my ‘98.
Also, after a month of ownership I couldn’t take the lighting situation anymore. Found a very nice but inexpensive bull bar to mount some PIAA led fogs on.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also, after a month of ownership I couldn’t take the lighting situation anymore. Found a very nice but inexpensive bull bar to mount some PIAA led fogs on.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
HappyHooligan
New member
Painted my License plate holder
<a href="https://ibb.co/dLRESJ"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/mB7zuy/IMG_7708.jpg" alt="IMG 7708" border="0" /></a>
<a href="https://ibb.co/dLRESJ"><img src="https://preview.ibb.co/mB7zuy/IMG_7708.jpg" alt="IMG 7708" border="0" /></a>
Mark_BC
Senior Member
Over the last couple days I changed my fan clutch according to Timmy's video. Being in the rust belt, the 4 nuts didn't come off so easy. For the 4th bolt I was lazy and tried to loosen it while it was down in the 6 o'clock position, I didn't feel like bumping the motor to turn it so it was at 12. Well of course I stripped the nut head. It would be nice to find a set of wrenches that actually fit snug over the nut. These are "12 mm".
So then I had to bump the motor to get the bolt up top. Then I had to spend half an hour hand filing the edges of the nut down to 7/16". Of course that one fit nice and snug because I checked it frequently and stopped filing when the wrench just barely squeezed on. Then it came off nice 'n easy.
So that nut is toast and the other 3 aren't so hot either, being partially rounded off by the so-called "12 mm" wrench. So I called up Toyota today and they said I could stop by and check their bucket-o-nuts but I won't have time. I found some other nuts in my own bucket-o-nuts that fit, that came from somewhere else on my 4runner LOL and I'll use those until I can get some nice new ones.
New and old fan clutch:
There was a lot of dust and grunge in there so I cleaned it out
Also all the metal on there had rust but I wasn't going to fix that so I just hit it with rust inhibitor. It will be coming off again for the timing belt job sometime in the near future. The four 10 mm nuts holding the fan to the clutch were rusty too but they are in decent shape since they came off easier and the tight fitting socket didn't round them.
While I had the space available I decided to finally do something about that ugly rust on the frame that always stares me in the face while looking in the engine bay:
After an hour of screwing around with the dremel I had 10" of frame cleaned off, on 2 sides:
Primer:
Final coat with Rustoleum black wheel paint which I really like for underside repair:
It always takes me 4 x longer to do anything than it should because 1) the bolts are always rusted, and 2) I take the opportunity while stuff is off to repair rust.
At this rate I'll have the truck rust-free when I'm 94. Next up: replace clutch hydraulic cylinders (and repair rust while I'm in there).
Edit: thumbs up for anyone who can tell me how many times I said rust in this post.
So then I had to bump the motor to get the bolt up top. Then I had to spend half an hour hand filing the edges of the nut down to 7/16". Of course that one fit nice and snug because I checked it frequently and stopped filing when the wrench just barely squeezed on. Then it came off nice 'n easy.
So that nut is toast and the other 3 aren't so hot either, being partially rounded off by the so-called "12 mm" wrench. So I called up Toyota today and they said I could stop by and check their bucket-o-nuts but I won't have time. I found some other nuts in my own bucket-o-nuts that fit, that came from somewhere else on my 4runner LOL and I'll use those until I can get some nice new ones.
New and old fan clutch:
There was a lot of dust and grunge in there so I cleaned it out
Also all the metal on there had rust but I wasn't going to fix that so I just hit it with rust inhibitor. It will be coming off again for the timing belt job sometime in the near future. The four 10 mm nuts holding the fan to the clutch were rusty too but they are in decent shape since they came off easier and the tight fitting socket didn't round them.
While I had the space available I decided to finally do something about that ugly rust on the frame that always stares me in the face while looking in the engine bay:
After an hour of screwing around with the dremel I had 10" of frame cleaned off, on 2 sides:
Primer:
Final coat with Rustoleum black wheel paint which I really like for underside repair:
It always takes me 4 x longer to do anything than it should because 1) the bolts are always rusted, and 2) I take the opportunity while stuff is off to repair rust.
At this rate I'll have the truck rust-free when I'm 94. Next up: replace clutch hydraulic cylinders (and repair rust while I'm in there).
Edit: thumbs up for anyone who can tell me how many times I said rust in this post.
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Mark_BC
Senior Member
A question since I haven't taken the pulleys off before: When I tightened the fan clutch nuts back on they seemed to need several rounds to get them all tight. Tightening one would cause the others to not be tight anymore.
The pulley was loose after the clutch came off but I didn't think to check if there was some kind of seat that it had to go back into nicely. I just tightened up the nuts and pushed the pulley back. Did I screw that up?
The pulley was loose after the clutch came off but I didn't think to check if there was some kind of seat that it had to go back into nicely. I just tightened up the nuts and pushed the pulley back. Did I screw that up?
Over the last couple days I changed my fan clutch according to Timmy's video. Being in the rust belt, the 4 nuts didn't come off so easy. For the 4th bolt I was lazy and tried to loosen it while it was down in the 6 o'clock position, I didn't feel like bumping the motor to turn it so it was at 12. Well of course I stripped the nut head. It would be nice to find a set of wrenches that actually fit snug over the nut. These are "12 mm".
So then I had to bump the motor to get the bolt up top. Then I had to spend half an hour hand filing the edges of the nut down to 7/16". Of course that one fit nice and snug because I checked it frequently and stopped filing when the wrench just barely squeezed on. Then it came off nice 'n easy.
So that nut is toast and the other 3 aren't so hot either, being partially rounded off by the so-called "12 mm" wrench. So I called up Toyota today and they said I could stop by and check their bucket-o-nuts but I won't have time. I found some other nuts in my own bucket-o-nuts that fit, that came from somewhere else on my 4runner LOL and I'll use those until I can get some nice new ones.
New and old fan clutch:
There was a lot of dust and grunge in there so I cleaned it out
Also all the metal on there had rust but I wasn't going to fix that so I just hit it with rust inhibitor. It will be coming off again for the timing belt job sometime in the near future. The four 10 mm nuts holding the fan to the clutch were rusty too but they are in decent shape since they came off easier and the tight fitting socket didn't round them.
While I had the space available I decided to finally do something about that ugly rust on the frame that always stares me in the face while looking in the engine bay:
After an hour of screwing around with the dremel I had 10" of frame cleaned off, on 2 sides:
Primer:
Final coat with Rustoleum black wheel paint which I really like for underside repair:
It always takes me 4 x longer to do anything than it should because 1) the bolts are always rusted, and 2) I take the opportunity while stuff is off to repair rust.
At this rate I'll have the truck rust-free when I'm 94. Next up: replace clutch hydraulic cylinders (and repair rust while I'm in there).
Edit: thumbs up for anyone who can tell me how many times I said rust in this post.
You need to try a product called AeroKroil. Available at industrial supply houses. best penetrant ever. Son had a 97 ranger that came from Ohio. When you slammed the hood Rust would drop out from under. Large amounts of it. Pretty much saturated the entire underside with this stuff. Worked like a charm.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
O'Reilly's has a sale ending today: 5-quarts of Mobil Super Synthetic for $20, either 5-qt jug or individual 1-qt containers
They also have a deal on Valvoline Synthetic with WIX filter, 5-quarts for $34 or High Mileage for $35. Upgrade to WIX XP for $4 more. Deal ends July 24th.
Get a $10 gift card with this deal via mail-in rebate (limit 2 per household) which brings this deal down to $25
FWIW, WIX filters on Amazon have gone up in price, 51348XP is now over $13
They also have a deal on Valvoline Synthetic with WIX filter, 5-quarts for $34 or High Mileage for $35. Upgrade to WIX XP for $4 more. Deal ends July 24th.
Get a $10 gift card with this deal via mail-in rebate (limit 2 per household) which brings this deal down to $25
FWIW, WIX filters on Amazon have gone up in price, 51348XP is now over $13
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Tire rotation.
Oil change (mobil 1, thanks costco).
I got a oil filter wrench but it didn't make it any less awkward than doing by hand. Would be useful for a filter that's stuck on though.
And got some small size Treds. Summit Racing has the Tred storage bags on clearance for $9 BTW.
Oil change (mobil 1, thanks costco).
I got a oil filter wrench but it didn't make it any less awkward than doing by hand. Would be useful for a filter that's stuck on though.
And got some small size Treds. Summit Racing has the Tred storage bags on clearance for $9 BTW.
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