What did you do with your 4runner today?

finished my vinyl project, on the silver door panel trim inside all four doors.
 

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Bought some Weather Tech digitals from Craigslist. Then had to buy new front axles. Hope those are an easy install.
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Wasn't today but this past weekend I did some much needed maintenance and replace both my front wheel bearings. MUCH quieter ride. now to find where the squeaking in my rear springs area is coming from
 
Monday:
I spent a few hours working on my paint. When I bought the truck, the finish was less than glamorous. I'm pretty sure that the PO didn't even own a water hose. I bathed the truck a few times, but was never satisfied with the outcome. Anywho, I spent about 4 hours washing, clay baring, washing, compounding, washing, polishing, washing and waxing. I'm very happy with the outcome on the paint. It is actually glossy instead of matte. I will be buying a headlight restoration kit soon.
Incoming obligatory paint finish photos:

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Please forgive the cell phone photos. I am no photographer.

Final thoughts: Buy a damn buffing machine. Hand scrubbing is a *****.
 

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My new grill made my yellowing headlights stick out like a sore thumb.
I went ahead and clear coated them
Before:
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After sanding:
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After 3 coats of clear:
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Final product:
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I wish the 2004 year model could use the later OEM projectors without all the mods needed. The aftermarket projectors look like hell and have the angel eye stuff which looks too cheap IMO.


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Found out I had actually been running my KO2s at 45 PSI instead of 40 for the past few months because I read the PSI gauge wrong last time. My ride is actually semi comfortable now.

:doh:
 
Got my tires and body lift installed. Already had the suspension lift done.

Front: OME 884 on Bilstein 5100s (set at .85)
Rear: OME 895 and Bilstein 5100s
Spidertrax 1.25" spacers front and back
1" Toytec body lift
Nitto Trail Grappler 285/70R17 (C load rating)

Suspension Lift only on old nitto crossteks (245/70R17)

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+Body Lift and Tires:

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Thoughts on the mcguiers da drill attachment? My paint is shit but im cheap.

You'll get uneven pressure control with the drill. The most I'd use that for is buffing out headlights.

Get the Harbor Freight DA if you're being cheap with the 20% off. It's a nice deal. Upgrade to some nicer Hexlogic or Microfiber cutting pads on a better backing plate if you want to be semi-not cheap.
 
I got my light bar wired up in preparation for camping over labor day weekend.
Does anyone know what specific wire I can tap into to get the switch to illuminate when I turn the headlights on? I've done some research and haven't found any answers yet.
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I spend 8+ hours with a DA buffer when I do an OCD detailing job.
Used to do it all by hand in my younger days, never again.

Compound was the worst. That took me an hour plus by itself. The paint was SERIOUSLY neglected by the PO. Which is actually crazy since I bought it from the original owner who meticulously maintained the mechanics of the truck.

Anyway, YES. I will be buying a buffer within the month. I plan to try and keep the paint up from this point.
 
I got my light bar wired up in preparation for camping over labor day weekend.
Does anyone know what specific wire I can tap into to get the switch to illuminate when I turn the headlights on? I've done some research and haven't found any answers yet.
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Helps to know what type of switch... but I assume you are you running the aftermarket 4 wire switches that fit in the stock slots?

If so you can just wire the LED positive to the switched output wire that goes to the relay.... (less the ground for the LED which goes to chassis)... when you turn on the power (close the circuit) it flows through the LED portion of the switch at the same time.
 
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Helps to know what type of switch... but I assume you are you running the aftermarket 4 wire switches that fit in the stock slots?

If so you can just wire the LED positive to the switched output wire that goes to the relay.... (less the ground for the LED which goes to chassis)... when you turn on the power (close the circuit) it flows through the LED portion of the switch at the same time.



Yeah, it's the mictuning four wire switch. Thanks for the info, I'll give it a try tomorrow morning.
 
Yeah, it's the mictuning four wire switch. Thanks for the info, I'll give it a try tomorrow morning.

I don't have an easy answer for you here, just a word of caution. When I was wiring up switches and wanted them to illuminate with headlight on and also dim with the dash dimmer, it took me a long time to figure out that Toyota dims on a ground of sorts. The illumination wire is always hot, and the ground also appears hot but when rolling the dimmer it'll make your test light brighter/dimmer. Don't wire the dimmer to light + and switch and light - to ground or you'll ground out your dimmer and everything in the dash will flicker.... wire illumination + to light + and dimmer wire to light -. It's been a few months with proper function on my two aftermarket switches that way.
 
You'll get uneven pressure control with the drill. The most I'd use that for is buffing out headlights.

Get the Harbor Freight DA if you're being cheap with the 20% off. It's a nice deal. Upgrade to some nicer Hexlogic or Microfiber cutting pads on a better backing plate if you want to be semi-not cheap.

I use it for waxing only, sorry if I wasn't clear on that. Works great on both my wife's Acura and my 4R and much faster & easier than hand waxing.

Re white paint, after 11 years of owning a white Xterra, two words: never again. Nissan doesn't clearcoat white, or didn't then, and I wonder about Toyota too after seeing several posts here describing the same exact issues. It was an 11 on the PITA scale to keep that paint looking decent for any length of time.
 

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