What did you do with your 4runner today?

There is no status in paying more , especially on noncosmetic stuff no one can see to brag about it. Just self reassurance if they got a few extra bucks, mind as well spend a little more to show some love and care. You would treat your wife the same way right? Lol.

as for the fluids, i know no such reason not to buy them because i haven't dared to try. but i rather not save $3 and end up paying $100 later. If the logical thought that gear fluid is just gear fluid, then gasoline at one gas station is the same at another cheaper gas station, and expensive tires are the same as the as the cheaper ones. One does not always equal another brand. But paying more does not always mean it is better either. Its your risk. :biggrin1:


Why are you trying to call people out for going the cheaper route when it comes to their own 4Runners? Are you his father or perhaps his uncle? Are you even related to him by any means? No, you are not. If you are so concerned with his decision to purchase cheaper products for his own 4Runner, why don't you back up your talk & pay the difference purchasing "quality" products so you can ship it to him so he has the appropriate products? Oh wait...you won't because you are too cheap to do something like that for someone else even though you previously called them out for going the cheap route

That being said, have you ever heard a saying that goes something like this...

"If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all"

Go to other 4Runner forums if you want to belittle others for sharing their stories with us - this is not the appropriate forum to act like a juvenile
 
There is no status in paying more , especially on noncosmetic stuff no one can see to brag about it. Just self reassurance if they got a few extra bucks, mind as well spend a little more to show some love and care. You would treat your wife the same way right? Lol.

as for the fluids, i know no such reason not to buy them because i haven't dared to try. but i rather not save $3 and end up paying $100 later. If the logical thought that gear fluid is just gear fluid, then gasoline at one gas station is the same at another cheaper gas station, and expensive tires are the same as the as the cheaper ones. One does not always equal another brand. But paying more does not always mean it is better either. Its your risk. :biggrin1:

The thing is though, you haven't raised an actual reason as to why. You "think" the fluids are of lesser quality because of them being from Walmart, and then you raise the argument of cheap tires == expensive tires (not to mention price != quality all the time) but nonetheless, a lot of times performance and actual statistics are used when you argue against something.

If your comment went something along the lines of "Check out this link, it indicates better performance and less risk from ____ instead of ____" it would make more sense. It would make sense if you were respectful about your opinion, raised reasons as to why, and go from there.

If my wife showed face when I gave her a ring that wasn't diamond, it's not the love and thought that counted, it was the value. I'd be reconsidering then too.
 
There is no status in paying more , especially on noncosmetic stuff no one can see to brag about it. Just self reassurance if they got a few extra bucks, mind as well spend a little more to show some love and care. You would treat your wife the same way right? Lol.

as for the fluids, i know no such reason not to buy them because i haven't dared to try. but i rather not save $3 and end up paying $100 later. If the logical thought that gear fluid is just gear fluid, then gasoline at one gas station is the same at another cheaper gas station, and expensive tires are the same as the as the cheaper ones. One does not always equal another brand. But paying more does not always mean it is better either. Its your risk. :biggrin1:
Thanks for your more nuanced follow-up. Here is my approach:
  • Fluids including gas: These follow grade and quality standards by SAE and API. I believe that the risk is low as long as you change these regularly.
  • Wiper blades: This might be a bit more subjective, but the Walmart ones work for me, and I change them as needed.
  • Spark plugs: I already got the best I could find, NGK IFR6T11.
  • Tires: I agree with you. The car came with Michelin LTX M/S2. I replaced the 14YO spare with an almost new matching one to avoid getting stuck in remote areas. Depending on their performance in the desert and mountains, I might get another set when they wear out or switch to Cooper A/T3.
 
Received ACDelco Professional tie-rod ends. Will install tonight. Tomorrow is finally alignment day.
 

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Got my demon eyes all wired up in the new retrofit. Finished tidying up the engine bay with all the new additional wires that were added. Thank god for zip ties and plastic trim! I think a Blue Sea fuse block will be my next order of business. Now I've got my amplifier, HID relay, and Morimoto Bluetooth controller all hooked directly to the battery. Everything is fused, but it's starting to look gaudy.


pictures, or i dont believe it, ...lol:gun6::gun6:
 
Is it normal for steering to feel lighter after replacing the outer tie rod ends? Not looser, lighter. Almost 0 resistance when turning the wheel.
 
Is it normal for steering to feel lighter after replacing the outer tie rod ends? Not looser, lighter. Almost 0 resistance when turning the wheel.
Sounds like you adjusted the toe. Did you measure before/after to make sure it was an identical match? Sounds like an alignment is in order.
 
Maybe that's it. I thought I did it the right way but who knows.

Alignment IS in order, that's why I changed them tonight, since I'm getting alignment tomorrow because of my new 6112s and UCAs. When I was doing the install I found them leaking so I thought I should change them before I get aligned.
 
Didn't know people were so shady to steal a rear window shield wiper... I noticed this past sunday when I went shopping and came back to put stuff in the trunk... I ordered a TRICO blade and got around to install it. It was $12 shipped. Fit perfectly. At least on the bright side... I have a new wiper blade...
oMXRthA.jpg
 
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Is it normal for steering to feel lighter after replacing the outer tie rod ends? Not looser, lighter. Almost 0 resistance when turning the wheel.



That will be corrected when your caster is brought back into spec [emoji106]


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Thanks for your more nuanced follow-up. Here is my approach:
  • Fluids including gas: These follow grade and quality standards by SAE and API. I believe that the risk is low as long as you change these regularly.
  • Wiper blades: This might be a bit more subjective, but the Walmart ones work for me, and I change them as needed.
  • Spark plugs: I already got the best I could find, NGK IFR6T11.
  • Tires: I agree with you. The car came with Michelin LTX M/S2. I replaced the 14YO spare with an almost new matching one to avoid getting stuck in remote areas. Depending on their performance in the desert and mountains, I might get another set when they wear out or switch to Cooper A/T3.

Ok, that is a little better so I can get some hindsight. Your approach is that as long as it is functional, then it satisfy my needs, not the price per se.

The only thing i wouldn't get there is the oil filters, I always end up getting the bigger OEM filters since they can filter out more for about the same price on Amazon. Since i plan on using the car for at least another 4 years, it was cheaper to buy in bulk of 12.

Windshield wipers, i learned the hard way that I can just replace the rubbers on the wipers so the inserts were cheaper than buying the whole blade. Think it was like $8 to $10 per rubber insert at the dealer.
Windshield fluid and radiator fluid are pretty subjective, I would run to walmart to get those things too. Heck, water works just as well! lol.

Fluids and gas, I just assumed Mobil one is the standard according to the majority on the forums praising it, so I always stuck with it for the gear oil and grease. so kudos if the walmart brand works for you. I wouldn't say Mobil one is expensive or overpaying where it will hurt, but I sure do know brands like Royal purple and Amsoil can be way higher if they just work almost the same. So i was hoping for a more reasonable answer the first time around , but it was me who invoked you by saying cheap, But i can be cheap myself since I don't want to pay a mechanic to do it for me and do it myself. :D

As for the Nivea Body wash, I have sensitive skin. So i got the Equate body wash since it was cheaper than Dove. :)



For the others, I can read. no need to put it in big bold font or be sensitive about it and act all high and mighty. I wasn't directing anything towards you. We all share the internet, so we can always learn from each other. My comments wasn't meant to insult, words can be taken out of context sometimes since you can't hear people talking. :lol::lol:-
 
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Not very happy.

6112s set at 4/2 for ~2.2 lift
Camburg UCAs with bjs

Guy said perhaps bad driver side control arm. At 177K miles the LCA is definitely more suspect rather than defective UCA. However I will likely postpone looking into that for spring since I need to focus on my bad rear wheel bearings now.
 

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Ok, that is a little better so I can get some hindsight. Your approach is that as long as it is functional, then it satisfy my needs, not the price per se.

The only thing i wouldn't get there is the oil filters, I always end up getting the bigger OEM filters since they can filter out more for about the same price on Amazon. Since i plan on using the car for at least another 4 years, it was cheaper to buy in bulk of 12.

Windshield wipers, i learned the hard way that I can just replace the rubbers on the wipers so the inserts were cheaper than buying the whole blade. Think it was like $8 to $10 per rubber insert at the dealer.
Windshield fluid and radiator fluid are pretty subjective, I would run to walmart to get those things too. Heck, water works just as well! lol.

Fluids and gas, I just assumed Mobil one is the standard according to the majority on the forums praising it, so I always stuck with it for the gear oil and grease. so kudos if the walmart brand works for you. I wouldn't say Mobil one is expensive or overpaying where it will hurt, but I sure do know brands like Royal purple and Amsoil can be way higher if they just work almost the same. So i was hoping for a more reasonable answer the first time around , but it was me who invoked you by saying cheap, But i can be cheap myself since I don't want to pay a mechanic to do it for me and do it myself. :D

As for the Nivea Body wash, I have sensitive skin. So i got the Equate body wash since it was cheaper than Dove. :)
Hi again, now that you mentioned oil filters, I realized that the only supplies I have been buying at Wally are fluids, cleaners, and wiper blades. I always use OEM oil filters (90915-YZZD3) and drain plug gaskets.

That said, I have no doubts that Mobil 1 stands for really good products, so you might be able to go longer between oil changes. That's what we put in my wife's relatively new Subaru.

Regarding coolant, I agree that one should get the red Zerex-based one, which I believe is noncorrosive to the cooling system and, if the water pump leaks, will not damage the timing belt. Wally seems to have a suitable product:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/49660461

As for replacement parts, I usually stick with OEM or quality aftermarket ones, e.g., sway bar links from MOOG. I just received a remanufactured front CV axle from CVJ, which is twice as expensive (plus core and shipping) than a one from the parts store, but based on my research on this and the IH8MUD forums, there is a huge quality difference.

I'll have to try that Equate body wash some day...
 
Not very happy.



6112s set at 4/2 for ~2.2 lift

Camburg UCAs with bjs



Guy said perhaps bad driver side control arm. At 177K miles the LCA is definitely more suspect rather than defective UCA. However I will likely postpone looking into that for spring since I need to focus on my bad rear wheel bearings now.



Don’t even worry about it. That amount of camber will not cause any significant abnormal tire wear that’s worth worrying over. I typically run -3 degrees of camber on my toys (cars) and super sticky tires (wear quickly) and still never saw abnormal tire wear


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I'm not worried about tire wear with these specs. I'm worried that this is an indication of a problem somewhere in the suspension. Not to mention I paid $$$ for UCAs so I can get better specs than this.
 
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George is the man - that's my local spot for fresh bagels. Only few mins away from my home

I also live in Fairfax, VA so my spot here would have to be Einsteins' bros bagels or some delicious korean bakery for treats

yeah they're the best in vb and 2nd in the 757, second only to yorgos off 21st in downtown norfolk. I get one every sunday morning since its down the street from me as well
 
Black headlight mod and restored my headlights.
 

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Spent literally the whole day cleaning my battery corrosion and then driving around 4-5 parts stores to hunt for new bracket and j bolts. Because when I was at the first store early in the morning I was like "nah I don't need those". Then one of the bolts broke when I tried to loosen the nut so I tied the battery down temporarily and then it was hell hunting new bolts (saturday afternoon traffic and several stores didn't have what I needed).
 

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