97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
I really don't think this is the trucks fault...
What did you do with your 4runner today?
- Thread starter NorthGa4R
- Start date
I really don't think this is the trucks fault...
emelianenkov
New member
I got a free Lexus GX 470 driveshaft, but it's just a tad too short
Solution? Found a place in my town up in NH that's machining me a 3/4" spacer with a flange and everything for $60. I love locals up here! This piece woulda cost me $150+ down in mass
Solution? Found a place in my town up in NH that's machining me a 3/4" spacer with a flange and everything for $60. I love locals up here! This piece woulda cost me $150+ down in mass
SI2IS2T4R
New member
momo.75
Registered User
Well, I'm more of a lurker... and I've used this site for a lot of education over the last year. I'm hoping to get more involved with the community this year and indulge in more mods as well! Here's some pics from last month...
eace:
Congratulations man!
SI2IS2T4R
New member
CookieRoe
Senior Member
Well, I'm more of a lurker... and I've used this site for a lot of education over the last year. I'm hoping to get more involved with the community this year and indulge in more mods as well! Here's some pics from last month...
congrats!
I thought it was a direct swap. I wonder why it isn't. V6 maybe?
emelianenkov
New member
The V6 shaft is longer
I just picked up my spacer made by a local shop called Norsis. It looks awesome! Almost back to the cottage now, I hope the spacer helps!
I installed some new focal coaxial speakers in the backseats (still need to do the front components) and I completely underestimated the amount of time it was going to take especially with adding sound deadener which is time consuming. Speakers were pretty much plug n play with a wiring harness. Used a combination of second skin deamplifier reg & pro to save a little added weight plus a layer of dynaliner which is thinner and alot lighter than second skins luxury liner but most likely not as effective, but good enough for me.
Sorry no pics, will be sure to add some for the fronts
Sorry no pics, will be sure to add some for the fronts
kevinpt
Senior Member
HokieRunner
New member
with that kit the term "battery isolator" is thrown around alot.
isolator, theoretically battery a will not see battery b. its not true since the isolator that comes in that kit is actually a high current relay
like this one
basically when the car is on the relay completes the line from the battery to the alternator. thus making it a parallel configuration just using different points for connection.
on the relay there are 4 connections, two larger one for the battery in and out and 2 smaller one for ground and one for ignition trigger. if you know a little about how a relay works you will find this is the same thing.
look at my diagram i drew up. its basically parallel with different connection points.
in my mind i make perfect sense. if i didnt explain it correctly then feel free to ask!
[MENTION=77471]kevinpt[/MENTION] - Steve explained it pretty well. There are true isolators and then there are the kits that run high powered solenoids.
With my kit (the t-max), when you start the vehicle, the starting battery gets charged for 5 minutes before the solenoid links (parallels) the batteries so they can both be charged. When the truck is turned off, the batteries are un-linked and are no longer in parallel.
There's a ton of info out there that the batteries must be matching in every stat/age. If you have a really old battery and a new one and they're different size/types, you can run into issues. The easiest way to avoid this is with 2 similar or same size batteries, each brand new. That way they won't steal power or overwork each other when paralleled.
The best explanation of battery system options that I've found is here: Battery Isolators
While ideally you'd run 2 matching batteries, there are a good number of folks who do not and they end up just fine. That being said, there are cases where they don't! These kits don't come with fuses either for the main power linking wire so adding in 150 or 200 amp fuses at each end is highly recommended.
HokieRunner
New member
Ran the wiring for the dual battery control unit. The passenger side firewall has an unused grommet nipple that worked perfect. Then ran it through to the console lid.
emelianenkov
New member
No vibes, no clunks, and the slipyoke on the driveshaft is extended a safe distance now
Brutalguyracing
New member
Woot fixed these lights
In 2 minutes
Used this
A little something i whipped together a few years ago to use on my taco
And now its like this
And did this "thanks to someone else who did the same on here"
I am going to add a cargo net in place of bungies
Now a few weeks ago my rear defroster stopped working
And a few days ago i tried to use the rear wiper and sprayer neither work
I checked the fuses all seem good
Before i get a meter out any ideas
In 2 minutes
Used this
A little something i whipped together a few years ago to use on my taco
And now its like this
And did this "thanks to someone else who did the same on here"
I am going to add a cargo net in place of bungies
Now a few weeks ago my rear defroster stopped working
And a few days ago i tried to use the rear wiper and sprayer neither work
I checked the fuses all seem good
Before i get a meter out any ideas
emelianenkov
New member
Woot fixed these lights
In 2 minutes
Used this
A little something i whipped together a few years ago to use on my taco
And now its like this
And did this "thanks to someone else who did the same on here"
I am going to add a cargo net in place of bungies
Now a few weeks ago my rear defroster stopped working
And a few days ago i tried to use the rear wiper and sprayer neither work
I checked the fuses all seem good
Before i get a meter out any ideas
Try putting your rear window all the way down, then all the way back up again. Both the window and the wiper won't work if it thinks it's open
Brutalguyracing
New member
dam this truck has got some crazy things going on.....
thanks for the heads up on the window / defroster / wiper/ ect
who would have thought.......
so now......i need the dinging when key in ing. gone.....
dam that drives me crazy.......
and when i remove the running boards...is there a plug that disconnects for the lights in them?
and what are you all doing with the light wires when not in use....
no i do not want to make them into undercarriage lights
i hate lights
just want them isolated and sealed from elements.....
and i need to get the rear top plastics off.....
i think i have to remove the whole rear plastics and floor to get to them, correct
or is there an easier way
thanks for the heads up on the window / defroster / wiper/ ect
who would have thought.......
so now......i need the dinging when key in ing. gone.....
dam that drives me crazy.......
and when i remove the running boards...is there a plug that disconnects for the lights in them?
and what are you all doing with the light wires when not in use....
no i do not want to make them into undercarriage lights
i hate lights
just want them isolated and sealed from elements.....
and i need to get the rear top plastics off.....
i think i have to remove the whole rear plastics and floor to get to them, correct
or is there an easier way
Brutalguyracing
New member
Just researched the service history of my truck
And found this
And found this
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