07V8
Member
Did this
live action!!
How is the swap going so far? Are you going to DCI the old engine to try and find out what went wrong?
What did you do with your 4runner today?
- Thread starter NorthGa4R
- Start date
How is the swap going so far? Are you going to DCI the old engine to try and find out what went wrong?
S p a r k y
New member
Thoughts with them? Do they rub back of your leg when getting out? Would you consider them closer to body? Thinking about these as well! Tried some 06+ tubes and they were just to far out.
Porqupine82
New member
calvinv8sr5
New member
It's going ok, some mistakes , nothing major. Worst part was lining the motor back up to the transmission. I probably won't know about the internals until I sell stuff off the old motor. Intake valves looked great so I know heads are good. Pretty sure rings are bad in atleast 2 cylinders, the exhaust ports on the two were filthy. Honestly I'm not really diving in that motor unless people need parts. Which I'll post soon
live action!!
I had my sunroof permanently sealed a while back and I am always looks for extra storage so I installed a shock cord gear hammock in the sunroof opening. Bought the hammock off amazon for about$9 and the a hackles were $10. The brackets are screwed to the sunroof frame. Works amazing.
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What about the rear seat mat? I got one that fits like a ham sandwich in my pocket.
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Krayziekid
New member
Rausch Creek
Had a lot of fun at Rausch Creek, despite the bad weather late in the day. Got hours upon hours of wheeling, but didn't take as many pictures as I normally do! So here are some fun detail shots I took, as well as a shot of my buddy's Jeep Grand Cherokee on 35s!
Had a lot of fun at Rausch Creek, despite the bad weather late in the day. Got hours upon hours of wheeling, but didn't take as many pictures as I normally do! So here are some fun detail shots I took, as well as a shot of my buddy's Jeep Grand Cherokee on 35s!
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CajunYota
New member
Completed suspension lift project
Front: OME 884 on Bilstein 5100s (set at .85)
Rear: OME 895 on Bilstein 5100s
Also replaced front brake calipers, pads, rotors, and added extended braided lines, AND replaced drivers side CV Half Shaft and seal thanks to a torn boot.
Next is tires :whoo:
Front: OME 884 on Bilstein 5100s (set at .85)
Rear: OME 895 on Bilstein 5100s
Also replaced front brake calipers, pads, rotors, and added extended braided lines, AND replaced drivers side CV Half Shaft and seal thanks to a torn boot.
Next is tires :whoo:
How does it ride with those 20" rims? 4th vs. 5th gen: compare and contrast. GO!
It's really not a fair comparison. The 2011 is a 2wd. The 03 is a lifted v8 4wd sr5. The 2011 is by far the nicest thing ive ever sat in. My V8 moves it's ass much easier/faster, but the v6 is plenty for me and the wife. The 2011 rides like glass on the 20" limited wheels. The '03 rides well, but is lifted, and drives as such.
All in all, it hurts my pride a little getting into the '03 now. Could be the newness, but time will tell. Go test drive a new limited, with all the bells and wistles. You will buy it unless the price scares you away.
adkfinn
Member
Not sure about the rear seat, sorry. I just got them and mine doesn't fit correctly either. There is no provision/bump-out for where the rear seat bottom brackets come down to the hinge to flip forward. I need to snap some pics and re-read the Weathertech threads to try to confirm if they sent me the correct part and/of if there is a solution other than cutting... I am thinking I could use a heat gun to re-mold this area, has anyone tried it? :bump:
UPDATE
I messed around with my rear passenger mat tonight and realized that I didn't have far enough forward. The edge will go further under the front seat that it appears and it is a tight fit.... but once I figured this out, the mat fits much better all around and I am happy with the result.
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Tooltime19
New member
Installed an Autozone Platinum AGM battery. This thing turns over much easier than before.
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
Installed Kenwood KFC-P709PS component speakers in the front doors. They sound terrific, especially since I finally got my trusty old Bazooka tube installed a couple of weeks ago.
Now I'm waiting on a set of KFC-P509PS speakers for the rear doors (same speaker, but woofers are in the 5.25 inch size). I'm mulling over whether to use the tweeters in the rear doors. I figured someone here must have installed tweeters in the rear at some point, and I was right. So I may go for it.
Some notes others may find useful. First, the following is stated in this thread:
==
3. Unbolt tweeter… and cut the single red/black wires soldered to the tweeter as close to the tweeter as you can.
** Coming out of the door, there are 4 colored wires going to the tweeter. At the point where the 4 colored wires (pink/purple/etc…) plug into a white connector, coming out the other side are 2 red and 2 black wires. Those wires are fused together to become 1 red and 1 black… which plug into the tweeter. If that white connector is not connected, the 2 wires that plug into the woofer have no signal. So unless you want to do some re-wiring of the wiring harness, just use the single red/black for the tweeter as the input for your crossover.**
==
I was wondering what to do here because the Kenwoods come with a crossover. The HU speaker wires go to the woofer, then you connect the crossover between the woofer and tweeter. I accidentally discovered that the wires from the white plug don't have to be connected to the tweeter; just the plug being connected is enough to send a signal through the woofer wires. So I left the plug in place and taped off the end of the red and black wires referenced in the thread quote above, and everything works fine.
The other thing is the underrated handiness of a seldom-mentioned fabbing material - sheet styrene. Learned of it in my aircraft model-building days. It comes in a wide range of thicknesses, and if I had my Satoshi grill to do over, that's what I would use to back the big gaps you have to cut away on the inside walls of the grill to do the "deep" style grill.
Anyway, I had some of a suitable thickness and was able to make both tweeter brackets from one 4x6 inch sheet.
It couldn't be any easier to work with. I used a hole saw drill bit to cut the space for the tweeter.
Side-by-side with the original tweeter:
Installed:
Now I'm waiting on a set of KFC-P509PS speakers for the rear doors (same speaker, but woofers are in the 5.25 inch size). I'm mulling over whether to use the tweeters in the rear doors. I figured someone here must have installed tweeters in the rear at some point, and I was right. So I may go for it.
Some notes others may find useful. First, the following is stated in this thread:
==
3. Unbolt tweeter… and cut the single red/black wires soldered to the tweeter as close to the tweeter as you can.
** Coming out of the door, there are 4 colored wires going to the tweeter. At the point where the 4 colored wires (pink/purple/etc…) plug into a white connector, coming out the other side are 2 red and 2 black wires. Those wires are fused together to become 1 red and 1 black… which plug into the tweeter. If that white connector is not connected, the 2 wires that plug into the woofer have no signal. So unless you want to do some re-wiring of the wiring harness, just use the single red/black for the tweeter as the input for your crossover.**
==
I was wondering what to do here because the Kenwoods come with a crossover. The HU speaker wires go to the woofer, then you connect the crossover between the woofer and tweeter. I accidentally discovered that the wires from the white plug don't have to be connected to the tweeter; just the plug being connected is enough to send a signal through the woofer wires. So I left the plug in place and taped off the end of the red and black wires referenced in the thread quote above, and everything works fine.
The other thing is the underrated handiness of a seldom-mentioned fabbing material - sheet styrene. Learned of it in my aircraft model-building days. It comes in a wide range of thicknesses, and if I had my Satoshi grill to do over, that's what I would use to back the big gaps you have to cut away on the inside walls of the grill to do the "deep" style grill.
Anyway, I had some of a suitable thickness and was able to make both tweeter brackets from one 4x6 inch sheet.
It couldn't be any easier to work with. I used a hole saw drill bit to cut the space for the tweeter.
Side-by-side with the original tweeter:
Installed:
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Powder_Hound
New member
Did this
live action!!
Uhm...WTF chuck? I think I must have missed something, but why is engine getting pulled?????
BOFFROAD
New member
Since there are only 4 tie down points in these vehicles, stuff in the cargo area loves to go flying all the time, more tie down points is a must. So, today I cut a piece of wood to fit the cargo area, put some black carpet on it, and mounted it to the factory tie down locations. Then got 8 tie down D rings to mounts to it so I will have 12 tie down locations. So far I have 4 of them mounted shown in the picture. :nod:
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earthrealm
Senior Member
[MENTION=135072]lowderjh[/MENTION] , where did you buy the clips?
my truck needs such too...flapping in the wind a lil
my truck needs such too...flapping in the wind a lil
Bought them at the dealership. Should be 5 clips...3 blue and 2 orange if I remember correctly. The clips are cheap even for the dealership.
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