85straight
New member
Well it held up for a pretty long time somehow, and of course I find it right before the calico trip cutting into my beer funds :redbrick:
What did you do with your classic T4R today?
- Thread starter coloradodave
- Start date
Well it held up for a pretty long time somehow, and of course I find it right before the calico trip cutting into my beer funds :redbrick:
952ndgen4runner
New member
95 2nd gen removable doors
Hey guys I'm new to this forum. I've looked on this forum to answer a lot of questions I've had in the past but never made an account because I could always find my answers to the questions I have had. So I had been doing some looking around to see what people had suggested for removable doors. I finally settled to cut my hinge pins and make some removable pins. My next problem was the wiring, I have electric windows and locks and mirrors so as you can imagine there was a lot of wires going in and out of the doors. I wired harnesses and they are weatherproof. My last problem is that my windows themselves do not physically roll up, I've heard things like reset your actuators or regulators but I have no clue where they are and how I would reset them or anything like that. I'd really appreciate the help, I haven't been able to roll up both of my driver side windows for a couple months and all of my other windows won't roll down, and I'm guessing all of you know how much it sucks if your back window doesn't roll down. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Hey guys I'm new to this forum. I've looked on this forum to answer a lot of questions I've had in the past but never made an account because I could always find my answers to the questions I have had. So I had been doing some looking around to see what people had suggested for removable doors. I finally settled to cut my hinge pins and make some removable pins. My next problem was the wiring, I have electric windows and locks and mirrors so as you can imagine there was a lot of wires going in and out of the doors. I wired harnesses and they are weatherproof. My last problem is that my windows themselves do not physically roll up, I've heard things like reset your actuators or regulators but I have no clue where they are and how I would reset them or anything like that. I'd really appreciate the help, I haven't been able to roll up both of my driver side windows for a couple months and all of my other windows won't roll down, and I'm guessing all of you know how much it sucks if your back window doesn't roll down. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Primary reasons for having classic trucks and removable doors are simplicity, less things in the way, less crap.
Power doors, windows, that rely on battery power is crap. Ditch all that and convert to manual windows.
To each his own, but I've driven my 31 year old first-gen from So Cal through Route 66 to Dallas, and back along southern corridor, to Northern Ca several times and back, to Calif deserts and back, to Utah and back, camping in the truck all along, and never saw a need for any of those power stuff. In fact, I find the power rear windows that rely on electricity to be more trouble than benefit.
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952ndgen4runner
New member
I thought about it, the thing is what I've heard is that I would have to get a whole new door because the holes on the doors where the crank would go is a lot smaller so I'd have a gaping hole in my door if i didn't get new doors. Doors aren't very easy to come by where I live especially ones that are the sun baked white color
hahahagrousehunter 61
New member
Got the headers installed today but had to do a little denting, the #3 down pipe was against the starter. It is now about 1/4 inch away, still too close, but I am looking into a thermal wrap. The headers are from DNA Motoring, the fit is great other than the starter. If I don't blow a hole where I was denting the pipe then I will be happy.
952ndgen4runner
New member
grousehunter 61
New member
actually dented them almost 1/2 inch, that gave me a 1/4 inch away from the starter. As I said they were hard against the starter. I am afraid that they are to thin and will blow through......
grousehunter 61
New member
I called DNA motoring and they don't want to talk, their phone keeps going back the operator so I called pro tuning lab and ordered a new set of headers, I am going to have a local welder cut a patch out of the header, turn it over and weld it back in backwards to clear the starter. Stainless doesn't dimple very well, likes to crack, or at least mine did. Anybody else have a problem with those headers ???
952ndgen4runner
New member
I personally have never used these headers but that sounds like a good idea :thumb:
grousehunter 61
New member
Tanner, sometime I half to wonder, here are a set of headers built for the 4runner, they have all the right shapes, fit just right and they forget the starter. All they needed to do was put a slight bend in the right place and the problem would be solved. Pro tuning was very helpful, but as they say, they don't build them just sell them. They discounted the second set by about $4o.oo, I don't know what DNA's problem is. I am not looking for more power just wanted the crossover pipe out from behind the heads.
grousehunter 61
New member
OK, I have been looking at the starter and bell housing and they look thick enough for me to cut some off with a cut off wheel. I got the starter blanket yesterday and am installing it today. If cutting off part of the starter and bell housing works I will let you know, if not I will inform also......
grousehunter 61
New member
Forget it, wrong image, I was thinking that the down pipe hit the starter in a different place, it won't work..
djelectron
New member
Having some front wiper issues. Thought my multi function switch was bad (headlights, wipers), so I pulled the steering wheel and switch. Of course I found continuity on every single pin I was supposed to! Switch is just fine, thank you. Back to the drawing board...
Please post the performance of your 3.0 post the header install. I would sure like to know if the header makes a noticeable difference on the 3.0. Thanks
grousehunter 61
New member
OK, yesterday got the new headers installed, most of the hoses replaced, power steering pump installed, fan belts done, fuel lines hooked up, it's getting close. Today if all goes well the phellem should be installed, vacuum lines hooked up, throttle cables and I may even try to start it....:beer:
Got my 4 pinion diff welded up. The 4 pinion is a hit more of a job to weld than the 2, but that's what I've got. I split the carrier and tacked the exposed side together, then pulled the spider and side gear out, flipped it so the tacked side was down and tacked the 2nd side. Did what I could with my off brand mig welder, and took it to my work and really worked it over with the big Lincoln stick beast they have. Used about 12 6011 rods on it. Ugly as sin, but I think (hope) it'll do.
Got 3rd member back together today. Pretty sure the R and P are set up decent. I don't have a dial indicator, but there's just a tiny bit of free travel and the carrier bearings are snugged down pretty good. This is a dedicated trail runner, so no highway speeds in its future. Should be ok, dontcha think?
Got 3rd member back together today. Pretty sure the R and P are set up decent. I don't have a dial indicator, but there's just a tiny bit of free travel and the carrier bearings are snugged down pretty good. This is a dedicated trail runner, so no highway speeds in its future. Should be ok, dontcha think?
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4Reak Show
New member
Well I'm sure you'll fill us in... Just please don't use the same level of precision if you get a job with NASA. Hahaha totally messing. Looks like it'll hold up. Even if the welds snap, there's no more teeth to turn anyway
grousehunter 61
New member
Be careful when side hilling, it will pull you down hill. Been there done that.
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