What do i need to order besides my lift

Dirtrider216

New member
Ordering my lift kit soon, its going to be Blistien 5100 all around with ebaich 620 front springs and super flex HD rear springs
toytec 1/2' top plate spacers
I will be running mb352 wheels in 17x9 -12mm offset
and cooper st max 255/80r17 tires and jba ucas which i have already ordered
I am curious what i need to order along with the lift kit
Do i need a sway bar relocate, open ended lug nuts, or anything else? the kit will all be installed by a shop so i don't want them to call me and say they can't do it without a certain part...
 
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I have essentially the same set-up, all I would add is front sway bar relocate kit, rear extended sway bar links and diff drop kit. Maybe some of the small cv boot (outer) clamps to get those done while you can, they will probably leak after the lift. And new upper contol arm bolts, have to remove them anyway might as well be new ones going back in.


SBE702 – Sway Bar Extended End Links, they are for the FJ but the work fine if you drill out the lower mount hole to fit.

https://wheelersoffroad.com/product...4x4-differential-drop-kit-skid-plate-spacers/

https://wheelersoffroad.com/product...arts-379639/upper-control-arm-pivot-bolt-nut/

Also a way to transport the spare if you are getting all 5 tires, it wont fit in the stock location anymore if you want to keep the tow hitch.
 
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You don't *need* anything other than the parts you've listed.

The CV boot clamps area good idea, but the diff drop has been discussed thoroughly. I don't run one, and no one I know does anymore. :shrug: UCA bolts just cause? Seems like a waste... If they're all corroded, sure.

I'm surprised a 255/80 won't fit in the stock location. We just put a brand new, aired up, 285/70R17 KO2 in the stock location on my buddy's GX. I know the axle and trailer hitch are the same... I'd think the spare tire location would be too.
 
Can I just remove the sway bars rather than get a relocate for them
And are you guys saying I shouldn’t need to replace my lug nuts? I’m so concerned about Those because when I lifted my f250 the shop didn’t mention the need for new lug nuts and I ended up breaking 6 out of 8 studs on my front left wheel from the wheel not being held on well enough
 
I just ditched rear sway bar and it's not noticeable. I couldn't get rid of my front sway though, I put it back on after a couple days without it. Yes you'll need new lug nuts "tuner lug nuts" is what they call them. The flat washer style OEM lug nuts won't work on the MB wheels, you need the proper tapered seat lug nuts. They can be had for pretty cheap from the lug nut guys on fleabay. Yeah I know fleabay lug nuts, but I've ran them on multiple vehicles for the past 5 years with no complaints and I take mine on and off A LOT.
 
Ordering my lift kit soon, its going to be Blistien 5100 all around with ebaich 620 front springs and super flex HD rear springs
toytec 1/2' top plate spacers
I will be running mb352 wheels in 17x9 -12mm offset
and cooper st max 255/80r17 tires and jba ucas which i have already ordered
I am curious what i need to order along with the lift kit
Do i need a sway bar relocate, open ended lug nuts, or anything else? the kit will all be installed by a shop so i don't want them to call me and say they can't do it without a certain part...

New top hats
Possibly new LCA alignment bolts if yours are seized
 
Forgot to mention that, I ordered JBA high caster standard UCAs
It looks like ill order some front sway bar extended links and have the shop remove the rear sway bar.
Forgive my newbness but what is the new top hat and why would I need one?
 
Forgot to mention that, I ordered JBA high caster standard UCAs
It looks like ill order some front sway bar extended links and have the shop remove the rear sway bar.
Forgive my newbness but what is the new top hat and why would I need one?

Great choice in UCA's. I have them and they work great.

I wouldn't remove the rear sway bar unless you have a specific long travel setup designed not to run that. along with extended brake lines.
The front, is preference. again, if you dont have a suspension setup designed not to have the front, then keep it as well. You will loose more then you will gain by removing it otherwise.
 
Great choice in UCA's. I have them and they work great.

I wouldn't remove the rear sway bar unless you have a specific long travel setup designed not to run that. along with extended brake lines.
The front, is preference. again, if you dont have a suspension setup designed not to have the front, then keep it as well. You will loose more then you will gain by removing it otherwise.

Where would i be able to find the front extended sway bar links? Or are the toytec swa bar relocation brackets the same as an extended link?
 
Can I just remove the sway bars rather than get a relocate for them
And are you guys saying I shouldn’t need to replace my lug nuts? I’m so concerned about Those because when I lifted my f250 the shop didn’t mention the need for new lug nuts and I ended up breaking 6 out of 8 studs on my front left wheel from the wheel not being held on well enough

Removing the sway bar really changes the high speed driving characteristic of the truck... enough so that I decided to put my sway bars back on.

Removal is fine for a dedicated off-road truck, but removed you really need to change how you drive.

Hard to explain but the added roll makes the truck feel weak in the knees and give a general uneasy feeling at higher speeds.

As to the studs, if you have concerns, I would check with the rim manufacture about stud length / lug compatibility. Alternately, just pull a tire off and test fit it yourself.
 
Where would i be able to find the front extended sway bar links? Or are the toytec swa bar relocation brackets the same as an extended link?

front relocates should be all you need. rear extended i have the skyjacker from amazon or summit racing. seem to work good and allow for plenty of travel.

As far as removing the front sway bar. With the setup you plan to have. I wouldn't. you wont have enough safe suspension travel to gain much and your road handling will be bad.
 
Who makes a good sway bar link then?

How much are you lifting?

I never used one, everything bolted back up just fine.

I am running a 6112 with the lift setting 1 down from the highest which is supposed to be around 2.5" but it actually yielded me more.
 
You don't *need* anything other than the parts you've listed.

The CV boot clamps area good idea, but the diff drop has been discussed thoroughly. I don't run one, and no one I know does anymore. :shrug: UCA bolts just cause? Seems like a waste... If they're all corroded, sure.

I'm surprised a 255/80 won't fit in the stock location. We just put a brand new, aired up, 285/70R17 KO2 in the stock location on my buddy's GX. I know the axle and trailer hitch are the same... I'd think the spare tire location would be too.

The blots are for his location, he lives in Maine.

The spare wasn't even close to fitting, I even tired letting all the air out and inflate while it was in there, no good. This is on the V8 4runner, I hear the V6 it is possible to fit it.
 
Thank you guys for all the input!
I ended up ordering the toytec/blistein preset 3” lift with blistein 5100 rear and superflex hd springs. I got jba UCA’s and then from wheelers off-road I ordered a set of 1/2” top plate spacers and then a single 1/4” spacer to correct any lean and I got 2” extended bolts for the spacers and I got the differential drop and front sway bar relocate. I will have the shop remove my rear sway bar
I will have my mb 352 wheels and 255/80/17 Cooper st Maxx tires hopefully on Thursday
 
I tried to use the Icon sway bar relocate spacers and I couldn't get the factory skid plate back on. I went without the front sway and with the skid. There is slightly more body roll in sharp corners, but nothing noticeable to anyone but me. No issues whatsoever at freeway speeds.
 

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