What does it take to get to 400,000 miles?

Up to you. Engine mileage doesn't matter (I've got an engine with 264k miles in the back that runs as smooth as my 206k mileage one) but other things do degrade faster such as suspension, steering parts, seats, carpet, among other things. So a lower mileage does help in that regard. You'd be hard pressed to find a 200k+ 4Runner with stock suspension that rides comfortably.

what kind of suspension work would need to be done to restore the 4runner to a decent ride? I am not knowledgeable in this kind of stuff.

My goal is to spend $3,500-$4,000 on a 4runner. I would like a 99-02 limited (ideally 01-02 bc of heated seats) and something that is stock. 2wd is fine. Ideally something owned by former soccer mom type vehicle

Most work that would need to be done I can do with the help of youtube and write-ups on forums like this and with help of step-dad

And then I want to drive it for as long as I can
 
When I first got the truck, I would use about 1/4 to 1/3 of a quart of conventional. When I switched to Valvoline synthetic blend Maxlife, I literally used hardly any oil at all. Maybe 1/8 of a quart and the oil looked good.

Eventually I made the switch to synthetic and was back up to a 1/2 quart. Last oil change I tried 5w-20 full synthetic and have gone through a full quart in the last 5k.

I like the current oil I'm using now, but I think it's just too thin for the miles on my engine. I may switch back to the Maxlife oil since the seal conditioners in it seem to make a difference on my engine and I've had good luck with it before.

I also think much of my oil loss is through the valve covers and rear main seal. I'll tighten the covers down again soon.

Mine is about to roll 207k, ive been using conventional at first 10w30, more recently 5w30, and it hasnt been using any perceptible amount of oil.

Going synthetic 5w30 with this change, we'll see how she does.
 
what kind of suspension work would need to be done to restore the 4runner to a decent ride? I am not knowledgeable in this kind of stuff.

My goal is to spend $3,500-$4,000 on a 4runner. I would like a 99-02 limited (ideally 01-02 bc of heated seats) and something that is stock. 2wd is fine. Ideally something owned by former soccer mom type vehicle

Most work that would need to be done I can do with the help of youtube and write-ups on forums like this and with help of step-dad

And then I want to drive it for as long as I can

Just shocks and springs, and sway bar links. The springs wear out and get saggy and bouncy, and the shocks get soft and don't absorb the shock anymore and you feel every pebble and imperfection on the road. I replaced mine when I got it for about $400, but can get pricey if you want off-road shocks or a lift and all that.
 
340,000 on my 1997. I'm the 3rd or 4th owner, the owner before me bought it in sad shape, but he did a lot for it and I'm continuing to make improvements and maintain it.

The engine pulls strong, doesn't burn oil and will usually average around 16mpg around town with a lift and 33s. When the valve covers were off recently, there was very little sludge in the top end. Has a slight rear main leak, but with these miles I'm not going to pull the transmission until the engine or the transmission dies.
 
Just shocks and springs, and sway bar links. The springs wear out and get saggy and bouncy, and the shocks get soft and don't absorb the shock anymore and you feel every pebble and imperfection on the road. I replaced mine when I got it for about $400, but can get pricey if you want off-road shocks or a lift and all that.

thanks!

I will stop getting this thread off track but that is good info

The one I buy will be stock and I plan to keep stock. It will be a DD

My step-dad still drives a 1994 f-150 he bought in 1996

My goal is to get my 4runner and get years and years out of it
 
When I first got the truck, I would use about 1/4 to 1/3 of a quart of conventional. When I switched to Valvoline synthetic blend Maxlife, I literally used hardly any oil at all. Maybe 1/8 of a quart and the oil looked good.

Eventually I made the switch to synthetic and was back up to a 1/2 quart. Last oil change I tried 5w-20 full synthetic and have gone through a full quart in the last 5k.

I like the current oil I'm using now, but I think it's just too thin for the miles on my engine. I may switch back to the Maxlife oil since the seal conditioners in it seem to make a difference on my engine and I've had good luck with it before.

I also think much of my oil loss is through the valve covers. I'll tighten the covers down again soon.

very respectable for a 400K engine.

I do think that W20 is indeed not the correct oil for our engines. Not so much for the viscosity, but 0-20 and 5-20 do not have the same amount of protection additives for our old flat tappet engines, and our engines were not built with tolerances of today's engines which uses the W20 oils. Just for a FYI, mine, at 200K miles, using only conventional oil from the previous owner, and mobil 1 5-30 from me, hardly uses any oils on my 10K miles oil change intervals.
 
very respectable for a 400K engine.

I do think that W20 is indeed not the correct oil for our engines. Not so much for the viscosity, but 0-20 and 5-20 do not have the same amount of protection additives for our old flat tappet engines, and our engines were not built with tolerances of today's engines which uses the W20 oils. Just for a FYI, mine, at 200K miles, using only conventional oil from the previous owner, and mobil 1 5-30 from me, hardly uses any oils on my 10K miles oil change intervals.

Oh I know, I just like being different and pushing things a little to see what happens. I actually like the 5w-20 I'm running, and I don't even mind the extra oil I have to buy, but having seen how well the Maxlife did in terms of helping seals/gaskets and all the conditioners it has in it — I'm very tempted to switch back. Maxlife is an excellent oil according to my own personal experience and the literature I've read. It's also very similar in terms of wear protection to what I'm using currently.

As you know though, at the end of the day, there's simply no "perfect" oil available. Each quality oil seems to shine in certain areas and I think for my high mileage engine, Maxlife may be the best compromise.

I actually find the oil wars pretty interesting and I'll continue to research my options. I'm always learning something new these days, but I think ultimately, simply changing your oil and filter (regardless of brand) regularly and before they reach their saturation points — is more than enough to help prevent many issues and probably more than most people do. The same could be said for the cooling system as well.

Having a super high milage truck has been an eye-opening experience for me. It gives me new insight and appreciation for what it takes to make an engine/tranny keep going for nearly half a million miles.
 
In my case (3.4 V6) it will take 2 engines. First one cracked heads at 199K and then damaged lower block at 240K. New used engine is going in next month.

You have a 4 CYL so perhaps that is related to your good fortune.

Keep on trucking!
 
Who has a 4 cyl?

When Nissan said this:

CO2 emission:
A typical 4 cylidner 1.6 liter engine produces 450 g of CO2 for each mile (I couldn't find the CO2 emission for a 5vzfe).
For the 400K miles, you made 1.8X10^8 g of CO2
At 1 atmospheric pressure and 25 Celsius, that is 91,636,363.64 liters ofCO2!

I figured you had a 4 CYL. :reddance:
 

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