What else do I need to do??????

[Ol'Blue]

So my 99 is in the middle of a engine swap. While it's appart. What else should I do. I was thinking about "The big three" while it open and all sorts of room right now. Rear main will be done. I'm going to look at the flex plate also. I'll take suggestions now so I don't forget something stupid.

It's going on a 2000 mile road trip almost right after she is done.

Blue

 

[kiana]

What happened to your original engine?

 

[csp]

Timing belt/water pump/thermostat on the replacement engine if it has some miles on it. I wouldn't touch the rear main if it isn't leaking. That is one of those 'if it aint broke, don't fix it' types of repairs.

 

[kolelt]

Maybe front seal, valve cover gaskets if bad. Degrease everything so if new leaks appear you'll see them. If you do big 3. Use quality wire, quality wire ends, I recommend drilling small hole in the wire end and melding solder inside so the wire has good contact or cut small pieces of solder and put inside the wire end and use torch to melt it then stick your wire in. Marine grade shrink wrap. Wire loom and 3M electric tape. Use a bussmann breaker for your big 3 to protect it.

 

[JayRolla]

I would do the contact swap on the starter. Make sure you do inspect that flexplate.

 

[Ol'Blue]

Every gasket on the engine is done. It's on the stand still. Still have to do rear main seal. All timing stuff was taken off old engine. It was only 8,000 miles old.

The old engine blew head gaskets at 272,000 and I let it go to long and the coolant got into oil washed out lower end. So I said F it and am doing an engine swap.

Educated me on this starter contact thing you speak of.

Blue

 

[Ol'Blue]

Timing belt/water pump/thermostat on the replacement engine if it has some miles on it. I wouldn't touch the rear main if it isn't leaking. That is one of those 'if it aint broke, don't fix it' types of repairs.

Oh no. It's on the engine stand. It's getting one period no questions about it.

Blue

 

[JBurt]

If only you could find some trd headers... cough cough

 

[Ol'Blue]

If only you could find some trd headers... cough cough

If I only had the extra cash for a new in the box blower I would be set.

Blue

 

[JayRolla]

Every gasket on the engine is done. It's on the stand still. Still have to do rear main seal. All timing stuff was taken off old engine. It was only 8,000 miles old.

The old engine blew head gaskets at 272,000 and I let it go to long and the coolant got into oil washed out lower end. So I said F it and am doing an engine swap.

Educated me on this starter contact thing you speak of.

Blue

For starter contact replacement.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/63228-another-starter-contacts-removal-thread.html

 

[JBurt]

Well the silver lining is that a blower will be much easier to install on an engine in the bay than the headers would be.

 

[nissanh]

What about the oil cooler O-ring? and the hoses running into it.
Also get heater core hoses attached at the back of the engine right about the exhaust pipe.
I hope you also did the knock sensor wires.

 

[Ol'Blue]

What about the oil cooler O-ring? and the hoses running into it.
Also get heater core hoses attached at the back of the engine right about the exhaust pipe.
I hope you also did the knock sensor wires.

Oh yeah those are brand new buddy.

 

[Ol'Blue]

Well the silver lining is that a blower will be much easier to install on an engine in the bay than the headers would be.

Thise are going on before I drop the engine in. I'm not fighting the cross over pipe when it's in. What a pain in the ass.

Blue

 

[Ol'Blue]

What about the oil cooler O-ring? and the hoses running into it.
Also get heater core hoses attached at the back of the engine right about the exhaust pipe.
I hope you also did the knock sensor wires.

The oil cool looked solid so I left it alone. The hoses are new. I'll look at the heater core hoses and see what's up with them. Radiator hoses are new ish. Like a year old now.

 

[fblainen11]

For the amount of work required to do oil cooler o-rings (extremely minimal especially with engine out) I'd go ahead and do it.

It's like $15 for new OEM rings and with the engine out it will be a breeze.