What front springs with my Kings???

TRDHULK

New member
I currently have a 3" lift coil over kit from Trail Runner USA.

I have a set of Kings waiting to install. Fronts are used, rears are new.

I'm sending the fronts out to be rebuilt, and want to swap the springs.

I'm installing a 12k front winch with a SDHQ hidden winch mount, and a dual ARB compressor under the hood. No other weight other than my roof mounted Hi Lift.

I want to use Dobinsons for the springs since I have their C59-675V variable rate springs in the rear.

What spring rate should I get for the front Kings?

Thanks in advance!

T7LyqqB.jpg
 
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I currently have a 3" lift coil over kit from Trail Runner USA.

I have a set of Kings waiting to install. Fronts are used, rears are new.

I'm sending the fronts out to be rebuilt, and want to swap the springs.

I'm installing a 12k front winch with a SDHQ hidden winch mount, and a dual ARB compressor under the hood. No other weight other than my roof mounted Hi Lift.

I want to use Dobinsons for the springs since I have their C59-675V variable rate springs in the rear.

What spring rate should I get for the front Kings?

Thanks in advance!

T7LyqqB.jpg




Dobinson's front coils aren't compatible with the King struts. The Kings have a flat perch where the Dobinson's are designed for an offset coil.
Bilstein makes coils for lots of manufactures, I'd look at a 650# coil for the load you are talking about
 
Sorry to be off topic op, but can those 35s articulate off road? Your rig looks absolutely sick, and I’d love to go 35s, but from the image it looks like you’d have serious rubbing with any articulation. Curious if you’ve had it off road any?
 
Sorry to be off topic op, but can those 35s articulate off road? Your rig looks absolutely sick, and I’d love to go 35s, but from the image it looks like you’d have serious rubbing with any articulation. Curious if you’ve had it off road any?

So I've done quite a bit to prevent rubbing, including a DRT body mount relocation and hammered pinch welds.

The main problem area is the black rocker/fender cap. I could easily remove the cap and cut the fender behind it, but I'm trying to keep the stockish look as much as possible. I barely rub on this area, and I've already trimmed it quite a bit, but I'm working on modifying it just a little more.

I also plan to get some billet fully adjustable UCA's to allow a little more caster than the Camburg UCA's I currently have allow.

I dont rub any where else.

DAhEktE.jpg
 
So I've done quite a bit to prevent rubbing, including a DRT body mount relocation and hammered pinch welds.

The main problem area is the black rocker/fender cap. I could easily remove the cap and cut the fender behind it, but I'm trying to keep the stockish look as much as possible. I barely rub on this area, and I've already trimmed it quite a bit, but I'm working on modifying it just a little more.

I also plan to get some billet fully adjustable UCA's to allow a little more caster than the Camburg UCA's I currently have allow.

I dont rub any where else.

DAhEktE.jpg

That’s awesome!!! Thanks for the info man
 
I would go 600. I have 650 up front and I have a significantly heavier setup than you do and I have almost zero preload for 2.5” of lift.


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How much weight does the hidden winch mount, winch and compressor weigh ? I’m guessing 150lbs?

I currently have 600# and will switch to 650# once I install my winch. But I also have lo pro bumper, rsg sliders and gobi rack.

I think you’ll be okay with 650#.
 
650 is my vote. and get a kdss off switch Dr KDSS - KDSS to the next level

Thank you. TRD Pro's don't offer KDSS

I would go 600. I have 650 up front and I have a significantly heavier setup than you do and I have almost zero preload for 2.5” of lift.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I currently have 3" lift in the front, so the maintain that it seems 650 is the way to go


How much weight does the hidden winch mount, winch and compressor weigh ? I’m guessing 150lbs?

I currently have 600# and will switch to 650# once I install my winch. But I also have lo pro bumper, rsg sliders and gobi rack.

I think you’ll be okay with 650#.

yeah I'd guess around 150 lbs.

Thank you
 
I currently have 3" lift in the front, so the maintain that it seems 650 is the way to go

If you want maximum off road suspension performance 2.5" is the highest ride height KING recommends. So keep that in mind. Also, there are many schools of thought on this but if you go too stiff on your springs you will negatively impact your front suspension articulation. Probably wouldn't matter if you are running a sway bar but another thing to keep in mind.
 
If you want maximum off road suspension performance 2.5" is the highest ride height KING recommends. So keep that in mind. Also, there are many schools of thought on this but if you go too stiff on your springs you will negatively impact your front suspension articulation. Probably wouldn't matter if you are running a sway bar but another thing to keep in mind.

Thanks for the info. I am keeping my front sway bar. My truck spends most of its time on the road, but I do want to perform well when it does go off road.
 
If you want maximum off road suspension performance 2.5" is the highest ride height KING recommends. So keep that in mind. Also, there are many schools of thought on this but if you go too stiff on your springs you will negatively impact your front suspension articulation. Probably wouldn't matter if you are running a sway bar but another thing to keep in mind.


I strongly agree with the 2.5" lift number, unless of course you are talking long travel. Another reason I favor 2.5" up front is you can then run 3" in the rear and still have some rake. Much more than 3" in the rear doesn't preform great either.
 
ohhhh. i mustve read someone else's sig lol.

x4 on the other comments about lift. If you spend some extra time cycling and clearance'ing the tires you'll LOVE the extra droop you get when not running the kings maxed way out at 3" of lift.

I think i'm at 2-2.5" with mine, still rub at full bump, just enough to take the paint off the fenders and fender liners. thats just with 33's. IDK how ya'll do it with 35's. tub the fenders?
 
Someone REALLY needs to build a airbag to fit with a coil spring up front or an air shock for a secondary shock setup for the front so we can have adjustable height on the fly. I tried when I swapped to GX rear air suspension for a while, but no one would make me a front airbag that fit a 2.5" shock.

The ride is much nicer at stock or near stock height. Having the ability to run stock height until you really need more clearance and then go up 3" would be the dream setup IMO. Like Lexus AHC in the LX. It would solve so many issue we have with the 4R. But it really should be a air/coil spring combo so spring rate remains the same at each height. It's a tricky problem to solve in the limited space up front. Rear is easy.

All it would really take is an air cup or air bag that could adjust from 2" to 4" in length and mount on the top of a 12" or so coil spring. That's really all we'd need. I've thought about a few other ways to make it work with a custom upper strut mount or even some small hydraulic options. But a simple air over coil would be the best bet if someone would make them. If i could build one myself I'd do it.

It would solve a lot of problems like this one. No need for guessing spring rates. Just set to the height you want. Don't like it - adjust up or down at the push of a button. But with a coil holding most of the weight, so if the air fails you're still just running at normal height.
 
I don't think its a king thing, but 2 to 2.5 lift is the sweet spot for our suspension, it's just the other manufactures don't want to acknowledge that for marketing purposes. Its a dick measuring contest between the manufactures.

I don't think the OP has a choice but to run a 3 inch lift to clear 35's.
 
I don't think its a king thing, but 2 to 2.5 lift is the sweet spot for our suspension, it's just the other manufactures don't want to acknowledge that for marketing purposes. Its a dick measuring contest between the manufactures.

I don't think the OP has a choice but to run a 3 inch lift to clear 35's.

yea there isnt much adjustment range when theres only 9" of travel, runs outta droop real quick. (i found out recently that gen 2 tundras can pull almost 11" with just uppers and extended coilovers....wtf)



if he cranks them up to 3" to clear, that doesnt change the fact itll still rub when it compresses. his arms still have the same amount of travel theyre just sitting in the bottom range when daily driving. or upper range, i guess depends on how you look at it? lol
 
Someone REALLY needs to build a airbag to fit with a coil spring up front or an air shock for a secondary shock setup for the front so we can have adjustable height on the fly. I tried when I swapped to GX rear air suspension for a while, but no one would make me a front airbag that fit a 2.5" shock.

The ride is much nicer at stock or near stock height. Having the ability to run stock height until you really need more clearance and then go up 3" would be the dream setup IMO. Like Lexus AHC in the LX. It would solve so many issue we have with the 4R. But it really should be a air/coil spring combo so spring rate remains the same at each height. It's a tricky problem to solve in the limited space up front. Rear is easy.

All it would really take is an air cup or air bag that could adjust from 2" to 4" in length and mount on the top of a 12" or so coil spring. That's really all we'd need. I've thought about a few other ways to make it work with a custom upper strut mount or even some small hydraulic options. But a simple air over coil would be the best bet if someone would make them. If i could build one myself I'd do it.

It would solve a lot of problems like this one. No need for guessing spring rates. Just set to the height you want. Don't like it - adjust up or down at the push of a button. But with a coil holding most of the weight, so if the air fails you're still just running at normal height.

Convert these to coilovers or add it like LT kits do bypass and you'd get what you're describing: Please Wait... | Cloudflare
krs-pr2514-asnr-main-1500_6_2.jpg
 
Thanks for the info. I am keeping my front sway bar. My truck spends most of its time on the road, but I do want to perform well when it does go off road.

Do you do any higher speed off roading or mostly just trails and crawling? (and I know you like mud from your IG lol)

If not really looking for preventing bottoming out at higher speeds, 650lb would be ideal (I have 650lb with no extra weight and 6112's, and I like it a lot but I bomb pretty hard). If you do plan on going faster, I'd go 700lb.

Do you have progressive bump stops already? If not, get some of those for sure (durobumps have my vote).
 

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