What is leaking?

[wutagoalie]

I just recently noticed that i have a leak of some sort , not sure what it is so i took a pic. What is this leaky part.

Thanks
03 V8 Limited

 

[BlackWorksInc]

That looks like it could be coming from the Actuator O-Ring, which is a bit of a pain to replace.

 

[bytemaster0]

4WD/4LO transfer actuator seal. VERY expensive to replace - the whole actuator needs to be replaced - that being said, there is a way to do it yourself without replacing the whole actuator, while replacing just the seal, but you must be quite experienced to do it. I just had to replace mine because my actuator for 4Lo was seized. $2300 - the only way to replace that seal is to open up the transfer case and remove the actuator - which must then be replaced. Check the forums for more information on the 4x4 actuator.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

This fix has held up for me for over a year. Would recommend starting there.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/82316-got-leak-need-input.html

 

[bytemaster0]

This fix has held up for me for over a year. Would recommend starting there.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/82316-got-leak-need-input.html

I appreciate the desire to save money - but I'd be quite hesitant to put an leak stop additive into that beautiful transfer case - who knows what it's doing to that Torsen T3!

 

[BlackWorksInc]

This is an expensive repair because to replace the little o-ring, the transfer case must be opened up to un-pin the actuator from the case so you can properly remove it.

There are others who have done this without having to tear apart the actuator case, but I am still very skeptical of this method.

Broken actuator after o-ring fix? - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

The method is talked about in this thread as well as the OP's experience with the procedure. I would like to warn you ahead of time that it is very easy to screw things up and you can easily bend the shift fork shaft and require a new or rebuilt transfer case as a result if you don't know what you're doing.

Not trying to scare you away, but I believe in doing the job the right way and even though some technicians have found a "quicker" way to do these actuators without removing the transfer case, a lot of those vehicles end up having actuator or transfer case issues later down the line, which makes me hesitant to believe it's as safe as proclaimed.

 

[wutagoalie]

This is an expensive repair because to replace the little o-ring, the transfer case must be opened up to un-pin the actuator from the case so you can properly remove it.

There are others who have done this without having to tear apart the actuator case, but I am still very skeptical of this method.

Broken actuator after o-ring fix? - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

The method is talked about in this thread as well as the OP's experience with the procedure. I would like to warn you ahead of time that it is very easy to screw things up and you can easily bend the shift fork shaft and require a new or rebuilt transfer case as a result if you don't know what you're doing.

Not trying to scare you away, but I believe in doing the job the right way and even though some technicians have found a "quicker" way to do these actuators without removing the transfer case, a lot of those vehicles end up having actuator or transfer case issues later down the line, which makes me hesitant to believe it's as safe as proclaimed.

Just wondering how experienced do you need to be to perform this operation? By no means am I a mechanic, but i am very handy, and also own a haynes manual.

What fluid is leaking? ive checked all my levels, they seem to be fine?

 

[jimithing]

What fluid is leaking? ive checked all my levels, they seem to be fine?

It's the transfer case fluid that's leaking. There's no dipstick for it. Just a drain and fill plug. Check out the first post of this thread:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maint...ntial-transfer-case-fluids-pics-included.html

I have no experience actually changing the case so I'll leave that question to someone else. Depending on how fast it's leaking you could live with it a while by just filling the case every once and a while. You want to stay on top of it though, don't let it get too low.

 

[wutagoalie]

It's the transfer case fluid that's leaking. There's no dipstick for it. Just a drain and fill plug. Check out the first post of this thread:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maint...ntial-transfer-case-fluids-pics-included.html

I have no experience actually changing the case so I'll leave that question to someone else. Depending on how fast it's leaking you could live with it a while by just filling the case every once and a while. You want to stay on top of it though, don't let it get too low.

Does this make sense to everyone, 75w90 for the front diff and to top up the transfer case?
and 80w90 for the rear diff?

 

[jimithing]

Does this make sense to everyone, 75w90 for the front diff and to top up the transfer case?
and 80w90 for the rear diff?

You can use the same weight in all of them. I think Toyota recommends 80w90 but most people on here have put in 75W90 in all of them because 80w90 isn't as easy to find.

 

[TRDCal]

Mines leaking too. But it doesn't seem too hard to change according to this Transfer Case Leak.

And even this guy (Broken actuator after o-ring fix? - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum) got everything worked out without big expense.

EDIT: Actually I take this back, he did have a big expense in the end.

 

[wutagoalie]

Mines leaking too. But it doesn't seem too hard to change according to this Transfer Case Leak.

And even this guy (Broken actuator after o-ring fix? - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum) got everything worked out without big expense.

Can anyone confirm that either of these have worked for them?

 

[DC runner]

NO. IN fact if you click on the bottom leak; you see he ended up destroying the transfer case and replacing it.

If it is a slow leak and you don't want to spend 2000 or more for a new one; just treat it as you would a minor engine leak. Check it and keep oil in it. Get a handle on the leak for a couple weeks, every weekend check it. If you figure out that 1 every 4 or 5 months you need to put a bit in; there you go.

Not every leak is the end of the world.

 

[TRDCal]

NO. IN fact if you click on the bottom leak; you see he ended up destroying the transfer case and replacing it.

If it is a slow leak and you don't want to spend 2000 or more for a new one; just treat it as you would a minor engine leak. Check it and keep oil in it. Get a handle on the leak for a couple weeks, every weekend check it. If you figure out that 1 every 4 or 5 months you need to put a bit in; there you go.

Not every leak is the end of the world .

Agree. But I believe the big expense came from the transfer case running dry because the oil seal got "jacked" up from incorrect installation. He didn't destroy the case from a direct complication with the shortcut to removing the actuator.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Agree. But I believe the big expense came from the transfer case running dry because the oil seal got "jacked" up from incorrect installation. He didn't destroy the case from a direct complication with the shortcut to removing the actuator.

Yeah, but look at the link within that thread they referenced, one of the posters in that original thread (Not the 120 one) stated that they saw leaks and other issues after that "shortcut" was performed. Honestly, that method makes me wary, that shift rod is pinned into the actuator from inside of the transfer case and it really doesn't take much to bend a shift rod.

Though there was a method a member posted recently about gutting the entire actuator to replace the seal I thought was interesting.

 

[TRDCal]

Yeah, but look at the link within that thread they referenced, one of the posters in that original thread (Not the 120 one) stated that they saw leaks and other issues after that "shortcut" was performed. Honestly, that method makes me wary, that shift rod is pinned into the actuator from inside of the transfer case and it really doesn't take much to bend a shift rod.

With you being a Toyota mechanic, how hard is it to split the T-case to unpin the actuator. I'm sure it doesn't have to be 100% dismantled, just taken apart enough to do what needs to be done. I've split a manual transmission, never a t-case tho.

 

[TRDCal]

Bump for any knowledge on how difficult it is to split a transfer case?

 

[wutagoalie]

NO. IN fact if you click on the bottom leak; you see he ended up destroying the transfer case and replacing it.

If it is a slow leak and you don't want to spend 2000 or more for a new one; just treat it as you would a minor engine leak. Check it and keep oil in it. Get a handle on the leak for a couple weeks, every weekend check it. If you figure out that 1 every 4 or 5 months you need to put a bit in; there you go.

Not every leak is the end of the world.

True, i should just play it simple, drop the oil, put in some stop leak and fresh oil, and hope for the best. I know everyone is happy with the "white Shepperd" but i cant find it here in Ontario Canada. Is anyone from this area that knows of a product that will work the same?

 

[03_4x4Runner]

You can get it on Amazon.

 

[hkollie1]

Not happy with White Shepard!!

made my leak worse. It was no problem, I should have left it well alone. Now my leak is worse and it also leaks at tranny seal.

I would monitor slow leaks....my poor baby 142,000, what did i do to you?!?!?!?? Oh the pain!:bash::bash: