What is The Max Off of MSRP on a Trail Edition?

OhThatGuy

New member
I've been shopping around for a new trail addition and have only been able to get something like $2,500 off of MSRP. It seems like some folks here have gotten closer to $4K off. Any suggestions on how to do that? I need to hide about $3,400 in negative equity on my trade into the deal.

Also, are there any major dealer incentives to move new 2012's that would make those a more sensible option for a guy pinching pennies?

I'm planning to get a gray one with nav and dynamic suspension FWIW.
 
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I got my '12 TE with KDSS and basic stereo for better than $2K below invoice last Feb. That included all license and dealer fees.
 
I got my '12 TE with KDSS and basic stereo for better than $2K below invoice last Feb. That included all license and dealer fees.

Wow, below invoice?! That was what, like $5K off of the MSRP? Was it some special factory to dealer incentives that made that happen? If so, any idea if that sort of thing is out there to be leveraged now?
 
$2k below invoice sounds like a screaming deal! Not sure if that would be possible in my neck of the woods where there are few TEs to be found. I paid a little over invoice. I was happy, the dealer was happy, and I am still happy.
 
Wow, below invoice?! That was what, like $5K off of the MSRP? Was it some special factory to dealer incentives that made that happen? If so, any idea if that sort of thing is out there to be leveraged now?

No special deals or incentives, they even had to order it to get the color and options I wanted. I just used normal negotiating tactics. I shopped around, got written quotes and had numbers from web sites. I told them what I was willing to pay and stuck to it. When they realized I was going to walk (I was getting up to leave) they said OK. Most people say I can be a SOB when it comes to working deals but I didn't do anything the car buying websites don't also tell you to do.

The only thing in my favor is the 4Runners are fairly common here in CO and there are plenty of Toyota dealers which means I had plenty of dealers to chose from. I covered about a 75mi radius from my home and ended up buying from a dealer about 18mi away, not the closest one.
 
Wouldn't they be losing money on it to go that far below invoice without some incentives in the mix?

If they were going to loose money, they wouldn't sell it pure and simple. If they sell below cost the won't be in business very long. A fair price is the absolute lowest price you can pay for it. You're not there to give them one penny more than you have to. As I said, if they are going to lose money they don't have to sell it to you and you can be sure that they won't.

Some things to remember when buying any new vehicle:
*) Have all the numbers fully researched. Know what invoice is. Know what other kickbacks (called holdbacks) number are etc. Research, research, research. Knowledge is power for you, ignorance is giving power to the dealer. The sales person is trained how to get make a sale and get the highest price they can. They do this day in and out every day, it's their job. You on the other hand only do this once every few years at best. The last time I purchased a new truck was in '93. Who has the advantage under those circumstances? Hint: it's not the buyer.
*) Deal on the full out the door price, not on monthly payments or what they call "price ++", which means price plus dealer fees and doc fees. Those are dealer tactics to charge you more. Always work with the full price including EVERYTHING. The only thing you can let them not include during negotiations is tax since it depends on the sale price. Make sure they include licensing fees though since they are fixed.
*) In many states the dealer in the next county will have a lower tax rate, a dealer outside city limits will also have a lower tax rate. Now how that affects your total cost and use it to your advantage.
*) Remember, don't tell the dealer ANYTHING you don't have to, they are pros at turning anything you say to their advantage.
*) Be prepared to walk and if you don't get what you want do it. I did before I finally had the deal I wanted.
*) Don't let them tell you they are loosing money, if they aren't going to make a profit they won't sell it.
*) A new dealer will usually deal more than old established dealers. They need the sales to keep their allotment from Toyota.
*) Deal on just the truck and options you want. If they try to sell you something with other options, use it against them. It's not what you want so why should you pay extra for something you don't even want?
*) Have financing worked out ahead of time. The dealers money man is hired to make more money for the dealer, not to help you!!!
*) If you have a trade-in, you'll make more selling it your self. If you trade it with the dealer, negotiate that separate from what you're buying. Bundling is a dealer tactic to make more money.
 
True cost TIP

I posted this tip for another user and thought it might help here...

I was a manger in a Toyota-Honda dealership for 15 years. It is easy to find invoice on what ever model you are wanting. Take approx $900 off of that for HOLDBACK (extra money from Toyota to dealer for advertising etc) to get true cost. Work up from that number NOT down from MSRP or NEVER buy any car based on a payment.......... Negotiate price, throw in a trade and say you have your own financing (go to bankrate.com and give them the lowest rate you can find. They will typically match it based on your credit score. Another tip is don't be afraid to get up and walk away.... Magically the price drops when you do this.... A managers job is to move a car... A salesmans job is to make gross (profit). Hope this helps.... Always ask for something extra when you feel the price is finally right..... Tire swap etc, all season mats...
 
Great advice guys-thank you! I'm just hoping to get 'out the door' and not have much money out of pocket. The trade value on my C63 AMG is around $35K and the pay off is $38.4K. Trying to sneak that negative equity in along with all other taxes and fees while financing no more than what equates to MSRP (my credit union's figure for max loan value) has been tough.

I could sell my car for more but I lose the advantage of wiping out most of the sales tax on the 4Runner if I don't trade it (and I avoid the headaches of the sales process).
 
One last point.

Remember that there are only three times you'll hear that a price is NOT fair.
1) From the dealer.
2) From the guy that paid than you did.
3) From the guy that paid a lot less than you did.

Guess which is telling the truth.
 
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If they were going to loose money, they wouldn't sell it pure and simple. If they sell below cost the won't be in business very long. A fair price is the absolute lowest price you can pay for it. You're not there to give them one penny more than you have to. As I said, if they are going to lose money they don't have to sell it to you and you can be sure that they won't.

Some things to remember when buying any new vehicle:
*) Have all the numbers fully researched. Know what invoice is. Know what other kickbacks (called holdbacks) number are etc. Research, research, research. Knowledge is power for you, ignorance is giving power to the dealer. The sales person is trained how to get make a sale and get the highest price they can. They do this day in and out every day, it's their job. You on the other hand only do this once every few years at best. The last time I purchased a new truck was in '93. Who has the advantage under those circumstances? Hint: it's not the buyer.
*) Deal on the full out the door price, not on monthly payments or what they call "price ++", which means price plus dealer fees and doc fees. Those are dealer tactics to charge you more. Always work with the full price including EVERYTHING. The only thing you can let them not include during negotiations is tax since it depends on the sale price. Make sure they include licensing fees though since they are fixed.
*) In many states the dealer in the next county will have a lower tax rate, a dealer outside city limits will also have a lower tax rate. Now how that affects your total cost and use it to your advantage.
*) Remember, don't tell the dealer ANYTHING you don't have to, they are pros at turning anything you say to their advantage.
*) Be prepared to walk and if you don't get what you want do it. I did before I finally had the deal I wanted.
*) Don't let them tell you they are loosing money, if they aren't going to make a profit they won't sell it.
*) A new dealer will usually deal more than old established dealers. They need the sales to keep their allotment from Toyota.
*) Deal on just the truck and options you want. If they try to sell you something with other options, use it against them. It's not what you want so why should you pay extra for something you don't even want?
*) Have financing worked out ahead of time. The dealers money man is hired to make more money for the dealer, not to help you!!!
*) If you have a trade-in, you'll make more selling it your self. If you trade it with the dealer, negotiate that separate from what you're buying. Bundling is a dealer tactic to make more money.

Excelent advice

Do your home work so you know what you want to pay and walk away at anything different.
 
I too am about to buy a 2013 TE so all this info helps. Horrible thing for me I live in Hawaii and the dealerships can't keep 4runners in stock they sell out so quick. I fear I have a little less negotiating power.
 
So just to be sure that I have these numbers about right, is this approx. what the TE numbers look like?

Dynamic suspension + Nav = $41,000 MSRP
Invoice before taking out hold back approx. $38,000
Actual dealer cost invoice minus around $1K = $37,000

It seems like they'd make no money on a deal at $1K under invoice unless there is something I'm missing.
 
It seems like they'd make no money on a deal at $1K under invoice unless there is something I'm missing.

Maybe Toyota was running a private (unadvertised) deal with the dealers, maybe the published invoice wasn't the real invoice amount (how often do companies tell buyers what something costs them?). Who knows, all I can tell you is the deal I worked.
 
So just to be sure that I have these numbers about right, is this approx. what the TE numbers look like?

Dynamic suspension + Nav = $41,000 MSRP
Invoice before taking out hold back approx. $38,000
Actual dealer cost invoice minus around $1K = $37,000

It seems like they'd make no money on a deal at $1K under invoice unless there is something I'm missing.

Dealerships also make additional money from Toyota based on volume. High volume dealerships will move a vehicle at invoice minus holdback knowing that they will make money when they hit their numbers.
 
Deals in my area in TEs were not easy to find. $1500 off MSRP was the best I could find around here because the TEs are pretty rare(I think there were 6 in the Atlanta area). I managed to get a Certified used 2010 TE with KDSS and JBL Nav for $31500 OTD. 26k on the odo.

Just another angle to think about.
 
Deals in my area in TEs were not easy to find. $1500 off MSRP was the best I could find around here because the TEs are pretty rare(I think there were 6 in the Atlanta area). I managed to get a Certified used 2010 TE with KDSS and JBL Nav for $31500 OTD. 26k on the odo.

Just another angle to think about.

Good Point - Same thing here in the Pacific Northwest. When I got my TE there was only one in dealer inventory in the State of Washington. I too ended up buying a used 2010.
 
Weird, it seems like you guys should get more up there than down here in FL. They have several unsold 2012 trail editions on lots here but still aren't moving much off of MSRP. They are at least $3K away from matching some of the best deals folks have gotten. I'm holding out unless and until somebody gets me out the door (including tag, tax and $3,400 in negative equity) for MSRP or less.
 
I was quoted $37,717 (plus tax and reg) for a 2013 TE w/ KDSS and nav w/ both floor mats without any negotiation going through usaa's car buying service. I ended up paying a little more at another dealer to get the color I wanted, but I got them to pay the difference on my trade-in.

Seemed like a fair deal for the amount of effort.
 
I had a salesman quote me $38.6k for a black on black 2013 TE with the following options for the vehicle sitting on his lot. This was 1 week ago.

EE -display audio with Nav and Entune
KD - KDSS
WT - Window Tint

MSRP was $40.9k

The trail editions seem to be hard to find so you may not get as good a deal. Your best deal is going to be what is on their lot even though it may not have the options or colors you want. Or it could have more than you want.

So approx. 5.6% off.

Hope this helps.

AC
 

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