What I've learned about Duratrac tires on our trucks...

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So, after much research I decided a few months back to install a set of 265/70r17 Goodyear Duratracs to replace the crappy Big O tires that came on my truck.

I read many threads here that mentioned the tires needing higher pressures to ride normally and not get excessive road noise. So, like most others here, I jacked my pressure up to 44psi which seemed harsh, then worked my way down to about 38psi.

Months later, I pulled into a dusty shop and noticed, the entire outside knobs on my tires were clean. Upon further inspection I noticed there were no visible signs of wear at all on the corner knobs, what the hell? So, back to the internet. I discovered They make 3 different Duratracs in the 265/70R17 size, two light-truck tires which are labelled LT265/70R17 and a standard rating tire which doesn't have the LT designation.

I then worried I bought the wrong tires, since everyone else is using the LT designated model. However, I was informed by multiple mechanics that while the T4R is technically a truck, it's not. It's a nearly impossible scenario to put enough weight in the carpeted rear of a SUV to justify having a rigid truck tire. Many people think they need truck tires because of campers and large boats, but that doesn't affect the 4runner more than a few hundred to a max of 700lbs of tongue weight. All the rest of the weight depends on your trailers tires. So, since it's not a truck with a large rugged bed that you're going to fill with engine blocks, bricks, gravel, etc, there's very few reasons you would exceed the load limits of SUV tires which carry a SL rating.

People with the LT rated Duratracs are using a tire that most of them will never need, but that costs more, and rides rougher than the proper SL rated tires for our truck. Some may need the 10,000+lb load rating, but 99% of us do not, as physically managing to put that much weight in camping/wheeling/travelling equipment in our small carpeted cargo area, and roof rack is almost impossible.

With all that being said, I decided to figure out the optimal tire pressure for the SL Duratracs, since I cannot follow the guidelines of people with hardcore truck tires. I started at 36psi and let out 1psi at a time until my tread was sitting flat in the front, touching the floor edge to edge, and in the back all but about 1cm was, which I read was fine as it will all touch with a decent sized load.

What pressure did I arrive at? 32psi front and back. Exactly what it says in the damn door sticker. Hours wasted investigating common knowledge, because of reading too much into forum advice. Not only that, but the truck rides MUCH better. The bounciness I felt at 38psi was the result of the tire flexing and bouncing between flat and rounded, now that it's always flat across with the full tread touching, there is no more mild bounciness, the truck is planted to the road. There is better steering feel, and a clear center point on the wheel where the truck just tracks straight without drifting one way or the other.

A mechanic also told me that the profile is so rounded like that so it rides flat, but then the part of the tread that isn't touching the road flexes back to round, suddenly opening the grooves and shedding accumulated snow, which is why it's a severe snow rated tire.

Your Duratracs are SUPPOSE to make mild road noise, as the side knobs make noise at highway speeds. Your Duratracs are suppose to sit flat on the road, not ride on the center treads all day or it will wear extremely unevenly, and lose snow shedding ability.




SO, here is the TL;DR:
For most people there's zero reason to buy LT tires on a 4Runner, even if you are pulling a large load and piling stuff on the roof rack, that's still not much weight.

If you do use LT tires, you need to run an average of 12 PSI more air or the opposite problem occurs and you'll wear out the edges first.

If you have the correct SL rated Goodyear Duratrac tires in 265/70R17 or 265/65R17, 32 PSI is the recommended pressure, just as it says in the door. They are suppose to flex a little bit on the bottom to sit flat, and round everywhere else to open the grooves up.

Hope this helps someone so they don't have to screw with their tires as much as I have.
 
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I was under the impression that people would run the LT rating for the stiffer sidewall not as much for higher weight capability, but to be less likely to get a puncture in the sidewall especially when aired down. Could be wrong though.
 
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Nice right up I got 265/75r16 in load range c and I took them to the shop and got them mounted and everything and there at 31 so 31-32 is the sweet spot....
 
Nice right up I got 265/75r16 in load range c and I took them to the shop and got them mounted and everything and there at 31 so 31-32 is the sweet spot....

If yours are load range C, they are LT and need a lot more pressure than that. 32psi is for P metric tires, which the OP bought, and over-inflated.

Many of us run LT tires by choice because they are tougher and less likely to tear or puncture off road.
 
Once I get the new set of wheels painted, I'll be purchasing some tires. I decided on load range C because I felt the E rated tires would be a little much for a daily driver and a vehicle that rarely sees a loaded rear compartment. Actually, there have only been a handful of times on this forum where I saw someone looking for an LT tire because of the increased load capacity. 9 times out of 10 it's the higher ply count in the tread and sidewall that people are after for wheeling purposes as stated above. Also, when selecting tires, people are usually after a certain size in a specific tire. I made my size and tire choice and after a ton of research and with my decision I didn't have a choice. All tires, in every size offered were LT rated
 
Yeah, I actually have the P-rated 265/65/18's (newer to the duratrac line) and they've been wearing very evenly. In addition, I pull my 21' center console boat regularly. No issues with sidewall strength. I've loaded the back down with full tool boxes where the stock springs (before I installed the OME) were sagging like no other and still no problems with the tires. I really like these tires and for how aggressive they look they are fairly quiet.
 
I'll chime in on "durable" when you pick lt. We ran 2 versions of the duratracs but 1 was purchased as an lt the other was p rated. We got more mileage out of the p, and better off road performance because it was more pliable when aired down. Neither tire ever had a sidewall tear, but the lt tire was burned out by 30k and the p lasted in to the 40's before we had to replace. Also we made the same mistake of running too much air in both but only the p suffered.
 
I have 110k on my KO's and have experienced none of what you describe. 36-38psig all around.
 
I'll chime in on "durable" when you pick lt. We ran 2 versions of the duratracs but 1 was purchased as an lt the other was p rated. We got more mileage out of the p, and better off road performance because it was more pliable when aired down. Neither tire ever had a sidewall tear, but the lt tire was burned out by 30k and the p lasted in to the 40's before we had to replace. Also we made the same mistake of running too much air in both but only the p suffered.

This seems to be the opinion shared by any of the experienced people I've talked to as well. The only advantage the LT tires should have is higher load capacity. It would take a hell of a lot of weight in the back to make a LT tire be as pliable as the P rated tire with a minimal load.

I just got back from wheeling with the new pressures, and it was almost boring! There was no point where I almost got stuck, not even when I got hung up on the frame up front and was able to back off even with the rear tires in mud. These Duratracs just went from frustrating to amazing!
 
I was under the impression (could be wrong) that the higher the load rating - the tougher the tire (more ply in the side wall and tread). Although that vast majority probably don't need the extra strength for towing or hauling like a truck, the benefit of a tougher tire is plain if you live in a place with rough gravel roads.

Out here in northern labrador - there is a road that people travel to get to the south coast. It is 400km of rough rough gravel, with nowhere to stop, no place to grab a drink, and no place to top up fuel. Punctures are incredibly common such that many people who need to travel this road often get the higher load rating tires simply for the puncture resistance. The tire shops prefer the higher load tires as it keeps their warranty's down. There is a satellite phone / beacon service offered by a few spots in town - as there is no cell coverage, and if bad things happen on this road - you might be on your own for a bit.

A friend recently bought a brand new ecodiesel dodge pickup, and had a puncture on the way back from the dealership. Brand new light truck tires, and there are many similar stories.

I myself will be picking up a new set of boots this week, and probably will end up with BFG AT KO2's with load E. My pickup has Duratrac E's as well.
 
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Tonight was another night I am very happy to have duratracs! Never driven in so much rain and water, these things just did great compared to others I have owned or ridden on!

Back to what OP is talking about. SL (P) rated dura's haven't been out a year yet, at least I think. LT's have been out a long time so you have a lot more reviews and experiences with them.

My next set of tires will be dura's just not sure if LT or P, depends on which size I want! Hey Goodyear a (P) SL 285/70/17 would be AWESOME!!! Thanks
 
Great write up!
Have been debating about 265 Duratracs vs 275 BFG AT for a while now. Waiting on delivery of f (x) Pro's from FN Wheels. I'll be putting on 265 Duratracs SL.
I wish they made a 275's for a 17" wheel, never even would have thought about the BFG's.
I had 285 Duratracs E load on my Xterra for about 32k before I sold it, was very happy with them all around.
 
They're great in snow but crap off-road. I've had two sidewalls split and will never buy these expensive pieces of crap again. Just wanted to let those of you who get off the pavement that these are not the tires you want.
 
Good write up, but like others have mention you get an LT tire for strength on the side walls for off roading not for weight load.
 
They're great in snow but crap off-road. I've had two sidewalls split and will never buy these expensive pieces of crap again. Just wanted to let those of you who get off the pavement that these are not the tires you want.

I've had a sidewall puncture (more like a tear actually) when wheeling in some pretty sharp rock. No other significant damage yet though.

Would I buy them again? At this point, the jury is out. BFG MT's I had prior just seemed to be way more robust from a purely subjective standpoint.
 
I've had a sidewall puncture (more like a tear actually) when wheeling in some pretty sharp rock. No other significant damage yet though.

Would I buy them again? At this point, the jury is out. BFG MT's I had prior just seemed to be way more robust from a purely subjective standpoint.

Az Off Road is The 1 Reason I will Not Consider these Tires. I Like to Go Off Road and Come Back...Without Flats.:thumb:
 
I own these tires... 285 70 17. They are flat out garbage. Not only are they the most expensive tires that I have ever owned, but not one of them is round. They are all egg shaped from the factory, and that is after 3 different sets under warranty. Sure, they are great off road and in the snow (unless you happen to have any rocks near your tires, the sidewalls are less than 10mm thick)

I really, really wanted to like these tires. 1 of them had a sidewall problem and was replaced with a used cooper tire. Strangely, the only tire that seems to be balanced on my truck is the used cooper AT tire, the remaining 3 dura tracs still wobble like crazy at 70 mph.

1 good thing about them is that they haven't worn down even 1/16th after 10,000 miles. So I might just throw them on craigslist as having 90% tread (which is true) and get something else. Anybody want them?
 
I've had a chance to run the duratracs SL 255/75/17 on my FX pro rims before switching to KO2 265/70/17 LR C. Obviously the duratracs were a little more comfortable (you feel less road imperfections) due to its softer sidewall and possibly softer compound, but the steering feel is noticeably less direct and have a bit of a lag in steering input at higher highway speeds. I much prefer the feeling of direct steering control over the negligible comfort gains. The duratracs were surprisingly quiet even at highway speeds, they had a slight hum which I actually enjoyed while the KO2 were a tad quieter on highway.
I didn't get a chance to take the duratracs into serious terrain but I did have a chance to take them onto some slightly unmaintained service roads. This was the deal breaker for me, the duratracs had me sliding and unable to hold a line whole lot more than usual compared to my original KO's. I don't know if it that was attributed to the skinner/taller tire or just the tire design itself but I was not into them in that aspect. Another thing that convinced me to change them out for KO2 was the sidewall durability. They might have been fine offroad but it was always in the back of my mind that they weren't as stout
 

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