What kind of a seal is this?

[mp21]

I am replacing the front CV axles on my 2004 4Runner.
On the passenger side I see what looks like a disintegrated seal.
The attached picture is taken standing in front of the vehicle.
The section of concern is what looks like a very thin coiled metal wire on the lower side. On the top you can see the intact portion that looks like a black rubberized seal.
Any idea what kind of seal this is and how to replace it?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Silver4RunnerIS300]

I am replacing the front CV axles on my 2004 4Runner.
On the passenger side I see what looks like a disintegrated seal.
The attached picture is taken standing in front of the vehicle.
The section of concern is what looks like a very thin coiled metal wire on the lower side. On the top you can see the intact portion that looks like a black rubberized seal.
Any idea what kind of seal this is and how to replace it?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

That's your knuckle seal. Should be replaced when pulling your axle. Kind of a PITA.

National part number 710573

You'll have to pry it off working around the sides until it pops off then seat the new one. There's a special tool for the job but I used a cylinder that was just the right size and a mallet. It might be easier to pull the knuckle while doing this.


http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=143424

 

[Trumpet]

Also known as a lip seal.

 

[theoutbackdream]

That's your knuckle seal. Should be replaced when pulling your axle. Kind of a PITA.

National part number 710573

You'll have to pry it off working around the sides until it pops off then seat the new one. There's a special tool for the job but I used a cylinder that was just the right size and a mallet. It might be easier to pull the knuckle while doing this.


Replaced CV's, Now have steering knuckle seal issues - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

Is it a must?

I actually just pulled my axle... Didn't change the seal, but did lube it a bit...

 

[Silver4RunnerIS300]

Is it a must?

I actually just pulled my axle... Didn't change the seal, but did lube it a bit...

The seal is for the hub really and I wouldn't want moisture or environmental gunk getting into that area. I'm just saying it should be replaced. Especially if it looks like OPs. If he doesn't replace the seal that hub bearing will start to fail/produce noise in due time.

 

[Phils4th]

You don't want to fling grease on your brakes, either.

 

[mp21]

How in the world did you pull out the old seal?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[metramm]

I literally just replaced my driver's side seal this past Friday when I replaced my CV axles (with CVJ) due to the same issue you see. I had the little wire coming out of the rubber gasket and had to replace it.

From what I remember, I used a small pry tool to get behind the steel ring on the outside and gently pry it out, working my way around the gasket so it came out evenly.

Wipe off any old gunk/grease from inside the hub before re-installing.

When re-installing, DO NOT use a punch. It will dent the seal and you will need to purchase a new one. Ask me how I know :ybrick:

I bought two seals just in case. Oh and the National part number mentioned is the correct one.

Anyways, for reinstallation, put a bit of Vaseline on the inside of the seal and use a small 2x4 that is cut to the size of the seal. It should fit inside the ring and press up against the steel part.

Use this and a small rubber mallet to evenly press in the new seal. I held the knuckle while my uncle hammered it in gently.

With one person, the knuckle might flop. Try to have two people.

Good luck and I'll be online if you need any further explanation or help.

metramm

 

[theoutbackdream]

I literally just replaced my driver's side seal this past Friday when I replaced my CV axles (with CVJ) due to the same issue you see. I had the little wire coming out of the rubber gasket and had to replace it.

From what I remember, I used a small pry tool to get behind the steel ring on the outside and gently pry it out, working my way around the gasket so it came out evenly.

Wipe off any old gunk/grease from inside the hub before re-installing.

When re-installing, DO NOT use a punch. It will dent the seal and you will need to purchase a new one. Ask me how I know :ybrick:

I bought two seals just in case. Oh and the National part number mentioned is the correct one.

Anyways, for reinstallation, put a bit of Vaseline on the inside of the seal and use a small 2x4 that is cut to the size of the seal. It should fit inside the ring and press up against the steel part.

Use this and a small rubber mallet to evenly press in the new seal. I held the knuckle while my uncle hammered it in gently.

With one person, the knuckle might flop. Try to have two people.

Good luck and I'll be online if you need any further explanation or help.

metramm

Did you remove the steering ball joint to gain access to the seal better?

Is the rubber seal very hard to remove and replace? Judging by your post, it seems quite straight forward, but adding the fact that it needs to be perfectly even, and the fact that it took 2 people just makes it seem much harder than it should be... or at least in my mind...

 

[mp21]

So, we replaced both sides using the National ones.
It was definitely a two-man job.

What we used:

- A pry bar to carefully remove the old seals
- The dust cover to seat the seals.
- A BFH to help the dust cover "persuade" the seals to get all the way in
- Grease
- My finest collection of "choice words" (in this case in an obscure foreign language to protect the neighborhood kids)

The biggest PITA was that on the passenger side we had installed the new axle. Do this before installing the axle!!!!

 

[metramm]

Glad you got it seated and didn't damage it!

That was probably the hardest of my cv axle replacement. Everything else went smoothly.

Hope the rest of your installation goes well!

 

[metramm]

Did you remove the steering ball joint to gain access to the seal better?

Is the rubber seal very hard to remove and replace? Judging by your post, it seems quite straight forward, but adding the fact that it needs to be perfectly even, and the fact that it took 2 people just makes it seem much harder than it should be... or at least in my mind...

I didn't remove the steering ball joint, no. I did have to disconnect the knuckle from the lower control arm via the two bolts to gain better access.

The rubber seal comes on the ring when it is purchased. Installation was pretty straight forward but I had to hold the knuckle so it would not flop around while it was gently hammered in. Not too difficult really. 20 minutes tops.

 

[theoutbackdream]

For anyone who comes across this thread later, I did a little write up in my build thread. It was very easy, and took me all about 30minutes. No assistance needed.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...mited-toyota-4runner-build-6.html#post2770316

 

[Albrazzi]

Is it a must?

I actually just pulled my axle... Didn't change the seal, but did lube it a bit...

Only if it never rains.

 

[KaseyMcc]

That's your knuckle seal. Should be replaced when pulling your axle. Kind of a PITA.

National part number 710573

You'll have to pry it off working around the sides until it pops off then seat the new one. There's a special tool for the job but I used a cylinder that was just the right size and a mallet. It might be easier to pull the knuckle while doing this.


Replaced CV's, Now have steering knuckle seal issues - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

Can also use the dust cap that you pulled off to get to the crown nut/cotter pin so you could pull the axle from the hub assembly. The cap fits perfectly inside the rim of the seal you're trying to tap back in. I ran an emery cloth on the inside of the lip where the seal pounds into to kind of clean it up a bit (nothing crazy) then put a bit of gear oil around the lip and around the lip of the seal itself. Was no trouble at all.