What to do about UCAs and UCA "stuff"?

My understanding is that this wasn't an issue of being worn down. The tapered stud is where the problem was, not with the joint itself. The stud was shearing off, and I'm never heard of a grade 8 bolt being used on a uni-ball doing this. I'm not trying to start anything here, just pointing out the simple facts. Staying away from something with a known failure is a good piece of mind (at least for me). Everything breaks, and it could be something as simple as lack of maintenance. Uni-balls are inherently stronger just due to the materials. The upper ball joints are cast where the uni-balls are chromoly.

I was of the understanding typically the joint worn down until it wasn't tight and slipped out, which is why you typically see the ball part of the joint still intact and still bolted to the LCA. I was unaware uniballs were 4130, everything I've seen said they were just stainless; so I agree from a materials perspective they would be vastly stronger.

Different experiences I guess, not trying to start anything either, you know I like talking to you about mechanical and engineering stuff :fencing:
 
Good to know that they stood behind their products, and took care of everybody. Everything will fail in time, and the more abuse they see the faster it'll happen.

I love you MStudt. You are the man! I know you will stand behind yours also. Cant wait to see what comes out.
 
:pop2:
I was of the understanding typically the joint worn down until it wasn't tight and slipped out, which is why you typically see the ball part of the joint still intact and still bolted to the LCA. I was unaware uniballs were 4130, everything I've seen said they were just stainless; so I agree from a materials perspective they would be vastly stronger.

Different experiences I guess, not trying to start anything either, you know I like talking to you about mechanical and engineering stuff :fencing:

The LBJ's on our do pull apart due to being worn. But, the LR's were a different issue all together. You are correct about the stainless by the way. For some reason I was think heims material, not uni-ball material. Now hurry up and finish your LT!
 
...They do awesome work, have some of the best customer service and always fix there issues....

+1 on their customer service. I've only called them twice but both times they were super cool & VERY helpful. They definitely went above & beyond what I was even expecting when I called.

First call: was regarding caster/camber adjustments to get my alignment closer to spec. The alignment shop I took it to didn't do anything but adjust the tie rods so I figured I'd do as much of the "alignment tuning" myself then take it back to the alignment shop for final adjustments and readings. Called SPC for some quick tips & they literally walked me through the entire process to get my caster/camber adjusted. They also helped me fix the tire rub on the rear wheel well issue that I was having & I wasn't even calling about that. The tire rub was something I mentioned briefly & they were nice enough to help me with that. The tip was if I adjust the caster/star plate to a more negative caster setting (moving from their recommended "D" setting to E, F, & so forth) it would move my wheel away from the rear wheel well. The trade off would be less caster. When I had my caster/star plate set at their most negative setting "G", I still had ~1.5-1.7 caster (no tire rub on rear wheel well). I currently have it set on "E" which changed my caster to ~2.5-2.7 (still no tire rub on rear wheel well but now that I have 1.5" wheel spacers I have a slight rub but thats a spacer issue). They even told me to have the alignment shop call them so they could walk them through the alignment process using the LR UCA. I didn't actually have the alignment shop call SPC but wow, that was a cool offer regardless.

*Side note, on the G & E setting, my steering wheel still self centered after turns and straight line stability was fine but the E setting might feel a little bit more stable but nothing dramatic.

Second call: Check to see if they offered any other spare parts for sale other then what was listed on their site b/c I bent my locking plate when torquing down my top nut. They said they don't sell the locking plate by itself so I asked them if they would be willing to sell it but they ended up shipping it to me for free. I offered a second time to pay especially since this was an error on my part and not a manufacturing flaw & b/c I like supporting good business so that the good ones stay in business & they again said it wasn't necessary...my locking plates arrived 2 days later (i only asked for 1 plate but they sent me 2). Pretty awesome customer service.

Summary of LR UCA: Just my experience & may not generalize to everyone
1. Great customer service. I thought Toytec's customer service was good until I dealt with SPC & they were buy far better.

2. Great adjustability with LR UCA to get my alignment closer to spec in regards to caster & camber, allowed tire clearance from UCA, & allowed tire clearance from rear wheel well. Also want to again state that I do not have any experience with the other aftermarket UCAs & they may have the same capabilities & great customer service.
 
+1 on their customer service.

Summary of LR UCA: Just my experience & may not generalize to everyone
1. Great customer service. I thought Toytec's customer service was good until I dealt with SPC & they were buy far better.

2. Great adjustability with LR UCA to get my alignment closer to spec in regards to caster & camber, allowed tire clearance from UCA, & allowed tire clearance from rear wheel well. Also want to again state that I do not have any experience with the other aftermarket UCAs & they may have the same capabilities & great customer service.

Im not going to lie. Ive called tons and tons of shops/performance part places in my time of building turbo 4 bangers. SPC has had best customer service than any of them. And thats saying a lot!
 
I wont make a big elaborate post. Sorry, Scott.

I like my SPC/LR UCA's. I go fast over bad stuff and they have held up great. Thousands of miles of that bad stuff.

Headstrong Offroad has the cheapest price around.
 
:heh:

Only $363.24 on eBay with free shipping. A little over $10 cheaper. :heh:

I'm thinking "wow" :)
Now, can I just bolt those up without adding anything? No extra bushings, etc?

Also, if I were to rebuild my OEM UCAs, wouldn't it cost within $100 and be a huge pain in the @$$?
 
I'm thinking "wow" :)
Now, can I just bolt those up without adding anything? No extra bushings, etc?

Also, if I were to rebuild my OEM UCAs, wouldn't it cost within $100 and be a huge pain in the @$$?

If you pull off the UCA's just replace them. You might be able to replace the poly bushings in the SPC's with Delrin bushings.

Plus it'll give you more time to drink beer. :cheers:
 
Mmmmm, beeeeer.
Oh, back on subject... When/if the UBJs need replacing, is that a much easier job with the SPCs? Are the UBJs for those special/expensive or hard to find?
 
Mmmmm, beeeeer.
Oh, back on subject... When/if the UBJs need replacing, is that a much easier job with the SPCs? Are the UBJs for those special/expensive or hard to find?

You can buy replacement uppers from SPC. Their part number is 25480118, and they go for around $55 each.
 
This might not matter for years, but... How easy is it to replace the UBJ?

Get a loaner press from Autozone. Shouldn't take you as long as replacing the UCA's. Put some anti-seize on the SPC ball joints before you install them. This will help in replacing them further down the line. It'll help keep them from rusting in place.
 
Get a loaner press from Autozone. Shouldn't take you as long as replacing the UCA's. Put some anti-seize on the SPC ball joints before you install them. This will help in replacing them further down the line. It'll help keep them from rusting in place.

You mean, put anti-seize on the tapered section?
 
Put it on the section that gets pressed into the vertical arms. You can also put it on the taper studs if you want.

Got it.

What would be the approximate cost if I were to replace the UBJs and bushings on both sides, with my stock UCAs, just in parts? Closer to $250 or $350?
 
Got it.

What would be the approximate cost if I were to replace the UBJs and bushings on both sides, with my stock UCAs, just in parts? Closer to $250 or $350?

You can buy OEM upper ball joints for around $40 each, and the UCA bushings I don't know about. I know they're a pain in the ass to change though.
 
Thanks for all the help Mike!

Now, what to do about LCA bushings? Take them to a shop to have the old pressed out and new pressed in?
 

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