What's more of a pain in the A$$

[Thirty4]

I have a 5th Gen SR5 and was considering the TRD or RCI front skid plate......the it hit me. What's more of a pain in the a$$, removing the skid plate or the factory coverings for an oil change? I am hoping the skid plate is easier. I do recall that after installing the lift, the factory cover did not fit all that well going back on. Essentially disabling the whole hinge advantage of the factory cover.

Please, let me know your opinions....especially if it's too cold outside and I take it to the dealer for an oil change.

 

[DriveT4R]

I believe the TRD front plate is only 4 bolts.

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[techno]

RCI's website says 'Service openings for easy service and oil changes without removal'.

 

[Thirty4]

Very nice....thanks for you input! Much appreciated.

 

[PWD4R]

RCI's website says 'Service openings for easy service and oil changes without removal'.

Lol if only there were websites

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[TK-422]

The RCI has two Allen bolts that hold on about a 6 x 8" access plate for access to the oil filter. There is also around a 3" hole in the rear to access the oil drain plug.
This for the 5th Gen at least.

 

[mrblah]

rci makes it really easy, and I would also buy a oil drain valve to make changing your oil even eaiser.

 

[TK-422]

I agree. I have a Fumoto F-103N sitting in my center console. If I would have known Toyota was going to change my oil again last weekend (don't ask) I would have had them replace it with the drain plug.

 

[Thirty4]

Absolutely appreciate the great information, I will look into the RCI heavily for sure. I do like to change my own oil, however, when it gets too cold here in the Midwest.....I usually take it to the dealer. No heated garage

 

[Liquidmantis]

I changed my oil yesterday, and went ahead and dropped the skid to install the Fumoto valve and not risk getting oil on the top of the skid. I also wanted to put anti-seize on the skid bolts. It's about a 30-second job to take the RCI skid off. On the KDSS skid the front bolt holes are open-slotted so you just loosen them. Remove the two rear skid bolts, the transmission skid will stay up from its rear bolts, and then just slide the front skid forward and off. Even if the non-KDSS requires fully removing the front two bolts it wouldn't be a big deal.

Since you mention the TRD skid I'm assuming you're looking at aluminum. It might be a bit more of a pain with a heavier steel skid. I guess in 5000 miles I'll find out how well the access holes in the RCI skid work.

 

[aroslv]

I have RCI skids and have purchased a fumoto valve, hoping I can do an oil change without dropping the skid. Not convinced though, seems like it might be easier and less messy just removing the skid. I only have 4k miles though, so another 6k before I do my first oil change. I will definitely have to remove it for the first one to install the valve.

Anyone else with RCI skid plates that has actually done an oil change and can confirm it can easily be done without dropping the skid plate?

 

[Thirty4]

I changed my oil yesterday, and went ahead and dropped the skid to install the Fumoto valve and not risk getting oil on the top of the skid. I also wanted to put anti-seize on the skid bolts. It's about a 30-second job to take the RCI skid off. On the KDSS skid the front bolt holes are open-slotted so you just loosen them. Remove the two rear skid bolts, the transmission skid will stay up from its rear bolts, and then just slide the front skid forward and off. Even if the non-KDSS requires fully removing the front two bolts it wouldn't be a big deal.

Since you mention the TRD skid I'm assuming you're looking at aluminum. It might be a bit more of a pain with a heavier steel skid. I guess in 5000 miles I'll find out how well the access holes in the RCI skid work.

You are correct, one of the things that drew me to the TRD skid plate was that it was aluminium/light-weight. For those instances where I would have to take it to the dealer for an oil change, I want to completely remove the skid plate so that the techs do not have a field day on the bolts. I have never met a tech that treats your car/truck as if it's their own car/truck, so I would rather handle that myself.

Thanks for the tip on the anti-seize, I would DEFINITELY want to do that. Is it just any old run-of-the-mill anti-seize from an automotive store?

Thanks

 

[Liquidmantis]

Thanks for the tip on the anti-seize, I would DEFINITELY want to do that. Is it just any old run-of-the-mill anti-seize from an automotive store?

I used Permatex and would go with either that or Loc-Tite Anti-Seize. One or both should be available at any auto parts shop or Home Depot/Lowes.

I've seen a couple of tales of those captured nuts getting snapped free on the board, so definitely don't let someone else deal with the skids. That's why I added the anti-seize too.

 

[Thirty4]

I used Permatex and would go with either that or Loc-Tite Anti-Seize. One or both should be available at any auto parts shop or Home Depot/Lowes.

I've seen a couple of tales of those captured nuts getting snapped free on the board, so definitely don't let someone else deal with the skids. That's why I added the anti-seize too.

I will check those brands out and thanks again! It's best to arm yourself with as much information as possible. That's why I love this forum. I used to be on the FJ Cruiser forum avidly when I had my FJ. So, trying to start over learning about a 4runner is as fun as it is challenging.

 

[mrblah]

I have RCI skids and have purchased a fumoto valve, hoping I can do an oil change without dropping the skid. Not convinced though, seems like it might be easier and less messy just removing the skid. I only have 4k miles though, so another 6k before I do my first oil change. I will definitely have to remove it for the first one to install the valve.

Anyone else with RCI skid plates that has actually done an oil change and can confirm it can easily be done without dropping the skid plate?

I have done my own oil change with RCI skids and the fumoto valve. You can do your oil change without removing your skid plates. The rci has a hole for the plug at the back, and door in the front for the filter.

The valve makes oil changes easier because all you need is a finger to turn on/off the valve and is protected by the skid plate. Now, it will still be messy even with the valve, but you can stick a tube to the end of the valve, and viola, no mess. If you don't have a valve, the RCI hole is big enough to stick a wrench or socket wrench in, to remove the plug, and big enough for the oil to drain out.

Now removing the filter without making a mess................. even using the toyota supplied plastic nipple thingie, you will still probably make a mess.

This is the main reason I went with RCI vs. the TRD skid plate. Easy oil changes.

 

[aroslv]

I have done my own oil change with RCI skids and the fumoto valve. You can do your oil change without removing your skid plates. The rci has a hole for the plug at the back, and door in the front for the filter.

The valve makes oil changes easier because all you need is a finger to turn on/off the valve and is protected by the skid plate. Now, it will still be messy even with the valve, but you can stick a tube to the end of the valve, and viola, no mess. If you don't have a valve, the RCI hole is big enough to stick a wrench or socket wrench in, to remove the plug, and big enough for the oil to drain out.

Now removing the filter without making a mess................. even using the toyota supplied plastic nipple thingie, you will still probably make a mess.

This is the main reason I went with RCI vs. the TRD skid plate. Easy oil changes.

Thanks, I did get some tubing as well. So sounds like the oil filter will be the only thing that is a little messy.

 

[aroslv]

You are correct, one of the things that drew me to the TRD skid plate was that it was aluminium/light-weight. For those instances where I would have to take it to the dealer for an oil change, I want to completely remove the skid plate so that the techs do not have a field day on the bolts. I have never met a tech that treats your car/truck as if it's their own car/truck, so I would rather handle that myself.

Thanks for the tip on the anti-seize, I would DEFINITELY want to do that. Is it just any old run-of-the-mill anti-seize from an automotive store?

Thanks

RCI has aluminum skid plates as well that are fairly light-weight. They do look thicker than the PRO ones so I am sure they weigh more.

 

[Thirty4]

RCI has aluminum skid plates as well that are fairly light-weight. They do look thicker than the PRO ones so I am sure they weigh more.

Thank you, I will be considering all light-weight options, so this information helps. I don't think I will be in a situation where I would need steel. At least not yet.

 

[gm350reratliff]

The RCI has two Allen bolts that hold on about a 6 x 8" access plate for access to the oil filter. There is also around a 3" hole in the rear to access the oil drain plug.
This for the 5th Gen at least.

Correct. Much easier to drop the door than the whole skid plate.

rci makes it really easy, and I would also buy a oil drain valve to make changing your oil even eaiser.

I also recommend the Fumoto valve and the plastic nipples that clip on the valve with a short piece of hose.

I have RCI skids and have purchased a fumoto valve, hoping I can do an oil change without dropping the skid. Not convinced though, seems like it might be easier and less messy just removing the skid. I only have 4k miles though, so another 6k before I do my first oil change. I will definitely have to remove it for the first one to install the valve.

Anyone else with RCI skid plates that has actually done an oil change and can confirm it can easily be done without dropping the skid plate?

I probably have about 10 or so oil changes on the RCI skids and Fumoto valve and I find it much easier with the RCI skids vs. dropping the OEM skids. I have the fumoto valve as well which pairs nice with the RCI skid plate. I'm pretty sure it would be somewhat messy without the Fumoto valve. Between the Fumoto valve and the nipple on the filter with a short piece of hose, I can easily change the oil without getting a drop on the garage floor. The trick is to make sure the engine is fully warmed up, like plan on driving it for a while before changing the oil as the Fumoto valve seems to restrict oil flow slightly. Also, the oil filter seems to drain better hot. I start draining the oil and the oil filter then move on to other maintenance such as tire rotations, greasing the u-joints etc., then come back to the engine oil once I know it is completely drained. Another way I look at it is, I would rather mess up the bolts/nuts for the oil filter door (which can be easily changed) vs. messing up the bolts/welded nuts in the frame for the whole skid plate. I also run the RCI skids and Fumoto valve on my 4th gen V6 but the oil filter is on top of the engine (much, much better design) so there's no oil filter door.

 

[aroslv]

Correct. Much easier to drop the door than the whole skid plate.



I also recommend the Fumoto valve and the plastic nipples that clip on the valve with a short piece of hose.



I probably have about 10 or so oil changes on the RCI skids and Fumoto valve and I find it much easier with the RCI skids vs. dropping the OEM skids. I have the fumoto valve as well which pairs nice with the RCI skid plate. I'm pretty sure it would be somewhat messy without the Fumoto valve. Between the Fumoto valve and the nipple on the filter with a short piece of hose, I can easily change the oil without getting a drop on the garage floor. The trick is to make sure the engine is fully warmed up, like plan on driving it for a while before changing the oil as the Fumoto valve seems to restrict oil flow slightly. Also, the oil filter seems to drain better hot. I start draining the oil and the oil filter then move on to other maintenance such as tire rotations, greasing the u-joints etc., then come back to the engine oil once I know it is completely drained. Another way I look at it is, I would rather mess up the bolts/nuts for the oil filter door (which can be easily changed) vs. messing up the bolts/welded nuts in the frame for the whole skid plate. I also run the RCI skids and Fumoto valve on my 4th gen V6 but the oil filter is on top of the engine (much, much better design) so there's no oil filter door.

Where do I get these nipples you speak of?