Hatteras-surfer
New member
I have Same year just about same mileage as yours always used Valvoline non synthetic never had any issues engine runs like new.
After 150 thousand miles I upped grade to 10-30
Whats the best oil to run????
- Thread starter MY1STRUNNER
- Start date
After 150 thousand miles I upped grade to 10-30
quicksilvr
New member
You actually just downgraded. You're still using 30 weight oil, but now at startup your oil is 10 times thicker than it should be. 5w-30 is still too thick at startup, but it's closer to where it needs to be.
10w-30 really should be obsolete in my opinion, for use in regular passenger cars and trucks. 5w-30 or 0w-30 are the way to go.
Read this: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles
Hatteras-surfer
New member
huh interesting read thanks.
I was a little crossed on weight so contacted dealers - Charles Barker Toyota & Checkered flag Toyota in Virginia beach they Both recommended 10/30 grade.
Ive been running it for roughly 30 thousand miles. Should I go back to 5-30?
Last edited:
quicksilvr
New member
I would. Even in the warmest climates, 5w-30 is a better oil than 10w-30. In my opinion....which I'd like to think is based on facts. lol.
LittleCaesar
New member
The 10w is fine, and since your are living in Eastern NC I guess, you won't see much below freezing weather. If you are set to using a synthetic in your 4runner, try Mobil 1 10w-30 HM. Great oil. $26 at Wallyworld. The big thing to remember is to keep the oil clean.
Hatteras-surfer
New member
Cool.I would. Even in the warmest climates, 5w-30 is a better oil than 10w-30. In my opinion....which I'd like to think is based on facts. lol.
My next oil change falls around Decembers no better time to decrease start weight 5W-30 it will be.
Hatteras-surfer
New member
I'm thinking that's why Toy dealers in my area are recommending 10w due to lack of winter freeze / higher temps up to 109 in summer.
We do get some freeze but not often....most of the time during nor'easters.
Oil
I agree with quickslvr as long as it is clean and changed regularly its all good. But it all comes down to personal preference, budget, and conditions. The winters in Wy. regularly Get below freezing so now that I have a new engine in my 4runner when I get through the break in period I'm going to use mobil 1 full synthetic and a mobil 1 filter and change it @ 6k miles.
I agree with quickslvr as long as it is clean and changed regularly its all good. But it all comes down to personal preference, budget, and conditions. The winters in Wy. regularly Get below freezing so now that I have a new engine in my 4runner when I get through the break in period I'm going to use mobil 1 full synthetic and a mobil 1 filter and change it @ 6k miles.
Nunyabiz
New member
This is one of those subjects that has basically become its own religion.
Myself I go the full blown Atheist route and use nothing but what I feel is the higher quality synthetic oils (Amsoil & Redline) and change it once a year because I rarely if ever drive more than between 6000 to 8000 miles a year and I feel that is the limit more on the OIL FILTER than it is the oil itself.
So to ME since I only change my oil once a year, spending about $65 for an oil change is not bad for a whole year of not having to worry about sludge and having my engine and trans run a bit cooler.
I use only 15,000 mile Amsoil filters which I feel are easily adequate for cleaning my oil well enough for up to 8000 miles.
Synthetic oil has better additives in it than any petroleum oil thus it is able to stay a bit cleaner for a longer period than petroleum.
Has much higher TBN numbers and more importantly especially in engines that are somewhat prone to sludge the molecules in quality synthetic oil are short chain carbon and are all the same size, where as petroleum oil no matter which one are all long chain carbon molecules and are varied in size from tiny to large.
What happens with petroleum that takes MUCH longer to happen with quality synthetics is that almost immediately with petroleum oil those smaller molecules boil off and start causing sludge to form AND when it does that it also changes your viscosity and makes your oil thinner the longer you drive it.
I would never drive a petroleum oil any more than 3000 miles tops.
If you start out with a 10W30 petroleum oil it isn't 10w30 when you drain it.
Also petroleum based oils must use lots of Viscosity additives to make it a 5W30 oil where as Synthetics use zero viscosity additives.
Synthetics do not do that unless you run them ridiculously long like over 20,000 miles.
Best is to use a Type IV based Synthetic with the very best oil Filter you can get your hands on and change the oil about every 7000 miles or one year which ever comes first.
Myself I go the full blown Atheist route and use nothing but what I feel is the higher quality synthetic oils (Amsoil & Redline) and change it once a year because I rarely if ever drive more than between 6000 to 8000 miles a year and I feel that is the limit more on the OIL FILTER than it is the oil itself.
So to ME since I only change my oil once a year, spending about $65 for an oil change is not bad for a whole year of not having to worry about sludge and having my engine and trans run a bit cooler.
I use only 15,000 mile Amsoil filters which I feel are easily adequate for cleaning my oil well enough for up to 8000 miles.
Synthetic oil has better additives in it than any petroleum oil thus it is able to stay a bit cleaner for a longer period than petroleum.
Has much higher TBN numbers and more importantly especially in engines that are somewhat prone to sludge the molecules in quality synthetic oil are short chain carbon and are all the same size, where as petroleum oil no matter which one are all long chain carbon molecules and are varied in size from tiny to large.
What happens with petroleum that takes MUCH longer to happen with quality synthetics is that almost immediately with petroleum oil those smaller molecules boil off and start causing sludge to form AND when it does that it also changes your viscosity and makes your oil thinner the longer you drive it.
I would never drive a petroleum oil any more than 3000 miles tops.
If you start out with a 10W30 petroleum oil it isn't 10w30 when you drain it.
Also petroleum based oils must use lots of Viscosity additives to make it a 5W30 oil where as Synthetics use zero viscosity additives.
Synthetics do not do that unless you run them ridiculously long like over 20,000 miles.
Best is to use a Type IV based Synthetic with the very best oil Filter you can get your hands on and change the oil about every 7000 miles or one year which ever comes first.
4dailyRunner
New member
re : best oil to use
I use AMSOIL 0W 30 ...mostly for the extended time between necessary oil changes.
I use AMSOIL 0W 30 ...mostly for the extended time between necessary oil changes.
Hatteras-surfer
New member
Ok thanks to this thread I will be changing things around lol.
No more (Valvoline 10w-30) & (Toyota Dealer OEM oil filter).
I will now be using (Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30) & (Mobil1 Extended Performance Oil Filter)
No more (Valvoline 10w-30) & (Toyota Dealer OEM oil filter).
I will now be using (Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30) & (Mobil1 Extended Performance Oil Filter)
Nelsonmd
New member
Not quite, the best time to change back is right now, before it gets cold, and before you put more wear on it.
No they recommend 10w-30 because it is cheap and they have it in bulk. It is more profit for them. Go by what the engineer that designed the engine tells you 5w-30. Don't go thicker. I have read a number of articles touting 0w-30, but I guess I am very skeptical of ignoring the spec on something like that. I'll need to find more than internet sources to convince me unequivocally.
I put 6k on cheap dino juice when I moved from CO to the NE (2k in 2 days all highway). The engine is still nice and shiny inside, and it runs like a peach. I wouldn't make a habit of it, and I wouldn't put 6k city miles on it. That aside, like i said before, religious adherence to the change intervals is the best single thing you can do for your engine, so really don't make a habit of going over the limit.
And the viscosity can change over time as additives get used up. I would never be so specific as to say use only type IV and the best filter, but it can't hurt to pay that much attention.
For the guys that don't drive them much, this may just be anecdotal advice, but I think synthetic would be better if it sits for months at a time. I may have read something along those lines somewhere, or maybe it's just my gut, but I would feel better about letting synthetic sit for long periods of time than conventional. Anything know anything for certain about that?
And also, throw some seafoam in your gas to stabilize it. You don't want your gas gelling up and slowly clogging stuff.
Hatteras-surfer
New member
Right on I'm taking care of it tomorrow.
Update:
Stopped by Advance Auto picked up the goodies.
69.00 Ouch!
Last edited:
LittleCaesar
New member
How many gallons did you buy? Usually all chain auto stores have a couple of good sales going on at any time.
I run the Mobil 1 filter, but the larger one (M-209). It is quite good.
I run the Mobil 1 filter, but the larger one (M-209). It is quite good.
According to your factory manual and the information right on the oil fill cap under the hood you should...
I use Castrol Syntec 5/30
Hatteras-surfer
New member
6 quarts 9.00 a pop
(M102) 13.00
Hatteras-surfer
New member
I got lazy had Toy dealership doing oil changes for a few years.
When I spoke to them they told me Valv 10w-30 was being used.
2nd dealership was going to use the same so that's what I went with no harm done in my weather conditions.
Last edited:
Oil/filter change is an interesting subject (can be religion like), but generally is overrated. As long as you follow a sensible interval (very subjective to begin with), you'll be fine, especially for anyone who frequents these boards.
I got my 98 with over 150k miles on it and it was neglected in the oil change department (among other things, on a single owner vehicle according to carfax). I could see the sludge and gunk in the oil filler area. I put it on a steady diet of kinda frankenmix with 3 quarts of diesel oil (Delo/Rotella/Delvac 15w40 or 10w30) and 3 quarts of other dino oil, and changed it around 7500miles, and filter change with every other oil change (around 15k miles). Now peering into the filler area, it's very clean. I found these engines really like 15w40 diesel oils (rated SM/SL too).
Modern engines are very stout, so does modern oil. The weakest link is the slush box if you drive one, not the engine (unless there's a design/material flaw, which can't be corrected no matter what oil you use).
In a sense whatever oil you're going to use on your next change would be the best for your car.
I got my 98 with over 150k miles on it and it was neglected in the oil change department (among other things, on a single owner vehicle according to carfax). I could see the sludge and gunk in the oil filler area. I put it on a steady diet of kinda frankenmix with 3 quarts of diesel oil (Delo/Rotella/Delvac 15w40 or 10w30) and 3 quarts of other dino oil, and changed it around 7500miles, and filter change with every other oil change (around 15k miles). Now peering into the filler area, it's very clean. I found these engines really like 15w40 diesel oils (rated SM/SL too).
Modern engines are very stout, so does modern oil. The weakest link is the slush box if you drive one, not the engine (unless there's a design/material flaw, which can't be corrected no matter what oil you use).
In a sense whatever oil you're going to use on your next change would be the best for your car.
BrianSD_42
New member
I would use this logic: get an oil change with the standard oil the dealer uses (I don't know what that is)
After driving 5000 normal miles check your oil, how does it look on the dipstick, on a paper towel ect. If it looks really good you are probably safe using the standard stuff.
But if the oil looks dark dark brown or black then you may want to go with something a little more expensive like high mileage or synthetic.
I'm no expert on this but I think this is a good rule of thumb. Some engines are just a lot harder on the oil, rougher engine than others.
After driving 5000 normal miles check your oil, how does it look on the dipstick, on a paper towel ect. If it looks really good you are probably safe using the standard stuff.
But if the oil looks dark dark brown or black then you may want to go with something a little more expensive like high mileage or synthetic.
I'm no expert on this but I think this is a good rule of thumb. Some engines are just a lot harder on the oil, rougher engine than others.
