what's the problem ?

[Emman]

This morning I was in the toyota garage for oil change and the mechanic told me to have put the spacer lift on front was going to break my suspension component.

When my 4runner was standing on the lift can be seen that the UCA is very close to rubbing on the spring, however, when the 4runner is deposited on the ground is a little less close ..

also the cv boot look not good..

What can i do for remedy this ?

I took few pictures:

sorry for the picture quality

thanks a lot for your help !

 

[aha2988]

need to know how much of a spacer lift you've added first.

you have alot of options to eliminate the problem it depends on your plans for the vehicle and weather or not your an offroad enthuseist or not.

theres a sticky thread tittle suspension FAQs on the top of the 4th gen page it should list everything you need to do what you need to do

 

[Emman]

sorry , it's 2.5 spacer lift ( ds )

I really don't do hard offroading but little sometimes ..

 

[aha2988]

you shouldnt have any problems with a 2.5" spacer lift. easiest solution would be to get a set of Light Racing Upper Control Arms LR UCA's there made by a few different companys i got mine from SPC performance. They give you back the castor you lost durring the lift and move the upper steering knuckle ball joint further away from the strut tower assembly (your spring). there stronger than stock A-arms so there going to last there just under $500 and you'll have your factory allignment specs back. Your CV angle at full drop looks pretty bad they make a 3/4"-1" diff drop kit that will take away some of the wear on the CV joints caused by the negative angle the diff drop isnt extremly necessary but i think it does prolong the life of the half shafts CV joints. These would all be driver preferance for a better ride i dont see any reason you shouldnt be able to just drive what you have if your not offroading much your CV's will rarely see that much of a negative angle and your UCA won't ever drop that close to your spring unless both front tires are off the ground. if your sway bar links are getting close to your other suspension componants they make swaybar relocation brackets for that. if your running the factory springs dont remove the sway bar durring daily driving!

 

[Emman]

for resume i need a Light Racing Upper Control Arms LR UCA's and a diff drop kit ? wich diff drop kit ?

thanks !

 

[aha2988]

for resume i need a Light Racing Upper Control Arms LR UCA's and a diff drop kit ? wich diff drop kit ?

thanks !

toytec makes one and soran steel makes one they seem to be the same I believe toytec's requirse less manipulation of the factory skid plate to bolt back in original location.

Light Racing/SPC Adjustable upper control arms - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits

Front Differential Drop Kit - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits

 

[Emman]

ok it's better to change also stock shock and spring with ds spacer for a complete front lift adjustable like ome or other ?


for the rear I have RAS so i think i can just change the shock for a longer one because I trick the sensor for a lift.


I just need two light racing uca ? just for front ?


thanks, it's really appreciated

 

[aha2988]

ok it's better to change also stock shock and spring with ds spacer for a complete front lift adjustable like ome or other ?


for the rear I have RAS so i think i can just change the shock for a longer one because I trick the sensor for a lift.


I just need two light racing uca ? just for front ?


thanks, it's really appreciated

in my opinion a suspension lift is always better than a spacer lift. OME is a great option. There are many other options as well that are just as good if not better some adjustable some not its all in the drivers opinions and style if you dont do much offroading you wont find a need for a suspension lift, if you get into offroading you'll find a great need for it.

What you first posted pics of and showed to be a problem I've told you isnt a concern due to your tires will only be hanging that low on your suspension when both front tires are off the ground. (when jacked up for service).

If however you wish to ease your mind and improve the quality of your ride yes all you need is a pair of front UCA's LR's are just one option there are many other UCA's available.

the only reason you would need longer shocks in the rear is if you've added a spacer lift/ or longer coil springs in the rear. I'm assuming you've spaced the front up and are using the RAS to get the rear level with the front. If RAS is the only lift you have in the rear, longer shocks arn't needed.

If you add a suspension lift to the front (ex. OME strut shocks/ springs) you'll be changing the spring rate of the front of the vehicle and not the back. it is recomended to balance the spring rate front to rear (if you lift the front with new shocks and springs you need to lift the back with shocks and springs) there are many options to do this aswell some allow you to keep RAS some eliminate RAS. in most cases more serious offroaders eliminate RAS as its only benefit is to offset tounge weight of trailor towing.

all suspension faqs opinions options are listed in the link below with reviews and people that have used almost every setup read through the whole thread i promise it will answer every question you have and show you sources for products

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/102272-4th-gen-suspension-options-faq.html

 

[Emman]

the cv boot do i need change all or it's okay ?


thanks

 

[emelianenkov]

Now when I saw you got roughly 3" of lift and suggested the diff drop, it was the general consensus of everyone else that it wasn't necessary because you're under or at 3" (not trying to start a flame war or anything. I respect everyone's opinion equally and if I could express humor via Internet posted messages, I would.) *insert humorous mindset and a smartass grin here*. :lol:

I would get a diff drop and see what that does for you, considering it is a huge fraction of what you would pay for UCA's. That is the route I'm taking when I put my Bilsteins on to lift the front roughly 2.5".

Good luck!
-Alex

 

[aha2988]

Now when I saw you got roughly 3" of lift and suggested the diff drop, it was the general consensus of everyone else that it wasn't necessary because you're under or at 3" (not trying to start a flame war or anything. I respect everyone's opinion equally and if I could express humor via Internet posted messages, I would.) *insert humorous mindset and a smartass grin here*. :lol:

I would get a diff drop and see what that does for you, considering it is a huge fraction of what you would pay for UCA's. That is the route I'm taking when I put my Bilsteins on and lifting the front roughly 2.5".

Good luck!
-Alex

His problem isnt his negative half shaft angle. the OP was concerning the UCA getting to close to his strut tower. the pics were taken when the truck was jacked up (tires off the ground full drop) you wouldnt see those CV angles unless you were baja racing and jumped in the air. I have just over 3.5" of suspension lift and i have zero issues with my half shaft angles zero problems with my CV boots and i offroad regularly. when i first lifted my truck my warn out CV boots from the factory tore immediatly, i rebuilt the CV joints and put on longer Tundra CV boots they've been able to handle the angle's without a diff drop and I know countless others with similar size lifts that run without a diff drop and have no issues. also the OP stated they dont offroad often so the truck see's roads more often than dirt if they've spaced there suspension up 2.5" or higher they've lost all caster in the steering knuckles and are probably experiencing a poor ride quality and having alignment issue's which aftermarket adjustable UCA's are design to fix the OP's issues. a diff drop has ZERO noticable ride effects its only purpose is excessive wear prevention on your half shaft CV joints. I've got 10,000+ miles on my CV joints without a diff drop with a maxed out suspension lift and the boots look like they just came off the shelf (minus the dirt from offroading)

 

[aha2988]

the cv boot do i need change all or it's okay ?


thanks

you've told me nothing about the condition of your vehicle if the half shafts are new your boots are fine if there old and warn then its appart of regular maintnance to replace/rebuild/service the half shafts CV joints

 

[Emman]

as you can see in the third picture the cv boot is really too much at the right of the driveshaft on the right wheel ( and too much at the left on the left wheel ) , i don't think it's normal ...

 

[aha2988]

if its not broken dont fix it thats the best advice i can offer. if you want to improve it theres a blue million aftermarket parts the offer up performance advantages for you good luck buddy

 

[settytb]

The pictures are extremely hard to see. I have the DS 2.5 and My cv's are actually about perfectly level. When everything is on the ground. I have 255's so i don't have any UCA issues or closeness to rubbing. But from the pics I couldn't really see much maybe when you get home grab a camera and try again?

 

[emelianenkov]

My mistake. I'm not a suspension guru. I know I'm putting a diff drop in so that I can *potentially* decrease the possibility of breaking something I don't wanna fix right now.