what's this noise???

[bis_1315m]

If you have no experience setting up gears, bearings, etc. in a differential, I would strongly recommend having an experienced professional do it.

A very mechanically savvy do-it-yourselfer, with the proper specialized tools, and a GOOD (not Chilton's or Haynes) service manual, could probably get it right, after numerous attempts to set all the parameters where they need to be, for a long, trouble free service life.

If this 4Runner is a daily driver, and especially if you don't have the tools and background to do the job at this point in time, it would most likely be an exercise in frustration.


It would be much easier to buy a complete 3rd member, with gears and bearings already set up, and install that in the axle, then going in with no differential rebuilding experience.

I was under the impression that when changing the diff bearings I just needed to pull the yolk cover off unbolt diff and bearings press new bearings on reinstall and makesure I get the pre load right am I missing something.


I'm new here so noob question is 3rd member considered the whole rear end or just the differential.

thanks

 

[bis_1315m]

If 3rd member does only mean diff assembly then I dont see what the difference of me would be from replacing bearings to swapping in a different diff they both have to come out. Is removing the diff going to throw everything off or is that only if I take the actual gears apart. Sorry just a lil confused this is my first diff job.

thanks

 

[JWaldz]

Yes the 3rd member means just the diff. If you're pulling the entire 3rd there's no harm in replacing it with another one as long as it's the same gear ratio. Otherwise you run the risk of failure when in 4wd. It doesn't have to be the same gear ratio for testing purposes as long as you know not to put it in 4wd. If you pulled it to replace the bearings you will obviously need to reinstall gears, set backlash, etc etc which is not a job for the occasional home garage mechanic, no offense. It's just a very precise and detailed job that should be left to those with the experience to do it.

 

[bis_1315m]

Yes the 3rd member means just the diff. If you're pulling the entire 3rd there's no harm in replacing it with another one as long as it's the same gear ratio. Otherwise you run the risk of failure when in 4wd. It doesn't have to be the same gear ratio for testing purposes as long as you know not to put it in 4wd. If you pulled it to replace the bearings you will obviously need to reinstall gears, set backlash, etc etc which is not a job for the occasional home garage mechanic, no offense. It's just a very precise and detailed job that should be left to those with the experience to do it.

great this is the puzzle piece I was looking for, so if I understand correctly when replacing the bearings I would also need to re-calibrate all the gear stuff. however if I find a diff with good bearings on it it would be easier and cheaper to go this route due to not needing the re-calibration, correct?

how much do used diffs typically go for if you happen to know.


Also from what I have read since I have a 2wd auto my diff is compatible with 96-02 44runner auto, does it matter if it's 4wd or does it have to be from a 2wd. 97-05 Tacomas are compatible too is this correct.

thanks

 

[bis_1315m]

Hey guys I just pulled the diff I did not see any broken teeth so that's good however I did find some rust spots on some of them so water must have been in there at one point in time. I have not removed the bearing caps to inspect the bearings yet however they do seem to be covered in some muddy gunk a lil bit.

Here are some pics of it and also my wheel bearing area wanted to see yall felt that they look ok or if they are showing any signs of failing.

I really hope this is my problem tired of throwing money at it hahaha. I found a few differentials at the junk yard might go check those out.

thanks

 

[bis_1315m]

another pic

 

[bis_1315m]

I noticed these swollen bubbles on the passenger side wheel bearing is the a bad thing, the drivers side looks smooth like it should.

 

[nevada]

I was under the impression that when changing the diff bearings I just needed to pull the yolk cover off unbolt diff and bearings press new bearings on reinstall and makesure I get the pre load right am I missing something.


I'm new here so noob question is 3rd member considered the whole rear end or just the differential.

thanks

to change the bearings, the carrier would have to come out.
which means the entire 3rd would be taken apart.



dont pull the bearing caps, unless you plan to tear it down.


i think the best idea would be to get a complete other 3rd and swap it in.
unfortunately, i think it will have to come from another 2wd, so it may be harder to find.
i think typically the 2wd's ran a much higher gear ratio than the 4wd's did. altho, im not that familiar with your particular year.

 

[bis_1315m]

Ok so removing the bearing caps would be a bad idea unless planning to rebuild. Is there anything I should be looking for to try check if it is bad or not. I figured it may be a little harder to find but from what I've read I can also use a Tacoma diff as well.

I tried to diagnose the wheel bearings there is not really any play in them but the swollen one just doesn't look right, not sure if this is normal or not though.

thanks

 

[bis_1315m]

so I found a diff at a junk yard for 150 seems like a good deal it's still in the case so should be able to tell if it's good or not hopefully.

 

[bis_1315m]

any opinions on how the wheel bearings look.

thanks

 

[bis_1315m]

friday bumb

 

[bis_1315m]

weekend bumb

 

[JWaldz]

looking how nasty those axle shafts and assemblies are I would probably suggest replacing them all anyways. Whether that's the cause of the noise or not, I don't know. A bad bearing can definitely cause some howling/grinding/whistling and wheel vibrations though so it's not out of the list of culprits. The rust on the gears does concern me a little. It's clear you've been driving with some watery gear oil. If you can get a spare diff to throw in and test out great. If the sound goes away it's a pinion or carrier bearing. If it remains to make the same noise then I would look at replacing all your rear axle seals and bearings. Then cleaning up everything. Looks like it could use it about 10 cans of brake cleaner blasted away on it!

 

[bis_1315m]

I agree they definitely look nasty, I talked to a shop and they said if I can put it back in and bring the truck to them they well diagnose it for free for me.

So I cleaned the diff up and come to find out those orange spots are not rust but paint or some stain that wiped right off and I did clean up the axle areas before re-installing. I got everything back in New fluid again and it still has the problem so I'm taking it in today to get it diagnosed I'll let y'all know what they find thanks.

 

[02SE]

I had a post that detailed what I could see from the pics, but it was deleted in the server update.

Bottom line I can see what appears to be pitting on the ring gear teeth, and I assume the pinion probably looks the same. That could definitely cause noise.

The axle seals appear to have been leaking.

The wheel bearing seals look bad, and likely have allowed the gear oil/water mix not contained by the axle seals, to infiltrate the wheel bearings.

I'd replace the 3rd member, axle seals, and wheel bearings. I would also make sure the diff breather isn't plugged.

 

[bis_1315m]

Well as soon as I find a good deal on a diff I will start with that and work my way through the other things.

You think $350 is a good deal on a good used diff with 127k on it