Whats wrong with my Runner?

the kid said:
really!? well man i should of had you throw those in with the skid plate when i ordered that to save on shipping lol,

oh well, i got a set sitting in my garage, along with some 8 wraps too, in case i dont like the 9 wraps, but i think im gonna have too much weight in the back with my spare dual batteries, and a winch under there where the spare used to be, not to mention eventually a CBI rear... so i think the 9 wraps will sit about level with the TT 3"+/- front(thats all im waiting on right now for the lift, but that can wait).


now back to broken or dieing front diffs.
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I put my second battery where the factory put my spare too.
 
sportscarfan said:
With the amount of tread left on the front's vs. rears, the circumference is different enough that something has to give...
Is it an automatic? Is there a center diff in an auto? (I only speak 5-speed)
With no center diff it's kind of like having 4:10's in the rear and 4:30's up front.
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Uh, no. A 5% difference is completely acceptable and will not hurt anything. EVER.

Plenty of guys run 5.29s in the rear and 5.38s in their D44 after SAS conversions with no issues.

The issue at hand is that Shon wheels this rig quite a bit. My guess is that its just time for a new diff. More than likely there is chipped teeth on a ring gear or pinion, or the crush sleeve is wasted inside the 3rd. Call it an upgrade opportunity.
 
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it could be a chipped ring and pinion, But i would guess its the spider gears. Many dont realize that the 2 spider gears see every mile the truck does. The drivers side cv goes directly into the carrier, and you have the spider gears turning when ever the drivers front tire spins. And on top of they they are small.

drain the driff, pull it and split the clamshell and take all this guessing out of it
 
J-money$$$ said:
it could be a chipped ring and pinion, But i would guess its the spider gears. Many dont realize that the 2 spider gears see every mile the truck does. The drivers side cv goes directly into the carrier, and you have the spider gears turning when ever the drivers front tire spins. And on top of they they are small.

drain the driff, pull it and split the clamshell and take all this guessing out of it
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Thanks for the advice everyone! Scotty, thanks for the info, I was wondering if the tire size would affect things over time.

I was going to throw it up on jackstands in the garage today but there was a foot plus of snow this morning and I ended up shoveling and then grocery shopping... maybe tomorrow we can solve this mystery.
 
Duhockey said:
Thanks for the advice everyone! Scotty, thanks for the info, I was wondering if the tire size would affect things over time.

I was going to throw it up on jackstands in the garage today but there was a foot plus of snow this morning and I ended up shoveling and then grocery shopping... maybe tomorrow we can solve this mystery.
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Sounds like its time for a gathering.

It makes ZERO impact when 2wd. There always is some binding when in 4wd even if all of the tires are the exact same size due to slight variations in the road/trail and turning.

I hate to say but we all are living on borrowed time and wheeling speeds up the aging process. If you wheel hard, and you do, things are eventually going to wear out. It's part of the cost of admission.
 
Well, its most definitely not the cvs... they are fine, spin fine, no noise, no binding etc.

I got the bud front skid off and took off the sway bar, which I remember now is a royal pain no matter what air tools you have...

So I went to drain the diff and uh, well, I seem to have misplaced my large allen set...

anyone know what size allen the front diff plug is?

if theres nothing in the fluid whats my next step? crack open the diff? pull the cv axle??? seems like you would need to pull the cv to crack the diff anyways...
 
and we have the answer...

So I put the 4runner up on jackstands and spun the axles, everything sounded fine, we put it in 4wheel, the drivetrain rattled bad. I've got some video of it... we replaced the cv to see if that would help, but it didnt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfoYJyPqMZA&feature=g-upl
then while playing around with everything we found out that when you turn the driveshaft manually, the teeth only grab on maybe 1/8 of the turn... so most of the teeth on the ring gear are prob gone.

My friend Mark helped me pull the diff, it was surprisingly easy there are only 3 bolts one is a 12 hex key and two are 19mm, we jacked the transmission up a bit and that helped give us a bit more room to squeeze the diff out.

we had to unplug the ADD of course... there are vacuum lines that run up near the battery, the blue one goes on the inside... the outside one was unmarked.

So I called and left anthony the gear guy a vmail... plan is a full rebuild with a trutrac lsd...
 
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Duhockey said:
Ok, just like I thought, I have an A03A which is a 2 pinion, open diff, 4.10.

I called Toyota and they said they can get all the info from your Vin, so if anybody wants to do it that way, its a bit easier than jacking up your tire etc.

Check out my thread on Gears if you have any input on where to buy and or what brand you have experience with...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/103788-gears-lockers-input.html#post928578
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The VIN search doesn't sound like it is 100% correct on gear ratio.
Spin the wheel to be sure.
 
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