What's your favorite oil?

I did this on my wife's X-terra. I always ran Valvoline NexGen 5w-30 w/Mann filters at 5K miles. The samples always came back looking good and Blackstone would suggest running it to 7500 if I wanted. I switched to Royal Purple same weight and did the first change at 5k and it looked the same as the conventional. I ran it to 10k and Blackstone said I could go further if I wanted, but I never did. I just recently switched to Mobile 1 (it was on sale at Wally World) and the samples look identical at 10k, except for the additives. I recently changed the oil in my 4r to mobile one (same sale) I'm gonna run it to 10k and then go with whatever name brand syn is on sale at the time.
I posted this nearly a year ago. After less than 1,000 miles on the mobile one, I developed a pretty big oil leak at the rear main seal. I switched back to conventional oil (penzoil 5w30) and the leak has since dried up. I went 5k miles and sent in a sample when I changed it. The sample came back perfect and suggested I could run to 7,500. I bought the truck with 240,000 miles on it and it had a Jiffy Lube filter on it, my guess is that it had never run synthetic oil till I put it in.
 
I use Rotella on all of my newer vehicles all of my older vehicles (flat tappet lifters) get Brad Penn oil. As far as filters go I would never use fram. I use Mann or wix on everything and motorcraft on my fords.
 
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Castrol full synthetic


2003 SR5 4runner
3inch Rough Country lift
285/75/17 Dunlop Fierce Attitude
FJ Wheels
Offroad Adventures Roof Rack
 
Synthetics front-to-back; Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30 and Wix 51348, Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 in the diffs and Toyota ATF WS in the tranny.

Wouldn't hesitate to run any reputable mfgr's synthetic oil though (Mobil-1, Royal Purple, etc.) and conventional wisdom (and hard data) tells me Toyota OEM filters would be an ideal choice. I just choose to stay consistent for the life of the vehicle.

This thread reminds me...I'm approaching 85K on my 08', I want/need to get an analysis completed...find out where I stand.
 
Meh. I'm in the Mobil 1 crowd.

Not necessarily because I think it's really better than anything else out there...

I just think it's a good oil and its readily available almost everywhere. I can't say the same for some of the other products mentioned.

I'm not sure it really matters anyway. Use a good filter and change it and the oil on schedule and I'd say the engine will outlive the rest of the truck.
 
I use Rotella on all of my newer vehicles all of my older vehicles (flat tappet lifters) get Brad Penn oil. As far as filters go I would never use fram. I use Mann or wix on everything and motorcraft on my fords.

Rotella was highly recommended by the German car owners when I was researching alternatives to OEM BMW oil. I just can't bring myself to buy a Shell product. Maybe that's my loss.
 
Interesting...I think of Rotella as heavy truck oil.

Castrol guy here, I guess John Force just finally got to me after all those years. I am the son of a Penzoil man and admire the Amsoil products, which I do use here and there.

I will push for the Blackstone analysis....I think it adds some science to the art of regular maintenance.
 
Been running Rotella 10-30 or 5-40 or even a blend of the two since 200K. My valve train looks nice and shiny with 375,000 miles plus. Not a recommendation, just letting yall know what I run. My 1GR is not a roller so I perfer mucho zddp!!!
 
Been using Amsoil front to rear since 1990. Easy to obtain from independent retailers, supports local small business. They've been in synthetics since 1965 so I trust their long change intervals. That's my reasoning.
 
I've been using M1 HM 5w30/YZZD3 in my wife's 4th gen--but I've been thinking of moving to a 0w30 or 0w40 for hers and my 3rd gen.
 
Once I decided to keep the runner I started changing my own oil. I've been running Penzoil High Mileage and High Mileage Fram filters changing when the light came on. Both are cheap. Just recently had multiple coupons for 5 Gal. Mobile 1 synthetic so I bought enough for three changes and bought three OEM filters. I had zero problems with Penzoil and Fram but had decided I wanted to go synthetic and went with Mobile 1 basically because after coupon it made it too hard to pass up.
 
Once I decided to keep the runner I started changing my own oil. I've been running Penzoil High Mileage and High Mileage Fram filters changing when the light came on. Both are cheap. Just recently had multiple coupons for 5 Gal. Mobile 1 synthetic so I bought enough for three changes and bought three OEM filters. I had zero problems with Penzoil and Fram but had decided I wanted to go synthetic and went with Mobile 1 basically because after coupon it made it too hard to pass up.

Folks, every forum I participate in for my vehicles (Harley Road King, 2003 Corvette) have big debates about oil & filters. I have never seen real proof of using anything but what the manufacturer suggests. Here is a pic of my iridium plugs at their 100K change (at 130K total miles).

4rplugssmall.jpg


I buy my dino Mobil 5W30 for about $15/5qt at Walmart, I buy OEM Toyota filters on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1X9AES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as well as OEM O-rings on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OW6MD6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

With the 4R, oil change is about $22 and 20-25 minutes every 5000-5500 miles.

My 2008 4R now has about 135K miles, never burns any oil, runs like a top. No designer oils (AMSOIL etc) no designer filters,......

Just my 2 cents.

Don't complicate your life!
 

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