Wheel bearing assembly replacement help

N

nysimonsez

New member
Hi -

I bought the wheel bearing and hub assembly and am trying to do the install on my 4wd 4runner.

I am at the point where i backed off the 4 bolts from the hub and took off the axle nut. I tapped the hub to get it started and now there is a gap between the hub and control arm. But I cannot take out the hub, it won't budge from the spindle. I can move the hub very slightly and I can see it's also slightly moving the half shaft behind as well. What am i doing wrong and how to rectify? Any suggestions would be great.

thanks
 
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If you have the nut off already you should be able to loosen the bolts and shimmy/wiggle it off. May not come right away but it will. Make sure the bolts are all the way out and use a flat tip screwdriver between hub/spindle to help release it.
 
thanks a lot guys. in the pictures i got to the one where i put the screwdriver between the hub and arm. all 4 screws are loose and off the contol arm. i got the hub to come out of the arm similar to the picture, where i can stick a screwdiver behind the spindle. i tried to pry it around the whole hub and it doesnt budge. i put the axle nut back on to measure how much it came off the spindle, and it didnt move at all. i can put the nut back and still line up to the cotter pin hole. I can only wiggle it every little, and the shaft behind moves with it. i used a hammer to hit the hub (same as the instruction picture) and no difference.
how hard can i hit the hub with the hammer? really whack at it? also, can i use a pry bar instead of the screwdriver for more leverage? would really prying damage the spindle or shaft? i even tried pb blaster around the axle nut and didnt help. I am at a loss otherwise . tried pulling for an hour and no progress really frustrating.
 
Just a heads up. When I did mine I had the same issue on the drivers side and got to the point where I wondered if it might be stuck but it wasn't. It was just harder to remove for some reason. After I finally got it to come off everything looked fine and new one went on no problem. Just remember to go back and forth when you apply force with your screw driver..


I dont know if you can see, but I used a good sized flat head screw driver..
20140227_183813.jpg~original


On this pic you can see how I worked all around the old hub to remove it eventhough the new one is already on..
20140227_183759.jpg~original


hope that helps..:typing:
 
good info. I thought I was the only one who has problem getting the hub off. I used a similar size screwdriver and went around the hub several times, and using force to pry to the point where the screwdriver was bending to close to snapping.
I am going to get a bigger hammer to bang on the hub and use a pry bar instead of a screwdriver to pry it out. Probably will use 2 pry bars at opposite ends of the hub and go around the hub. I was afraid to hammer and pray too hard that I may damage the spindle or the shaft behind. Now I'm going to go full force. Curious, 28, how long or how many times did you have to go around the hub for it to come off?

thanks again guys. send me another other helpful tips if you can think of any.
 
zopperman said:
get an actual chisel
Click to expand...

BINGO!!!:lever:

I had forgotten but that's axactly what I used to get it to finally break loose after using the screw driver.. If you look at that first pic you can see the hammer and the chissel I used is right under that screw driver..

remember after torquing down your axle nut to put back your castle nut and pin..
 
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I actually have and use the same chisel as yours in the pic. I used it and got it to create a gap between the hub and spindle. However, when I put the axle nut back on to see how much the hub came out, it was in the same original position leading me to think the gap came from someplace else.

Anyway, the chisel didn't do much else after I created the gap and all 4 axle nuts came loose. That's why I am going to use a pry bar instead to see if I can move the hub out of the spindle. Going to try again this weekend.
 
nysimonsez said:
I actually have and use the same chisel as yours in the pic. I used it and got it to create a gap between the hub and spindle. However, when I put the axle nut back on to see how much the hub came out, it was in the same original position leading me to think the gap came from someplace else.

Anyway, the chisel didn't do much else after I created the gap and all 4 axle nuts came loose. That's why I am going to use a pry bar instead to see if I can move the hub out of the spindle. Going to try again this weekend.
Click to expand...
the axle is coming out with the bearing. it happens sometimes. you may have to get a punch, and knock the axle in, and out the back of the bearing.

also, you stated a few times they were loose, make sure the 4 mounting bolts/nuts are completely removed.
 
Thanks Nevada.

Yes, the 4 mounting nuts are completely removed. If the axle is coming out with the hub, should I not pry it further? I was going to use a pry bar instead of screwdriver to try to pry it out, but now fears that it will pull the axle out as well with the hub. If you don't think that will happen, then I'll try to pry it out. What about if I hammer the hub harder with a bigger hammer? Would that loosen the hub from the axle and then I can pry it out?

What is an axle punch? is it a slide hammer, or something I can just get from autozone?

thanks
 
nysimonsez said:
Thanks Nevada.

Yes, the 4 mounting nuts are completely removed. If the axle is coming out with the hub, should I not pry it further? I was going to use a pry bar instead of screwdriver to try to pry it out, but now fears that it will pull the axle out as well with the hub. If you don't think that will happen, then I'll try to pry it out. What about if I hammer the hub harder with a bigger hammer? Would that loosen the hub from the axle and then I can pry it out?

What is an axle punch? is it a slide hammer, or something I can just get from autozone?

thanks
Click to expand...

don't pry it further.
you need to get something to knock the axle IN, a brass drift, or brass hammer will work. just something that wont damage the end of the axle, or the threads.

its usually best if the bearing/hub is seated back in the knuckle. it doesn't have to be bolted in.
I prefer an air hammer. make that job SO MUCH EASIER.

Air Hammer | Air Hammer Kits | Ingersoll Rand


115_AIR_HAMMER_HR_PRODUCT_l.jpg
 
I would be careful with using anything to pry. You need a jaw puller so that it comes out straight otherwise it will bind. Undoubtedly you are dealing with a rust weld situation. Those in the south and west that don't deal with the road salts that have pulled their hub probably have had it a lot easier that theirs would come right off. Those in the northeast tend to find the going a little harder.
 
thanks. I will get a 3 jaw puller and try to pull the hub out. I won't try and pry it out further then. Hopefully I can do it this weekend.

Here's what's strange. It was very noisy at highway speed until I turn right, and the noise was very much gone. That's why I suspected it was the driver's side wheel bearing. Well, after a morning of pulling, prying, and PB blaster on the hub, that noise is almost completely gone even when I go straight or turn left. I'm going to replace the bearing anyway since I already have part, but just weird that the noise is gone. Any clue why?
 
I just bought and used the 3 jaw puller on my hub/bearing today, worked great. AutoZone had a decent unit for $39.
 
Success! Got the 3 jaw puller as took no time to pull it out. The whole process took me about an hour. Most of the bolts came out easy because I had taken them out a week ago. With the new hub everything is quiet again. I think the 3 jaw puller is almost a must have for hub replacement. Much easier than trying to pry it or hammer it out.

Thanks to all of you for the great advice. Saved myself a bunch of $$$ doing it myself.
 
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