Wheel offset needed to clear uca with trd's and 285s

R

redrunner85

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Not sure if this has been answered, I've looked at almost every thread I can find on lifts and I keep seeing people say that you need spacers to clear 285s or 33s with stock rims. No one, that I've seen, has said what amount of negative offset is needed in order to clear the UCA without getting spacers. I have 99 Tacoma steelies that I'm putting my 285s on, I don't know their offset I want to say around neg 3, but I also have 99 stock t4r rims on there now with 265's. I can always buy the spacers, but if I don't need to I'd rather not. If this is a repetitive thread I apologize I've read through so many builds, but I haven't seen this info. Thanks

:dizzy::noidea::noidea::nono:
 
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redrunner85 said:
Not sure if this has been answered, I've looked at almost every thread I can find on lifts and I keep seeing people say that you need spacers to clear 285s or 33s with stock rims. No one, that I've seen, has said what amount of negative offset is needed in order to clear the UCA without getting spacers. I have 99 Tacoma steelies that I'm putting my 285s on, I don't know their offset I want to say around neg 3, but I also have 99 stock t4r rims on there now with 265's. I can always buy the spacers, but if I don't need to I'd rather not. If this is a repetitive thread I apologize I've read through so many builds, but I haven't seen this info. Thanks

:dizzy::noidea::noidea::nono:
Click to expand...


Not sure but maybe this would help. Would need to know all the dimensions but since your going wider you definitely need to move the wheel offset more negative.

https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/
 
It depends on the wheel backspacing. There is also a common misunderstanding that wheel spacers will help you clear 285s in every situation.

Wheel spacers move the wheels OUT but they also change the physical space the tire is occupying when turned at X radius. Other factors that can cause rubbing of the UCA: alignment, removing the front sway bar allows the suspension a lot more movement around corners, an NO that is not always a good thing.

Here are my wheel tire setups in chronological order:


A:
* Aftermarket wheels 16" (most typically sit OUT about 1" more than factory)
* 265x75x16 tires
* No wheel spacers
* No body lift
* UCA: factory
* Issues: none


B:
* Toyota 5-Star OEM 4Runner 16" wheels
* 265x75x16 tires
* 1.25" Wheel spacers
* No body lift
* UCA: factory
* Issues: none


C:
* Toyota 5-Star OEM 4Runner 16" wheels
* 285x75x16 tires
* 1.25" Wheel spacers
* No body lift
* Issues: significant rubbing on pinch welds


D: (present)
* Toyota 5-Star OEM 4Runner 16" wheels
* 285x75x16 tires
* 0.75" Wheel spacers
* 1" Body Lift
* UCA: aftermarket
* Issues: None
 
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BrianSD_42 said:
It depends on the wheel backspacing. There is also a common misunderstanding that wheel spacers will help you clear 285s in every situation.

Wheel spacers move the wheels OUT but they also change the physical space the tire is occupying when turned at X radius. Other factors that can cause rubbing of the UCA: alignment, removing the front sway bar allows the suspension a lot more movement around corners, an NO that is not always a good thing.

Here are my wheel tire setups in chronological order:


A:
* Aftermarket wheels 16" (most typically sit OUT about 1" more than factory)
* 265x75x16 tires
* No wheel spacers
* No body lift
* UCA: factory
* Issues: none


B:
* Toyota 5-Star OEM 4Runner 16" wheels
* 265x75x16 tires
* 1.25" Wheel spacers
* No body lift
* UCA: factory
* Issues: none


C:
* Toyota 5-Star OEM 4Runner 16" wheels
* 285x75x16 tires
* 1.25" Wheel spacers
* No body lift
* Issues: significant rubbing on pinch welds


D: (present)
* Toyota 5-Star OEM 4Runner 16" wheels
* 285x75x16 tires
* 0.75" Wheel spacers
* 1" Body Lift
* UCA: aftermarket
* Issues: None
Click to expand...

Thank you for the list that definitely helps. Currently I am stock all around, I have the 5star 16" T4R rims with 265/75r/16's. I am doing the OEM lift with TRD Tundra shocks, also will 2007 shocks work?, and 8 coil rear with the FJ80 struts. With the tundra fronts and a top spacer is the BL still necessary? I'm about to do a frame swap and throw my lift in at the same time. If a BL is necessary still I'd like to do that at the same time.

:llama:
 
I am running tundra bilstein 5100s all around with tundra coils and LC 8 wraps with a 285/70/17 cooper STT pro. I bought the SCS F5 wheels in a 17x8.5 with a 4.3 backspace which is a -10mm offset. Tires clear the UCA and everything else but its close. I can fit chains on it and they clear rolling around my driveway but I would put spacers on for any actual chain use.

I stressed about spacers and backspacing a lot when I was looking for wheels. If I remember the stock wheels are a 16x7 with a 4.6 space I think
 
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Body lift is definitely not necessary with 265s. In fact installing the BL did not solve my rubbing on the pinch welds. What solved it was removing the 1.25" spacers.
 
Body lift is definitely not necessary with 265s. In fact installing the BL did not solve my rubbing on the pinch welds. What solved it was removing the 1.25" spacers.
Click to expand...
Oh that makes sense.. yeah I'll be going up to 285's with factory taco steelies from 2010. I think those usually have like a -3 offset?? But I can't find any info on that anywhere. I'm trying to stay away from spacers if necessary, but I was thinking about a 1" BL when I do my frame swap since I'll have it up in the air anyway
 
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I am running tundra bilstein 5100s all around with tundra coils and LC 8 wraps with a 285/70/17 cooper STT pro. I bought the SCS F5 wheels in a 17x8.5 with a 4.3 backspace which is a -10mm offset. Tires clear the UCA and everything else but its close. I can fit chains on it and they clear rolling around my driveway but I would put spacers on for any actual chain use.

I stressed about spacers and backspacing a lot when I was looking for wheels. If I remember the stock wheels are a 16x7 with a 4.6 space I think
Like
Click to expand...
Oh okay so I'll need something with a bit more offset than what I think I have... well maybe a BL will help. I'll be doing the same lift you have but with LC rear struts and the tundra stock shock with top spacers unless I can find some cheap 5100's for the front
 
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