Wheel spacer advice needed

I'm getting ready to order some wheel adapters myself. To those running 1.25", are you having to grind down your studs at all?

Those are spacers not adapters. Adapters change your lug pattern to run different size wheels. Ex. putting Ford wheels on a Toyota.
 
As a industrial engineer, let me tell you that who makes them affects the quality a lot.
Basically with the more expensive ones, you are paying for development and quality control, with cheap - self explanatory. Its kinda like AMD vs Intel.

Really? All of my PC builds over the years have had better reliability with AMD, for less money.
 
Those are spacers not adapters. Adapters change your lug pattern to run different size wheels. Ex. putting Ford wheels on a Toyota.

Ah ok I guess I got confused. I've seen people on here refer to the spacers that have the studs on them call those adapters, and if they don't have the studs, then they are simply spacers. Either way looking at getting the spidertrax ones linked above :thumb:
 
Ah ok I guess I got confused. I've seen people on here refer to the spacers that have the studs on them call those adapters, and if they don't have the studs, then they are simply spacers. Either way looking at getting the spidertrax ones linked above :thumb:

Technically, it is an adapter. It's a 6x5.5 to 6x5.5 adapter that is X inches thick. A spacer truly is just a shim and should not be used on hub centric vehicles. Or really lug centric either. Don't use shims.
 
That would chip off in no time & look like crap.
To paint the Spidertrax anodized aluminum, you'd have to sand, primer & then paint, and rattle cans still chip easily. Or you can just buy Black spacers for less than the Trax.

If you modify & work on your truck a lot or break something on the trail, I wouldn't use Locktite on the spacers. I never have.

i can't see my spacers with the wheel on so i never had a problem..& notice that I never said that there would not be prep work involved, that falls in the realm of common sense
 
That would chip off in no time & look like crap.
To paint the Spidertrax anodized aluminum, you'd have to sand, primer & then paint, and rattle cans still chip easily. Or you can just buy Black spacers for less than the Trax.

If you modify & work on your truck a lot or break something on the trail, I wouldn't use Locktite on the spacers. I never have.

+1 My center caps cover the spacers....so I would care less what color they are. You can get Spidertrax in black and there is another quality US Made brand (Spaced the name...thinks starts with a B)

If spacers need Loctite IMO you have bigger issues such as poor design, fit, etc. Needing Loctite on spacers means you need Loctite on your wheel lugs. Loctite has some areas of benefit/need IMO wheel lugs is not one of them (for 98% of users)
 
+1 My center caps cover the spacers....so I would care less what color they are. You can get Spidertrax in black and there is another quality US Made brand (Spaced the name...thinks starts with a B)

If spacers need Loctite IMO you have bigger issues such as poor design, fit, etc. Needing Loctite on spacers means you need Loctite on your wheel lugs. Loctite has some areas of benefit/need IMO wheel lugs is not one of them (for 98% of users)

Bora spacers. They make various sizes, US made and come in black. I generally only use loctite if it's specified for a particular install.
 
Whatever you do, do not buy non-hubcentric spacers. I made that mistake a while back and it shook my whole rig when driving it.
 
I'm wondering why non-hub centric spacers/wheels are such a big problem with these 4runners but not with jeeps? I've never ran hub centric anything on my 3 jeeps to date and they do not shake, nor does this happen to thousands of other jeep owners with non-hub centric wheels/spacers.

What's unique about the 4runner? Does it have something to do with the torque pattern on 6 lugs over 5 lugs (jeep)?
 
I'm wondering why non-hub centric spacers/wheels are such a big problem with these 4runners but not with jeeps? I've never ran hub centric anything on my 3 jeeps to date and they do not shake, nor does this happen to thousands of other jeep owners with non-hub centric wheels/spacers.

What's unique about the 4runner? Does it have something to do with the torque pattern on 6 lugs over 5 lugs (jeep)?

Some wheels line up with the lugs and others with the hub. So they won't mount flush causing a vibration. Just the way toyota designed it.
 
If spacers need Loctite IMO you have bigger issues such as poor design, fit, etc. Needing Loctite on spacers means you need Loctite on your wheel lugs. Loctite has some areas of benefit/need IMO wheel lugs is not one of them (for 98% of users)

The Spidertrax come with Red Loctite and the instructions say to use it so I use it.

On a side note there seems to be a "fear" of loctite on this forum. I use red and blue in my personal and professional life quite often. Never really had a problem loosening something up, even with red. Yeah it does restrict movement of the bolt or nut until it's off but that's its purpose. One place I know it's been beneficial is the VC gasket bolts. 2 years after doing them and no leaks and never a retorque. Blue on them. Just my $.02
 
Some wheels line up with the lugs and others with the hub. So they won't mount flush causing a vibration. Just the way toyota designed it.

Well jeeps are actually hub centric but most of us run lug centric wheels with tapered nuts with no issues cuz not many aftermarket jeep wheels are hub centric. I see alot of 4runner owners here switch to wheels that are lug centric with tapered nuts and they get vibes. It's odd.
 
Well jeeps are actually hub centric but most of us run lug centric wheels with tapered nuts with no issues cuz not many aftermarket jeep wheels are hub centric. I see alot of 4runner owners here switch to wheels that are lug centric with tapered nuts and they get vibes. It's odd.

Jeeps naturally ride like crap. They just cant feel the difference. IFS FTW. HAHA.
 

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