Wheel spacer advice needed

As a industrial engineer, let me tell you that who makes them affects the quality a lot.
Basically with the more expensive ones, you are paying for development and quality control, with cheap - self explanatory. Its kinda like AMD vs Intel.
 
As a industrial engineer, let me tell you that who makes them affects the quality a lot.
Basically with the more expensive ones, you are paying for development and quality control, with cheap - self explanatory. Its kinda like AMD vs Intel.

Question: who is the more expensive? AMD or Intel?

I've had plenty of experience with both which makes me confused cuz both failed......
 
These are the ones I have. Hubcentric and no wobble!!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/281765741294

Nice. May go this route. I mean it's not an overly complicated product.


"Vehicles studs cannot pass the face of the adapter
If the studs do pass the face of the adapter, you will need to grind/cut them shorter. (This only applies to 1.25" adapters or smaller)."

I'm assuming our studs are short enough to not have to grind them down?
 
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As a industrial engineer, let me tell you that who makes them affects the quality a lot.
Basically with the more expensive ones, you are paying for development and quality control, with cheap - self explanatory. Its kinda like AMD vs Intel.

This may be true but you cant compare R&D of a cpu to a wheel spacer. Industrial engineering does not compare to computer science. This is why you don't see knock off eBay processors.

You can easily take a quality spacer, reverse engineer and reproduce at the same quality at lower price.
 
I also vote going with the ebay spacers. I have them on front and rear, They fit great, theyre black, hubcentric, and come with acorn lugs.

Can't beat it for the money. I cant imagine paying spidertrack prices for simply machined metal.
 
I also vote going with the ebay spacers. I have them on front and rear, They fit great, theyre black, hubcentric, and come with acorn lugs.

Can't beat it for the money. I cant imagine paying spidertrack prices for simply machined metal.

Yeah I ran three sets of those ebay spacers (cjbargins) on my jeeps and they were just as good.
 
I'm getting ready to order some wheel adapters myself. To those running 1.25", are you having to grind down your studs at all?
 

(pic from google)

That would chip off in no time & look like crap.
To paint the Spidertrax anodized aluminum, you'd have to sand, primer & then paint, and rattle cans still chip easily. Or you can just buy Black spacers for less than the Trax.

If you modify & work on your truck a lot or break something on the trail, I wouldn't use Locktite on the spacers. I never have.
 
Any downside to not running matching spacers in the rear?

Nope except you'll look like a S-10/Blazer.

I know this is how it is with the Jeeps and I bet it's the same with these rigs but if you check the back side of the wheels and see recessed holes between each lug hole then it's ok to run 1" or .75" spacers without needing to cut the factory lugs. 1.25" is the most common size when it comes to wheel spacers because most factory wheel studs are not longer than that so there's no cutting needed.

If you run aftermarket steel wheels like soft-8's or such then 1.25" is needed for sure because the backside is flat.
 
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When it comes to something like wheel spacer which could cost you your life, I would spend the extra $100 and buy two sets of Spidertrax over no name Ebay. Just for the piece of mind. You are gambling your life and many others on the road over $100. Not to say that a Spidertrax unit couldnt fail, but it is made in the US by a company with a good reputation.
 

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