Wheel Spacers?? Tread Locker required???

NCSCOTT

New member
Just got my Spidertrax delivered. Can't wait to install them. Here is the BUT....

Discount Tire said they will not mount my tires/wheels to the vehicle if it has wheel spacers. They stated they can not properly install them on the vehicle with the spacers. They just put my Revo 2s on and I brought up that I was considering the spacers. They said I could bring the tires in to be balanced already off the vehicle. This would be possible but a huge P.I.T.A.

My question is can I install the Spacers safely without the thread locker if they are properly torqued to the vehicle and checked every Oil change. I do my own Maintenance and have a proper torque wrench. That way if I at least remove the spacers the day I plan to have the tires rebalanced I can still get Discount to service them and maintain the tire warranty. This is still a P.I.T.A. but at least I would not have to load the tire up into my other 4Runner and run them up there and back and be down a vehicle each time for part of the day.:bash:

Of course the other option is to return them and not install them at all...

What do Yall think. Sorry had to use that (Yall) I am in NC after all.:wink2:
 
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find a local garage that will mount the tires for you...problem solved...I did not use the thread locker and have not had a problem whatsoever...
 
I wouldn't give up yet... The Spidertrax are truly adaptors rather than spacers. In the your case they happen to adapt Toyota 6-lug to Toyota 6-lug. Most places have huge issues with spacers that use lengthened lugs and just sit 'free & loose' behind the rim.

I'd put them on and try another location and always refer to them as adaptors not spacers, better yet don't say a word.

:cheers:
 
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I just put on my Spidertrax and then had my new tires put on at Discount Tire and they didn't say a word about it. I think you need to get a second opinion...or go to a different Discount Tire.
By the way, the new Revo 2's are awesome.
 
Are there wheel spacers out there for the 4R that have lug extensions instead of having to worry about an extra set of lugs??? Like Racemax but not for BMWs
 
I recommend using loctite, I used it on mine, I'm thinking the spidertraxx might have even come with a small bottle/tube of loctite ( I ordered through Jason b).
 
Discount Tire WILL install tires on your car with Spidertrax. They will not touch a car that has "wheel spacers" installed, however Spidertrax are not "wheel spacers."

Rather, Spidertrax are "hub adapters" and Discount Tire should not have a problem working on your car. I had the same issue, but I called the Discount Tire corporate offices and they said it was ok. You just need to give the manager some **** about it and they will work on your car.

The difference between "wheel spacers" and "hub adapters" are that wheel spacers do not bolt on to your current hubs. They are just a donut that spaces your wheel further out from your hub. Hub adapters bolt onto your current hub and utilize new lugs.

I would not install the Spidertrax without Loctite (or something of the like), you want those bolts to stay on there as tight as possible so that you have no vibrations between the hub and the hub adapter. Do it right the first time and you'll be happy. It is a pain in the ass worrying about whether those bolts are staying tight.

Good luck and I hope this helps.
 
If I put on the Spidertrax, with the Loctite, then check and re-torque after driving a 100 miles, have I broken the Loctite seal or diminished its ability to work by re-torquing? (Ok I did that and the lugs on the SpiderTrax didn't move so I assume it is ok.)

Thanks
 
If I put on the Spidertrax, with the Loctite, then check and re-torque after driving a 100 miles, have I broken the Loctite seal or diminished its ability to work by re-torquing? (Ok I did that and the lugs on the SpiderTrax didn't move so I assume it is ok.)

Thanks
Yea I wonder that too...
 
i work at discount spidertrax and all pro are considered adaptors. we will work on those, not the sh1tty spacers. if they say they cant work on it after they already take off one wheel assembly. go out and explain to them that they are adapters and use same lug pattern. if they still dont understand they are idiots and go somewhere else, but over all the years ive worked there we have never had a new guy that had no clue about cars or truck, usually we have a bunch of car and truck enthusiasts that work there.
 
x2 I thought about that when I retorqued mine. If the loctite is doing its job shouldn't I not be able to get the nuts any tighter?

When I retorqued mine they seemed not to budge (though I wondered if a micro-turn would have been enough to break loctite seal, I don't think the lugs moved at all -- instant click from the wrench). If the lugs had turned a little I would have taken off and dumped a ton of loctite on them.
 
When I retorqued mine they seemed not to budge (though I wondered if a micro-turn would have been enough to break loctite seal, I don't think the lugs moved at all -- instant click from the wrench). If the lugs had turned a little I would have taken off and dumped a ton of loctite on them.

Yeah mine were the same way, but if you took them off and added more loctite wouldn't that mean they would need to be retorqued again later on?
 
In order to re-torque properly, the hubs/adapters should be cool. Lugs should be loosened, then re-tightened to the appropriate torque value, in sequence. You need to loosen the bolts first to achieve the proper torque value due to the differences between static and dynamic/kinetic friction, as static friction (which applies when tightening WITHOUT loosening first) is generally higher than dynamic/kinetic friction (which occurs when torquing a loosened bolt). Here's a good example of the differences between static and dynamic/kinetic friction using an automobile: Static & Kinetic Friction.

Re-torquing is necessary mostly due to the possibility of initial metal compression/elongation or thermal stresses affecting the hub adapters as they are breaking in. Once this happens (after the first 100 or so miles) it's not gonna happen again. I would recommend installing the Spidertraxx WITHOUT locktite first, running them for the specified mileage, then removing the lugs and re-torquing WITH the locktite.

For you guys that have tried re-torquing locktited lugs without loosening first, not really sure what you should do. Personally, I would loosen, chase the threads to remove the old locktite, and then re-torque with some fresh stuff. They will not have to be re-torqued after this.

Just my $0.02...
 
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