Wheel spacers.... what do you got?

i had 2" spacers with my 3rd gen for 70k with zero issues. did some good wheeling with no issues. I just got a 5th gen and now you all freaking me out that my wheel is going to fly off if i get spacers :mad:
 
I've been wheeling lifted trucks since 1994.

Spacers are purely cosmetic.

Flame suit on.

Hmmmm,, I question that. I would submit a wider stance would increase the forces necessary to induce a rollover. It would seem someone with significant physics skilz could formulate what changes with widening the stance of the truck would do for rollover stability. Something like this:


"In actual Physics, this subject of rotational effects is described in terms of something called "moments". A moment is a Force acting on an "arm" to cause a torque or a tendency to rotate. In this case, there is one moment that is due to the weight of the SUV, and in our example that moment is a Vector aimed toward the FRONT of the vehicle (don't ask!) of W x r which has a magnitude W * r * cos(θ). The moment that is due to the horizontal lateral force is a Vector aimed toward the REAR of the vehicle of F * r which has a magnitude F * r * cos(90° - θ) or F * r * sin(θ). In the situation of being just about to roll over, these two must be equal, or F * sin(θ) = W * cos(θ), or F * sin(θ) / cos(θ) = W, or F * tan(θ) = W. θ is the angle between the two red arrows shown in the two drawings above, and r is the actual (angled) distance between the center-of-gravity and the tire tread. If F is any greater than that amount, the vehicle will roll over.

An equivalent description in Physics considers that F acts to rotate the vehicle (to the right in our drawings) at a height of the center-of gravity (which is r * sin(θ); and the weight W acts to rotate the vehicle (to the left, around the outer, rightmost tire) at a horizontal distance of half the tire track (which is r * cos(θ). You can see that this gives the exact same equations.

Since the height of the center-of-gravity of a particular vehicle is known, as is its weight and its tire track width, F, the maximum sideways force before rollover is easily known for any vehicle."



Bottom line,, increase your F to avoid rollover. :)


.
 
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I have no problem with spacers functionally, but for like $250-350 more you can choose from hundreds of nice aluminum 17x8+ wheels online (I got mine from Amazon). Then, realistically, you could probably sell your stock wheels and recoup a lot of the difference. Even with installing the new tires, it would be very easy to drive off on an entirely new set of wheels for less than 250 more than the cost of spacers.

I am all for being cheap, and am super cheap myself, but I can't imagine being happier with the aesthetics of just spacers than a completely aftermarket set of wheels.

We all try to justify spacers and wider-set wheels for various stability reasons. I used to teach physics, so I understand the potential benefits. However, realistically, it is pretty obvious we really just make such choices for looks :P . So, unless you really want to keep it looking "stock" but with a slightly wider stance that only you will probably notice, you might as well go with aftermarket wheels for only a minimally larger investment.
 
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I have no problem with spacers functionally, but for like $250-350 more you can choose from hundreds of nice aluminum 17x8+ wheels online (I got mine from Amazon). Then, realistically, you could probably sell your stock wheels and recoup a lot of the difference. Even with installing the new tires, it would be very easy to drive off on an entirely new set of wheels for less than 250 more than the cost of spacers.

I am all for being cheap, and am super cheap myself, but I can't imagine being happier with the aesthetics of just spacers than a completely aftermarket set of wheels.

We all try to justify spacers and wider-set wheels for various stability reasons. However, it is pretty obvious we really just make such choices for looks [emoji14] . So, unless you really want to keep it looking "stock" but with a slightly wider stance that only you will probably notice, you might as well go with aftermarket wheels for a minimally larger investment.
I see your point and it's valid but there's also those who prefer running stock wheels and don't really like the look of what's offered in the aftermarket world. For those that want the wider stance with factory wheels spacers seem to be the only option.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
Hmmmm,, I question that. I would submit a wider stance would increase the forces necessary to induce a rollover. It would seem someone with significant physics skilz could formulate what changes with widening the stance of the truck would do for rollover stability. Something like this:


"In actual Physics, this subject of rotational effects is described in terms of something called "moments". A moment is a Force acting on an "arm" to cause a torque or a tendency to rotate. In this case, there is one moment that is due to the weight of the SUV, and in our example that moment is a Vector aimed toward the FRONT of the vehicle (don't ask!) of W x r which has a magnitude W * r * cos(θ). The moment that is due to the horizontal lateral force is a Vector aimed toward the REAR of the vehicle of F * r which has a magnitude F * r * cos(90° - θ) or F * r * sin(θ). In the situation of being just about to roll over, these two must be equal, or F * sin(θ) = W * cos(θ), or F * sin(θ) / cos(θ) = W, or F * tan(θ) = W. θ is the angle between the two red arrows shown in the two drawings above, and r is the actual (angled) distance between the center-of-gravity and the tire tread. If F is any greater than that amount, the vehicle will roll over.

An equivalent description in Physics considers that F acts to rotate the vehicle (to the right in our drawings) at a height of the center-of gravity (which is r * sin(θ); and the weight W acts to rotate the vehicle (to the left, around the outer, rightmost tire) at a horizontal distance of half the tire track (which is r * cos(θ). You can see that this gives the exact same equations.

Since the height of the center-of-gravity of a particular vehicle is known, as is its weight and its tire track width, F, the maximum sideways force before rollover is easily known for any vehicle."



Bottom line,, increase your F to avoid rollover. :)


.

I had to install a set of spidertrax because the Destination MTs I got were touching the suspension when they were on FJC steelies--they are larger and wider than just about any other 285/70R17 tires.
 
I have no problem with spacers functionally, but for like $250-350 more you can choose from hundreds of nice aluminum 17x8+ wheels online (I got mine from Amazon). Then, realistically, you could probably sell your stock wheels and recoup a lot of the difference. Even with installing the new tires, it would be very easy to drive off on an entirely new set of wheels for less than 250 more than the cost of spacers.

I am all for being cheap, and am super cheap myself, but I can't imagine being happier with the aesthetics of just spacers than a completely aftermarket set of wheels.

We all try to justify spacers and wider-set wheels for various stability reasons. I used to teach physics, so I understand the potential benefits. However, realistically, it is pretty obvious we really just make such choices for looks :P . So, unless you really want to keep it looking "stock" but with a slightly wider stance that only you will probably notice, you might as well go with aftermarket wheels for only a minimally larger investment.

But I like my stock wheels. :)


.
 
I wish to keep my 2016 TEP at stock height for now, but I would like to add spacers, I look at the 1.25" spidertrax and it seem to me that it's a bit too much, rocks and dirt would hit the doors and rear bumper.

I have bought TRP PRO wheels for summer and will keep my stock wheels for winter. My question is can I put a little less thicker than 1.25" , like .075" or 1" to have a better looking stance ?
 
So are you guys saying that there's 2 roads for a stanced car
Offset rims
normal rims with spacers

If i want some real wide tires/stance, what's the 'right' way to do it?
Is trimming normal, or if you do it the 'right' way, will it be fine.
 
I'm sure someone has made this point already.....but I'll do it again. I had 1.25" spacers all around on my 2011 with TRD Pro wheels and Bilstein 5100's at the high setting and Icon 2" lift springs in the rear. You will get some vibration. I had everything balanced and aligned. Twice. Until I removed them I never realized how much smoother the ride was without them. I loved the look, but I loved the smooth driving better.
 
I just got some new wheels and I am wanting to push out the back a bit more, maybe 1/2 inch, is there a spacer that I can use that would achieve this?
Also pushing the back out more would not cause any rubbing, is that a correct assumption? I would push the front out too, but I think it may rub.
If I do a 3\2 inch lift can I push the front and back out by 1.25 front and 1.5 inch back without rubbing?

Here is my current set up
20171115_073525.jpg
Fright.jpg

Thank you
 

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Most spacers with less than 1.25'' width don't have a hubcentric design and it is critical to have it IMO.:ohwell:
 
Been lucky enough with mine on both mine & son's 05 (knock on) ! Installed properly & checked on rotation muy bien !! Lenny great guy , also bought new studs & longer for fronts does it all !
 
I am planning on lifting my 2017 SR5 soon, and I just purchased a set of 18x9 +0 wheels and 275/65/18 tires.

Not sure what coils/shocks I will be going with, but I plan on going 3" and using JBA UCAs. When would I need to use spacers, vs. going with the body mount chop? Wouldnt spacers push the wheels out away from the frame/body mount and I can avoid doing that modification? Not sure if I will rub but any insight would be nice on which direction to go.
 
You don't ''need'' spacers.....they are to widen the track width which will get sucked inward by the lift. spacers will also increase the rub on the body mount due to the wider arc of the turning wheel and tire. I did a sawzall body mount trim and run the 1.25'' spacer for the even look of the tire and fender. You don't likely need a BMC if you don't run spacers.
 
What mods will I need to perform with 285 tires on trail rims if with spidertrax 1.25 spacers?

I already pushed the front fender liner as far as it would go and trimmed a corner of the bumper. I'm okay with modding the rear mud flap as well, but I don't want to start cutting up the body.
 

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