Wheel Well Coating

smallfry

smallfry

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What are you all using to coat the inside of your wheel wells?

The black spray-on material on inside of the rear wheel wells on my 4runner is coming off and I'm looking to respray it.
 
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3m rubberized undercoating works alright. I've found after a year it tends to harden and start to flake off.
Just an fyi
 
[MENTION=10182]smallfry[/MENTION] you are thread starting master :P I had enough trouble starting a build thread when I started on the forum lol. Rock on man!

Any way what I will be doing to preserve my clean southern truck against our winters is POR15 the entire under body including the wheel wells. I will be using their rubberized undercoating for the underside of the body and wells. The rest will get done in the rust preventative coating and then a top coat.
 
MTD said:
[MENTION=10182]smallfry[/MENTION] you are thread starting master :P I had enough trouble starting a build thread when I started on the forum lol. Rock on man!

Any way what I will be doing to preserve my clean southern truck against our winters is POR15 the entire under body including the wheel wells. I will be using their rubberized undercoating for the underside of the body and wells. The rest will get done in the rust preventative coating and then a top coat.
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POR15 makes undercoating in a can, but if you are planning to use POR15 rust prevention paint, you have to strip (sandblast preferably) all the paint to bare metal for it to do any good. Putting it over painted metal is a waste of money (and a LOT of it, since the way it works is to bond tightly with the metal), and it is VERY picky about preparation. It needs a rough surface (works best over rust!) or it will peel like electrical tape - sandblasting provides the best surface preparation. POR15 is made to paint over rusted metal to seal the metal so no oxygen can get to it and further rust, not for undercoating. From their instructions: 10. POR-15 should not be applied over other paints.

I haven't used their undercoating (but have used their paint - that's how I know what it does well and doesn't do well). I'd recommend 3M undercoating in the quart bottles and spray it on with a gun (for the wheel wells).
 
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98OzarksRunner said:
POR15 makes undercoating in a can, but if you are planning to use POR15 rust prevention paint, you have to strip (sandblast preferably) all the paint to bare metal for it to do any good. Putting it over painted metal is a waste of money (and a LOT of it, since the way it works is to bond tightly with the metal), and it is VERY picky about preparation. It needs a rough surface (works best over rust!) or it will peel like electrical tape - sandblasting provides the best surface preparation. POR15 is made to paint over rusted metal to seal the metal so no oxygen can get to it and further rust, not for undercoating. From their instructions: 10. POR-15 should not be applied over other paints.

I haven't used their undercoating (but have used their paint - that's how I know what it does well and doesn't do well). I'd recommend 3M undercoating in the quart bottles and spray it on with a gun (for the wheel wells).
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Yep I am aware of all the issues/risks of using por15, I do quite a bit of painting. You can't just apply the rust prevention over rust though, you need to use some kind of rust converter first (I use ospho). If you don't remove/convert the rust you risk trapping moisture in with the rust and making it worse...

I also should mention that I was only planning on using their rust prevention paint on areas that already have surface rust and then was going to under coat the rest. You are correct that it would be a waste to use por over the existing frame coating. I will just undercoat the rest with either 3m or the POR undercoating which I hear is good as well.
 
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I have a 2005 Toyota 4Runner and some of the wheel coating had come loose and a hole had rusted thru about where one of the mounts for the 3rd row seating is at. I found it by accident while looking up under the wheel well seeing a slight bulge and then poking it with my finger. The 4Runner has very little rust otherwise. I was going to post a thread about this with pictures but I have just signed up here and they won't let me make new post yet.
 
Go to imgur and post the photo there (its free no account required), then right click the image itself and select copy image URL, then go back to this thread and click the box with a mountain in it, that will make a pop up asking for image URL, then just paste (control v on windows and ios) in the URL. You wont see the photo until you post it.

I'm not a fan of painting over rust unless its in a hard to reach spot. Otherwise your just kicking a problem down the road and risking it getting worse. If its a big hole you'll have to cut out sheet metal and put new metal back and paint it. If it isn't too bad you might get away with sanding the rust out and using bondo to patch it. If its structure then replaing sheet metal is the safest way to persevere integrity.
 
Pyral said:
Go to imgur and post the photo there (its free no account required), then right click the image itself and select copy image URL, then go back to this thread and click the box with a mountain in it, that will make a pop up asking for image URL, then just paste (control v on windows and ios) in the URL. You wont see the photo until you post it.

I'm not a fan of painting over rust unless its in a hard to reach spot. Otherwise your just kicking a problem down the road and risking it getting worse. If its a big hole you'll have to cut out sheet metal and put new metal back and paint it. If it isn't too bad you might get away with sanding the rust out and using bondo to patch it. If its structure then replaing sheet metal is the safest way to persevere integrity.
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+1 for welding in a patch. Maybe first peeling away the rest of the coating to see what else is affected, because there's a chance it might not be located to just one area in that wheel well. The way I see it if you're gonna have to fix it, might as well go the full mile and ensure you never have to again - and with it being in the wheel well I could see a cheap fix coming back to haunt you very quickly once it rains or winter hits
It sounds like a much more daunting task than it is, like tubbing fenders but half the steps and complexity
 
How I do this is clean out all the entire wheel wheels weld patches if necessary. Paint seal the steel then raptor line the inner fender wells. :)

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 
POR can't handle UV exposure if I remember right. Dont know if the amount of direct sunshine the wheel well might get would count or not though.
 
repo said:
POR can't handle UV exposure if I remember right. Dont know if the amount of direct sunshine the wheel well might get would count or not though.
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If that's the case you could use it as a base coat and finish it off with something else perhaps? Don't see why that couldn't work but I'm no artist :wacko:
 
Devbot said:
If that's the case you could use it as a base coat and finish it off with something else perhaps? Don't see why that couldn't work but I'm no artist :wacko:
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Yeah you can top coat it but I think there's some extra prep work involved or you have to use their special paint, I can't remember would have to look it up. Not sure if rubberized stuff would adhere properly. When i get around to doing this myself I plan to remove the old seam sealant which is cracked and redo it before the rubberized coating.
 
With por 15 or kbs seal, you only have so much time for a top coat before you have to sand or rough it up to have the topcoat adhere.

Both don't have good uv protection in the product. At least from my experience with them in cloudy western PA.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 
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