Where can I get some LCA Camber adjustment bolts?

I

insaniak

New member
I took my 2005 4runner to Pep Boys to get an alignment after my lift and they weren't able to fully adjust my camber in the front because the bolts are too rusty apparently. They said that could adjust them if I got the four bolts replaced.

This is the alignment paper they gave me after showing the results.
It looks like front passenger tire got even worse after they touched it.
 

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fdbyrne said:
Rock auto for the greasable Moog replacements or OEM options at the local dealer or online.
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no the moogs are not a good choice for the LCA. the rear bolt causes slop in the bushing and frame allowing the arm to move around and clank. the best bet is to get a new set of OEM.
 
First off, good luck on the replacement of the bolts, this is going to be a full weekend activity if yours are anything like mine were. The Caster and camber bolts are seized to the bushings. The bushings have an inner steel sleeve and your bolts have literally 'welded' themselves with rust to the bushing. If I had to guess you will want to purchase all the OEM bushings as well. I was not able to salvage them. Had to use a cut off wheel on the caster and camber bolts to get the LCA to drop. Mind you, you may be lucky and they could come out with ease...doubtful though.

Not sure what the other guy is saying about the MOOG bolts, I have had no issue with them, except for the fact Rock Auto has the tendency to send you the wrong products sometimes.

Best of luck to ya!
 
VA4Runner09 said:
First off, good luck on the replacement of the bolts, this is going to be a full weekend activity if yours are anything like mine were. The Caster and camber bolts are seized to the bushings. The bushings have an inner steel sleeve and your bolts have literally 'welded' themselves with rust to the bushing. If I had to guess you will want to purchase all the OEM bushings as well. I was not able to salvage them. Had to use a cut off wheel on the caster and camber bolts to get the LCA to drop. Mind you, you may be lucky and they could come out with ease...doubtful though.

Not sure what the other guy is saying about the MOOG bolts, I have had no issue with them, except for the fact Rock Auto has the tendency to send you the wrong products sometimes.

Best of luck to ya!
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Me too. Word for word.
 
VA4Runner09 said:
First off, good luck on the replacement of the bolts, this is going to be a full weekend activity if yours are anything like mine were. The Caster and camber bolts are seized to the bushings. The bushings have an inner steel sleeve and your bolts have literally 'welded' themselves with rust to the bushing. If I had to guess you will want to purchase all the OEM bushings as well. I was not able to salvage them. Had to use a cut off wheel on the caster and camber bolts to get the LCA to drop. Mind you, you may be lucky and they could come out with ease...doubtful though.

Not sure what the other guy is saying about the MOOG bolts, I have had no issue with them, except for the fact Rock Auto has the tendency to send you the wrong products sometimes.

Best of luck to ya!
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the way the MOOG bolts are for the cam adjusters allows the LCA to wallow out and clank. its a single size all the way through, the oem has slight change in size along its length. there is a big thread somewhere about it all. it might be in one of the longterm clank issue threads. a majority of the issues were resolved by putting an OEM bolt in the rear bushing. when i do LCAs in a few weeks im gonna go with new OEM LCAs and bolts.
 
CruzadoBlanco said:
the way the MOOG bolts are for the cam adjusters allows the LCA to wallow out and clank. its a single size all the way through, the oem has slight change in size along its length. there is a big thread somewhere about it all. it might be in one of the longterm clank issue threads. a majority of the issues were resolved by putting an OEM bolt in the rear bushing. when i do LCAs in a few weeks im gonna go with new OEM LCAs and bolts.
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Not sure man. I've been rockin them for 20-30,000 miles and 0 clanking. I've had 0 issues with them. Personally will never go back to OEM because of the nightmare of them getting seized.
 
I'm one of the anti-moogers too. Combination of their bolts and their bushings made an awful lot play and sounds from the rear location. OEM with antiseize is the best way to go (although stupid $$ in comparison).

Edit: Only a few complaints I could find on 4runners but check out the myriads of threads on the subject from the Tacoma guys and you'll see it's a dead horse. OEM.
 
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VA4Runner09 said:
Not sure man. I've been rockin them for 20-30,000 miles and 0 clanking. I've had 0 issues with them. Personally will never go back to OEM because of the nightmare of them getting seized.
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maybe you got lucky. but ive seen a good amount of people not happy with the fit and finish of the moog parts for our LCAs
 
I wonder if thats the issue Im having. No matter how many times I get the truck aligned it seems as though the LCA is cock eyed and will bind them pop loose when I turn at almost full lock. I have the moogs on there. I just thought that the shop cant get it into specs without having the LCA that out of wack.
 
If you live anywhere with mild to harsher winters then more than likely their seized! I did all mine last year and yes they are a PITA especially when you don't expect to run into it! Even my buddy's were seized on his 5th gen that's only a few years old. Mine have been fine since last year, just use anti seize on all the cam bolts and sleeves and you'll be good. I just did my LCA's today and everything came off fine.
 
Velonici said:
I wonder if thats the issue Im having. No matter how many times I get the truck aligned it seems as though the LCA is cock eyed and will bind them pop loose when I turn at almost full lock. I have the moogs on there. I just thought that the shop cant get it into specs without having the LCA that out of wack.
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Yes, full lock or weird loading off road made mine pop all the time. The rear of the LCA does not stay in place with Moogs.
 
dkyleb said:
Mine still do this, even after switching to OEM. I think it may be a bushing issue...
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didnt you have the moogs at first in yours and then switch them out or something like that? i feel like i read that somewhere. you might have wallowed the bushing out.
 
CruzadoBlanco said:
didnt you have the moogs at first in yours and then switch them out or something like that? i feel like i read that somewhere. you might have wallowed the bushing out.
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I replaced my ruined OE bushings with Moog and also used Moog cam bolts front and rear. I was getting some clunking, which I noticed was axial play on the rearward cam. I then replaced it with a Toyota OEM one. I still have some clunking. The Moog one was starting to round out too.


What do you mean by wallowing out?
 
Yes my moog bushings clunk with both moog bolts (which I believe ruined the bushings) and clunk with OEM bolts. I have new arms to put on to run with OEM bolts only just haven't gotten to it yet. Weather too nice
 
Can the oem cam bolts be cut out with standard 4" cutting wheels on my grinder or do I need something harder?

Local shops want $500 to replace all 4 control arms - labour only. Starting to debate with myself that it's money well spent.
 
I couldn't get a standard size cutter wheel all the way through. I started with one then finished with a Sawzall. It's hardened metal that you're cutting through so it takes good blades and you'll go through a few of them.
 
Thanks for the info.

Do the bolts seize to the cam sleeves or do the cam sleeves seize to the bushing sleeve?
 
On mine they all seized together on the rear bolts, bolt, cam sleeve on bolt, and bolt to the bushing too! Front bolts came loose from the bushings fine once I cut the ends off. I found that "good" blades like Milwaukee Torch brand didn't help much, and I ended up using a harbor freight fine toothed hack saw blade broken in half and jammed into the sawzall at low speed walked right through them in 1/10th of the time and even better savings for cost. (After I burned $40 in blades up)
 
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