where is this oil coming from?
- Thread starter keeperofgoal
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LittleCaesar
New member
+1 on the crank seal.....
keeperofgoal
New member
thanks for the replies.
yeah my valve covers are leaking I just tightened up all the bolts its much better for now.
I'm gonna do a timing job soon so Ill find out if its the crank seal.
on a completely unrelated note I need a new rear driveshaft and saw this on camelback's website is it the right part? cause it seems like a good deal. I don't even know if they ship to Canada but ill hop the border if not.
1995-2004 Toyota Drive Shaft 37140-60300 | Camelback Toyota Parts
phattyduck
Elite Member
That looks like it is the front, not rear shaft.
Maybe consider Tom Woods or other aftermarket supplier as another option.
-Charlie
Malcolm99
Member
That lip around the bottom of the block/oil pan will collect oil from a valve cover leak, could also be the dip stick tube oring.
I wouldn't bother with an aftermarket rear shaft except maybe Tom woods, I tried an aftermarket shaft with spicer joints and haven't been impressed, after 2000km I have play in the centre ujoint, seems out of balance out of the box and had no grease in the centering ball upon receipt, the centre ball requires a needle greaser and is not in a great position to be greased, it has cost me thousands in parts and days/weeks of my time trying to narrow down a bad new aftermarket driveshaft and seller offers no support or warranty as it would have to shipped back to the states and I've exceeded my 90 day warranty replacing other parts narrowing it down to the aftermarket driveshaft even though I requested a replacement the same day I got and returned it and gotten same shaft back greased... I Just ordered a OEM shaft at $1100 CAD and the aftermarket was $700 so that alone has cost me $2000 after taxes no labour luckily, but lots of beer and cursing. Use your VIN to get the right length shaft, there are 3 different propeller shafts for different tcase and trans applications.
I wouldn't bother with an aftermarket rear shaft except maybe Tom woods, I tried an aftermarket shaft with spicer joints and haven't been impressed, after 2000km I have play in the centre ujoint, seems out of balance out of the box and had no grease in the centering ball upon receipt, the centre ball requires a needle greaser and is not in a great position to be greased, it has cost me thousands in parts and days/weeks of my time trying to narrow down a bad new aftermarket driveshaft and seller offers no support or warranty as it would have to shipped back to the states and I've exceeded my 90 day warranty replacing other parts narrowing it down to the aftermarket driveshaft even though I requested a replacement the same day I got and returned it and gotten same shaft back greased... I Just ordered a OEM shaft at $1100 CAD and the aftermarket was $700 so that alone has cost me $2000 after taxes no labour luckily, but lots of beer and cursing. Use your VIN to get the right length shaft, there are 3 different propeller shafts for different tcase and trans applications.
keeperofgoal
New member
I will go oem do it right do it once and use the website Kanoe suggested. Thank you cause dealers around here are so mean on pricing like I know I have nowhere else to go but come on! now I do have somewhere else to go HA! Driveshaft is actually a ways down the list of things to be done this truck was taken care of for the first bit of its life and completely neglected til I got it. cheap aftermarket parts, misfires, leaks, vibes, timing 2+ times overdue, shitty wiring for stuff I don't even know what is for, dash not aligned properly, oversized LT duratracs no lift like wtf its a midsize SUV not a 1/2 ton truck makes it ride awful and I don't think there was much offroading done with that shit Monroe suspension. Luckily all things I can take care of. I am determined to bring back to good health as many of these things as possible!
It pays to be nice at the stealership to certain workers sympathetic to your search for reasonably pricing.
Been getting crazy pricing at my local. Mad at the price structure the counter guys quote. But, been nice to the counter guy as he is just doing his job and following the stealership rules.
One day I caught the same certain counter guy 5 min before closing, not too many people around. I get a quote for a key fob, $180. Of course I balk at the price.
Counter guy looks around, and whispers to me to log on to the stealership online store/parts. He says to order online and choose pick up local, $79+tax for the same fob. No additional fees for local pick up.
And employees no soposed to alert customers that alternative way of purchasing.
Been getting crazy pricing at my local. Mad at the price structure the counter guys quote. But, been nice to the counter guy as he is just doing his job and following the stealership rules.
One day I caught the same certain counter guy 5 min before closing, not too many people around. I get a quote for a key fob, $180. Of course I balk at the price.
Counter guy looks around, and whispers to me to log on to the stealership online store/parts. He says to order online and choose pick up local, $79+tax for the same fob. No additional fees for local pick up.
And employees no soposed to alert customers that alternative way of purchasing.
plcfcng
Member
I would pull the skid pans then take it to a coin op car wash that allows engine cleaning blast off all the years of crud then drive it around for a bit and see where the leak is coming from. You will be much happier when you go to work on it after doing this. Bring a creeper some eye protection I start by looking at the underside before I start spraying. When I start spraying I start at the bottom work my way to the top avoid the alternator, exhaust and the radiator. After the money runs out let it drip for a few minutes recheck to see any areas you missed. Don't forget the skid pans they will need a good hosing too. From the looks of the lower radiator hose you may want to consider doing all the coolant hoses and thermostat while your there I am also wondering how the timing belt is ? :reddance:
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keeperofgoal
New member
It is my valve cover gaskets they are original after 200k and have probably been leaking for the last 100k+. its weird that part I wiped off with my finger is no longer visible after just a bit of driving but I never notice it on my dipstick. it seems like a pretty bad leak.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Do the easy fixes, dipstick o-ring (it's literally one 10mm bolt and the whole thing wiggles out) tighten down the valve covers if they are leaking or replace.
Changing the crankshaft seal is not a simple job. Also, that oil leak is not hurting anything at all and does not affect the reliability or drivability of the vehicle and is a common leak point. Some even leak from the oil pan, which requires either the engine to be pulled or the entire front end taken off just to drop the pan. If you want another opinion, do the easy stuff and things you were going to change anyway and leave that leak alone.
Changing the crankshaft seal is not a simple job. Also, that oil leak is not hurting anything at all and does not affect the reliability or drivability of the vehicle and is a common leak point. Some even leak from the oil pan, which requires either the engine to be pulled or the entire front end taken off just to drop the pan. If you want another opinion, do the easy stuff and things you were going to change anyway and leave that leak alone.
another small part, if replacing valve cover gaskets, is the oil fill cap has a rubber gasket as well. When I did my last vc gaskets, I replaced that gasket as well as the dipstick o ring. Both are not major leak makers, but figured Id replace them anyway while I was in it. The old oil fill one was hard as a rock and at first I thought it was plastic and part of the molded plastic cap. I dont have the part # handy.
I agree with above. I know a lot of people dont change them till they leak. My rig uses no oil yet its hard for me to imagine they are not seeping a little right now. My next belt is due in about 20k miles, which is also at 295k. It will get it done sooner. It will get new seals Will also do oil cooler and the hoses related, as the parts are now 20+ years old and nearly 300k miles.
Similar, when doing upcoming vc gasket job and all that is opened up, any water hose under intake etc, ( hard to get to) is getting replaced, as those too are very old.
